demon

If you're running slip-ons, you shouldn't have a problem at all. The FI bikes run rich when you take the stock cans off and put aftermarket ones on. Might actually make it run better and lean it out a little.

trurotor wrote: With 2 1/2" off your pan and extra oil in her, you're not worried about your rotating assembly (rods and crank) coming too close to the oil in the reduced sump are you? That might cause some damage at high RPM not to mention reduced power due to the drag of the parts in the oil. Can't be good on it unless you've done something else to your sump in the pan to add space for the extra oil.

OK, I admit it. I'm a Lazy Slacker. I'll go out in the morning and pop a couple pics. It's not done yet. All that it needed to be functioning is the electircal, garage doors, extending the driveway, gutters (going on next week), and my workbench/cabinets/storage type stuff as well as transferring the man items over. Oh, and by the way, it's General Hospital not Days of Our Lives.

So how do you like them? I still need to cut some thread off of my rear brake master cylinder to move the lever down some more. I haven't been able to ride since I installed mine and they seem pretty comfy sitting in the garage.

I'm doing the front springs at the same time I do the rear shock. Thought about doing racetech valves, but I'm going to get a feel for the springs with the thinner oil first.

Rales, yours will be just like mine. It's a speedlink from Schnitz. I had to wait for a couple weeks for them (speedlink) to make it and it was on back order. I really like mine.

I ride rollercoasters here in TN as well. I haven't had any trouble at all out of it. I keep a close look at it though. If it looks like it's starting to stress it'll come off in a heartbeat. It's very well made IMHO and would recommend it to anyone. I've been 2 up with it and no problems. I had to cut about 1/2" of the threaded rod off the end to clear my centerstand though. It probably took about an inch of lowering capability off of it. right now it's set where the tire is about 1/4" off the ground on the centerstand with the forks dropped about 3/8" in the tripples for quicker steering.

The pics on the bike are lost with the old computer that crashed on me. If you would like me to take another couple pics of it Randy, I'd be glad to and get them up here later today.

http://secure.cartsvr.net/catalogs/catalog...&showprevnext=1 This is the one that I have from Schnitz Racing. It is very beefy. The mounting holes are made to accept the stock bearings out of the stock dogbone instead of the brass bearings some others use. The pic doesn't do it justice. It takes a 15/16" wrench to adjust the nuts and everything is aluminum or stainless. I use it to lower my bird when dragracing, but as a side benefit it also raises higher than stock as well. No more need for shims. There is a clearance issue with it though. If you run the centerstand, you'll have to cut off about 1/2" of the threaded rod to clear the bar on the stand. It won't lower it as much, but I can run my centerstand.

Yea, it is a funny one. Got everyone riled up. Flaming troll alert. I bet the middle aged drunk could probably figure out how to slide some fork tubes up in the tripples :roll:

I use a strap and fully adjustable dogbone on mine. Put the strap under the lines behind the steering head. I leave my strap on the bike all the time and a wrench for the rear link. Never know when the need arises.

Like Furbird said, run them under the lines behind the steering head. I used to have some pics of mine on here run that way, but Photoisland isn't around any more and I didn't keep them at home. Do not attach the left side (driver side in a car) to the caliper because of the secondary master cylinder there. You're rear brake would be applied every time you strap it down. Use the upper reflector mounting bolt or the bolt for the secondary master cylinder pivot. I use the reflector bolt. On the right, mount it on the upper caliper bolt.

That ASS looks good Jason. Like the detail work.

Erion has 2 different kinds of cams for the bird. One set is a drop in replacement with different valve opening duration. The other set is the higher lift with different duration. If you go the higher lift route, like northman said, be sure to check the clearances or you might smack a piston.

Krypt Keeper has some. You might PM him if he doesn't reply.

My pipes don't have any residue on them at all. I mean at all. It's been run for maybe an hour total since the new slip-ons were attached. I'm going with the mothers approach. Hasn't failed me in the past.

Tired of the D&D's already Jason?

I replaced both my stock sprockets with aftermarket ones at about 8K on the stock chain. No trouble so far and everything is wearing nicely. I'd say just change the sprockets and go with it.

http://www.bikersoracle.com/jaws/exhaust.htm Here ya go. The inside of the can is complicated from the factory. No wonder slip-ons weigh so much less.

Think Zee's looking for a stealthy pipe. Nothing very loud but deeper than stock. He rode mine the other day with the baffles out and mine was a bit too loud for his tastes. We put the baffles and plugs back in and he liked it. With my baffles and plugs in, it's louder than stock but not as loud as most aftermarket cans. Over on the BIRD site in England they have a can autopsey where they cut the stock cans apart. I'll go and fetch a link for it. Kinda cool.

Goo Gone will work great. Get a smaller tank protector, or apply one and paint your wings onto it and clear it.

Perhaps paint, that would work, perhaps. Don't let the fundage go to anything else but bike stuff, you've earned it.

I like the concept of dual compound tires. Something hard in the center and sticky as hell on the sides. Too bad the hardest compound with the Pilot Race still probably won't last 2000 miles on the street with the bird.

That's called break-in. As long as there's nothing big in it, you're fine.

Now you've freed up some funds for a shock K9 We only need a couple more to get the magical max discount. You know you want to.