demon

Don't worry, you won't like the 205 after a few thousand miles anyway. I'd put the 208 on front pronto. Like northman said, the 208 is a softer compound and you'll loose traction on the front before the rear.

I under stand completely. Nothing like it a 5am to get the juices flowing.

Inverted forks just aren't worth the effort or cost unless you're having to replace the forks anyway. I could think of better things to do with a couple grand for forks.

Look above, oh new one. The XX gods are smiling upon you. Not automatic. 8)

Now remember, only the carbed bikes have 2 bulbs side by side. Integrators won't work very well on FI bikes with the stacked tail lights.

I like the Avons and don't have the dreaded decel wobble.

That blue and yellow "tool" is my baby restraining device. She helps me when I need a hand. 8) Concrete should be poured within the next couple weeks, depending on the weather.

You can cut the lower fender pretty easily with a utility knife. Score it using a ruler or another sturdy guide type device (on the good surface you want to keep) and then keep at it. It doesn't have the rough edges that a hacksaw will leave.

If you're gonna have the forks off the bike to do the spring install, I say do it. They'll be off and easy to do now rather than having to remove them later and doing it anyway. Cheap insurance.

I don't feel like typing all this shit again, so I quoted myself From your other fork posting

I wouldn't put the stock shims back in them upon new install. You might put them in after a few thousand miles and the pads are wore down some.

I didn't run a centerstand for a long time but had one at the house. You don't have to hook up the springs to work on it, just the two mounting bolts. I put mine back on when I put a stock header and slipons back on the bike after getting rid of my single sided exhaust.

Me either Nik. Going to a metalic pad from now on. I have to be careful when I wash the bike not to get aggressive leaving the driveway :shock:

The spray K&N oil is the only way to go. A hair dryer works wonders

Did I say this already, Galfer Greens suck major ass in the rain. I don't care if you've got the grip of King Kong, they almost feel wooden when wet. These things absorb water (carbon kevlar, not metalic) and take forever to dry out. When riding in the rain, I have to keep slight pressure on the front brake at all times to make sure they are heating up and that still doesn't work that well.

You might contact vedors of the Performance Machine wheels and see if they have any sprockets in stock. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/common/Frontpage.jsp http://lockhartphilips.com http://www.bikersimage.com/products/pm_spo...bike_wheels.htm

How's your slack in the chain? that would cause a back and forth jerk. 1" to 1 1/2" is best on the slack of the chain. I'd check your chain slack in multiple places as well. If you've done a lot of dragracing with it, you might want to check your cush drive in the rear wheel as well.

ditto on the chain. How many miles on it?

I think Jaws sells some plates that go between the aftermarket signals and the fender. One thing you might want to do is to rotate the signals up a little for a straighter shot.

Since I injured my knee, I've went down from 245 lbs (fat ass) down to 230 lbs. No changes in lifestyle or anything. My physical therapists say that sometimes this happens after a significant injury. I need to get down to 200, so I guess I'll hurt myself this winter after riding season and loose some more weight.

:stupidsign:

You might contact Louie (partmonster) for it as well. Gotta keep in house and I think he's the same if not a little cheaper than Ron Ayers.

I'll second that idea. We have a 2.4Ghz phone and I can talk clearly in the garage, in the yard, and over at the neighbor's house with it.

Dealer will probably want $600 for it. Like Joe said, Ron Ayers, they're cheaper than the dealer. Think they go for like $400 from there.

Those BMW sport grips look good. Are they firm or soft?