demon

That sucks Nik. You put a lot of work into that deck just to have Mother Nature fuck with you on the last step.

Once you're down to the last 1/8" it will wear faster than the first 1/8". Why it does this, I don't know but it sure does go fast at the last. I'd stick a new one on there just to be safe.

I've run an Avon front with a Dunlop rear. I didn't have any problems. The biggest thing is to not put a pure sport tire on the rear with a sport touring on the front. You always want to make sure the front has as much or more grip than the rear. A rear slide is easier to control and get out of than a front is.

When you're up in the twisties having a good time, you're gonna wear down the sides while heeled over. When you're accelerating out of the corners, and there's plenty of them, you'll wear the mid-side to center.

It's talking about the wax valve unit. It controls the high idle when cold

You need to take into account that the riding at SEXXT is quite rough on tires. Rougher than slabbing it. You might be fine, but don't be surprized if it's completely shot when you get home.

Uuuuhhh, NO. At redline in 6th with an 18 tooth front, you're at the 200 mph mark. You'll need a bit more power to rev it out with an 18 on the front like Northman has done, and it ain't cheap is it Chris?

Nitrous, big bore kits, turbo, etc. If you want more power, you gots to pay to play.

There are some differences in the carcas and thickness of the tire itself. The "B" rated tire has a carcas that doesn't produce as much heat at sustained high speed. I think swampnut tried them and prefers the non "B" rated tire. I'm running the 45/46 combo in the non "B" rated tire and haven't had a single problem out of them.

Eat a few big macs and lift some weights. Get a little more than 130lbs on that bolt and you should break it loose. Oh, the headers are stainless steel

If I take the wheel off myself and run it up to the stealer, they charge me $25 to mount and balance. That's not a bad price at all to remove the wheel, put a tire on, and remount the wheel including the price of the tire.

Just polish that bitch Louie.

wasn't me, think it was Tim.

So, did you put on an aftermarket front sprocket or stick with the stock damped one? The aftermarket ones don't have the rubber damper as stated and make more noise.

feels a bit quicker too doesn't it. I've got 16/46 on mine and think I hit high 160's on top but it gets there quicker

The LCL conversion involves a real "handlebar". You mount some bosses on the tripple clamp and put an old style superbike bend handlebar on it. It requires new brake and clutch lines to work. Really raises the bars and reduced reach. Looks kinda funny though :wink:

You can always put a piece of tape on the fairing where they rub. I put a terrycloth towel under the strap as well. What am I talking about, I've only trailered my bike once since I've had it.

I gotta agree with BDAZ XX on this one. Regearing will give you the most bang for your buck on the XX. I've went down 1 tooth in front and up 1 on back for a 16/46 gear. My bike will still hit high 160's but it gets there quicker. It's a handfull in first though.

I've had luck with the mentioned 2x4 with a small jack under my oil pan to lift the front. I put a little hydraulic jack under there and place a piece of wood between the jack and the pan.

Another thing, is it a California spec bike with the catylists in the exhaust and oxygen sensor? That might have something to do with it.

It's a stability issue. They will recommend the rear to have 4 points of contact. You can use a piece of wood under the centerstand to gain some rear tire clearance and use that instead of the pit bull rear stand. I would recommend a 2x4 about a foot wider on each side and placing some eye bolts in it. Use a tie down strap on each side attached to the eye bolts secured to the peg brackets for stability. Don't know if you've got children running through your garage like I do, but stability is a major issue with a hyperactive 8 year old son.

for the leak at the junction, get a little clear silicone and put it on the pipe before install. Slip the other pipe over it and no problems and no mess either. A lot of aftermarket exhaust makers suggest this when installing pipes.

ditto on that. You could be getting a vacuum lock on the fuel. Pop the cap and see if you hear a slight rush of air into the tank. If you can, seafoam cleaner probably wouldn't be a bad idea at all. That old with that few miles says to me that it wasn't ridden much.

Nice. Love the look of the shotgun two bros.

Sounds like you've been to NEXXT