superhawk996

Never heard of one with that kinda voltage, whatcha building? I think all it would take is some diodes to make something that would give you 120v DC from an AC outlet. DC is deadly stuff so be careful whichever route you take, I wanna say 40v is about the 'safe' limit with DC but don't recall for sure.

My first Bird was a '97 and when I bought it I thought the carbs were gonna need to be cleaned out, the idle acted exactly as if the idle jets were plugged up. When I opened the airbox and looked into the carbs the butterflies were very obviously all over the place. One was way open, another looked about normalish, two were pretty much closed so it was basically idling on 1 1/2 or 2 cylinders. I'd love to meet the genius who did that to them, I can't imagine it just happened on its own. As much as it bugged me it also helped me get a smokin deal on it ($1500) so I kinda thank him. I first eye ball set them to see if that was gonna cure the idle and it seemed to do the trick. I didn't have a manometer and wanted to get it rideable so I used a piece of wire as a feeler gauge to set them figuring it should get them close enough to start with. It ran perfectly so I never bothered to get a manometer. It would have been interesting to see how close to perfect the feeler gauge method got them, let me know if anyone's tried it.

And after re-thinking, my last statement implies that the factory just sets them to X turns out and AFAIK they don't. They just lock people out from fucking with them by installing the tamper resistant plugs. I believe it's only done because the EPA mandates that they not be adjustable. Here's the procedure from the Honda manual. It's pretty interesting and I assume if they went to these lengths it's because they found that it's the best way. With cars the commonly accepted "right" way was using metered propane injection to measure the idle change. I've always used my way from my previous post on every engine and haven't found a need to do differently even on emissions controlled & tested engines.

People are fucking you by mixing up synchronization adjustment with air/fuel mixture adjustment. The vacuum set is for sync, not for air/fuel, tho in good hands the vacuum readings could work. Idle drop was mentioned so I'll tell you what I do. After all other adjustments are good and the last thing is air/fuel you start with all carbs set to "X" turns out and a fully warmed motor. You then screw the them in a 1/2 turn at a time 'till the idle drops, then back out a 1/4 or so and find the best spot for it and move to the next screw. Once you've done them all go back through them and verify that each is at a setting that gives the highest idle or a hair leaner than highest idle if you want the cleanest burn. There is absolutely no way to achieve a proper mix with "X" number of turns out that worked for someone else. Altitude, mods, fuel quality, etc. will play in. Anyone who tells you that "X" number of turns out gives the right mix is ignorant and you should purge that information from your brain. If one setting worked there would be no adjustment ability, it would just be locked in.....as they are from the factory which works for a clean burn on a stock bike in most cases.

It's a smokin deal. I kept staring at them, wanted to buy, but have no good reason to. Anyone with a use for them would be a fool not to.

The clutch or rod can't cause a gear to pop out. If the clutch were dragging and you weren't shifting carefully it could cause the damage that then causes the gear to pop, but fixing the clutch won't fix the gears.

Get Chinese hoses, maybe they'll serve as a pressure fuse and save the radiator

I'm shocked at the price, I'da figured close to double. Is that OE or aftermarket?

There's a guy that used to show up to the local dragstrip that had these on his bike and they worked great. I think they were actuated with an air cylinder but not sure. From memory it was basically a U shaped tube with wheels on the ends mounted behind the shock and when retracted they just pivoted rearward 90 degrees or so. He had no legs so someone would put him on the bike and off he went. Bastard always beat me, the weight advantage gave him a leg up on the competition. It seems it wouldn't be terribly hard to fab up.

It would be interesting to know if anyone's had a hose blow out. It happens plenty on cars, but never heard of it with a bike.

Welcome. I've seen a few set-ups like this and it's pretty cool. I hope you find a guy and get back to enjoying your Bird.

Talk to a dealer. I've read of a few of these units having that issue and there may be a free repair, kinda like a recall but without notifications sent out, I think it's called a repair campaign. If not, maybe a call to corporate would work. I also read of one guy that whacked the pedal with his heel a few times when it would stick and it would then work for a while. If it'll free up, then bleed it out maybe it'll fix it. Maybe smack the ABS unit with a small hammer if the pedal won't free it up. If it'll free up I'd go out and do some intentional hard braking to activate the ABS and get shit moving in there, then bleed it to flush out any corrosion debris. It's unlikely clogged in the typical sense of stuff getting into it, I'm guessing moisture and lack of activation lead to a stuck valve. If it works I'd add doing a 'lock up' to my regular riding routine to keep it from sticking again, it's also good practice to know what it feels like. Tho deleting it may hurt resale value, it probably won't drop it by $1,300 and some people might even find it a bonus since it appears to be a troublesome unit.

Any solvent put into a brake system is likely to ruin all rubber seals. There are some recalls on the rear brake system for sticking pedal and dragging brake, have they been done?

If the vibes started immediately after work was done to it you should take it back.

Tire or chain here too.

Well then, you're smarter than you look. tho I've never seen you.

The tri-y headers that mate close to the head are done for ease of installation/clearance and low cost, not really great for performance. They're a low buck easy option to get something that's a little better flowing and much lighter than an iron log manifold. In cases where the stock manifold is super shitty anything will be an improvement, but compared to something like what's on the Bird they'd be a performance killer.

Every Bird header I've paid attention to is tri-Y including the stocker.

You could probably pop a hanger or two off so it'll droop away from the body to paint it.

The little I've read says otherwise, but I guess it depends on where you're having wear.

Has anyone done a 520 conversion on the Bird? It's worth a little bit of performance and supposedly there are more sprocket options, with or without bling.

Paint is easily removed if you don't like it. What I think would be cool would be a black chrome kinda finish. In my theory if you mixed a small amount of black, or other color, into clear you could basically tint the SS instead of fully covering it. Another thought would be to color match it to the wheels. Keep in mind that it'll probably need to be hight heat paint. Another thought would be to chop the pipe and not have the tips sticking out.

Jalapeno infused from Olive Hill Farm to be specific, but they all work for different applications.

My Walmart stopped carrying the 15-50 long ago, sucks. I just realized I might be able to 'ship to store', I should look into that.

I assume you mean a nut with a 12mm head and not actually a 12mm nut? No metric hardware fits properly with sae nor vise-versa. Some will thread on, but will be loose or too tight and the thread pitch would be off. Nothing about that mount makes me think 12mm, 8mm looks about right. If you're looking for a nut with a 12mm head it's probably an 8mm nut which is very close to 5/16" which would generally have a 1/2" hex. Closest sae to 12 would be 1/2", 1/2" being closer to 13mm than 12mm. So you likely need an M8X1.25 nut, 1.25 being the most common thread pitch for M8 hardware and a very common size you can find anywhere.