flyv65

So is there any reason to think that *any* of the new sport-touring tires will last longer than the others? I had thought to try the Pilot roads of Roadtecs next, but if they're just gonna wind up melting in 4k miles I'll stick with the Avons. Bryan...I know our road surfaces suck, but still...

Hmmmm, on one of my last V65's I put in a K&N filter w/out re-jetting or changing the exhaust-and had EXACTLY the same thing happen. The bike was flowing way too much air so it would bog like a sunuva bitch below 5500...and I had to spin way up to launch at lights. Re-jetting was required. Bryan...got fuel injection now...

I'm on my second set of 45/46's (after a set of 35/36's, two sets of M-1's, and the original BT56's)-and these are the best street tire I've had on so far. The Sportecs were *slightly* softer on rough roads, but didn't stick any better (at double-the-speed-limit speeds), and they wore out waaay too fast. I haven't noticed any swaying with the rear tire in high winds (and we get them, occaissionally in CO), but I've put about 3mm of ride height on the Penske, too-that might have an impact. Bryan...still, the Pilot Roads sound interesting...

You're draggin' your 'Bird, right? 'Cuz if you're lowering the bike for the road, you're gonna start dragging hard parts just as soon as you mill through the feelers (and that'll happen pretty durn fast, too). Bryan...I'd wear taller boots rather than lose ground clearance...

Hey, MacBirdXX, which of the Micron systems did you get, the street version (I think its the Delta)? And who from? Bryan...waitin' for the tax returns...

One of my riding buddy's has the Akro end can on his FZ1 and it sounds schweeeet-but doesn't do anything truly noticeable for power (I know, for that you need the full system). Yes, I could put the bobbins on, but they're useless on the road, and I do a fair bit of "touring" with the guys. Its just easier to pop the bike up on the centerstand every night to lube the chain before heading to the bar. is all. Bryan...any of you guys dyno'ed your bikes after the install?...

Much appreciated, D. I can't justify giving up the centerstand on a GT bike. Maybe if the bike lost 50 pounds (or I lost 100 [and gave up beer]). Unless otherwisev informed, i'll start looking at the Microns. Bryan...then again, there are still HID lights...

OK, people-I've been thinking a full system would be nice on the 'bird, and I'm leaning towards either Micron or Akrapovic. The question is, do I have to remove the centerstand for either one of these systems? I'd prefer not to. Bryan...then again, maybe I'll just put on HIDs...

IIRC, www.hardracing.com has the full Akrapovic system for under $800, and I think they throw in a Power Commander-but don't quote me on that. Bryan...more power good-more handling better...

Yup, that's how I did it-the chain dried out, stiffened right up, and got pretty close to useless. I'll never clean another chain. Bryan...just my 2 cents...

Nah, I gotta agree with Swampy on this one...if you clean the chain the way they say to (with a bruch, a rag, and some sort of solvent), yer gonna fuck it up. When you wash the bike, spritz the chain to get most of the crud off, lube it, and LEAVE IT ALONE! No, seriously. I've seen two chains trashed by cleaning them (one my own); I o-rings/x-rings don't hold up well to that kind of treatment, it seems. Bryan...makes a chain squeaky-stiff, it does...

Uhh, the mirror housing is like $17 at Ron Ayers, color matched...are you sure you don't just wanna buy a new one? Bryan...I've had bad luck with touch-up paint...

Hey thanks, guys...I'd already decided to put in a relay for the grips and quit screwing around with the instructions they sent. Now I'm thinking of using the license plate lamp to "switch" the relay-I'll post how it goes. Bryan...didn't want to work today, anyway...

OK, I tapped into the lowbeam and grounded to the hornmount- then went for a ride to test the heated grips (any excuse, eh?). After 28 miles I pulled back into the garage and couldn't shake life back into my cold fingers...obviouslly, the gips didn't work. So where did I fuck up? Tapping into the lowbeam (I've heard that the headlight would draw the power over the grips [but then why would the instructions tel me to do that])? Bad ground? I'm starting to think I should've tapped into the instrument light (but it was such a bitch to get at-and wrapped up in some SERIOUS etape). I'm tweaked that I'm having these problems getting the grips to work properly, but I'm about ready to throw myself on the mercy of the tech assistance line....it's too fukkin' cold to ride w/out some kind of heat, eh? Bryan...don't want to wear hippo hands...

...So I got a set of Dualstar heated grips for XXmas, and started to install them yesterday. The grips themselves went on like a piece of cake, and routing the wires was no problem (I'm putting the switch on the upper left inner fairing panel-lotsa room for the wiring)...but now I'm trying to decide on two things: where to ground the grips (preferably to the dash), and where to tap into switched power (I was thinking about using the low-beam feed 'cuz its easy to get to). What has everybody else done? Any pointers or tips? Bryan...might try HID lighting, too...

...Big as in size. I don't really want a pair of big-ass lights flopping about creating drag, but the lights I can get (afford) are pretty sizeable-about 4 5/8 " in diameter (much bigger than I wanted). I'd love a set of those PIAA 1100X driving lights, but jeez are THEY pricey! Say, does BLM make the mounting brackets to sell to other XXers, or is your design propietary? Thinking about going into the manufacturing business, are you? You could have an amusing side-line in XX specific parts; after all, the UK has Jaws...we'll have Warchild :grin: . Bryan...of course, that'll cut into your riding time...

I'm curious about how you're liking your 3rd generation light mounting brackets. How did you decide that mounting the lights above the mirrors was better than below? Did you try them mounted below the mirrors or had you decided ahead of time you wanted them higher? Any issues with Johnny Law 'cuz the lights are above the level of the headlight? Also, how big a light could you mount on the bracket you designed? Some riders I know have "manufactured" driving lights (using H7604s) that are the equal of the PIAA 910s in distance, although slightly narrower in spread (ST riders-cheap and creative). The lights cost them less than $60 in parts but they cases are almost 4 5/8" in diameter. Think something like that would fit on your mounts? Bryan...gonna start gettin' dark earlier now...

That's phenomenal, Joe. I had done the books with my wife this past Tuesday and decided I couldn't even afford a used exhaust can. If you think you can part with the can for free I'll come take it off your hands for sure. Ping me at flyv65@yahoo. com and I'll hit you with my phone number, address, or however you want to contact me. Bryan...you guys fukkin' rock...

It's a 2001 so here in the states its red (the fastest color). I've already checked Ron Ayers for most of the stuff. The biggest expense(s) should be the exhaust can and the lower fairing. I havewn't checked the can cost, but the lower fairing lists at $245. Anybody know if that is a color coded (painted) piece, or am I in for painting as well? Really, there was very little damage-I tweaked the brake lever and footpeg (and I've already torched them and tweaked them back). The Jaws crash bung did its job for most of the right side, I think that since I didn't let go of the right clip-on I kept it from flipping when it hit the soft stuff. Mirror is scuffed, but paintable, and the bar weight was scuffed too, but 600 grit sandpaper and Krylon for the gas grill took care of that. I'm counting myself lucky on this one...I really barreled into the corner, and never for a second thought that I'd bottom out on the can. By the way, I alweays ride in at least Joe Rocket GPS gloves, HJC helmet, Sidi on-road boots, and a First Gear Speed jacket. The helmet never got scratched, the gloves show no damage (same for the boots), jeans were a total write-off (right hip and side-seam), and the jacket did its job admirably...but it'll never do it again. I had all the vents open and the sand, gravel, and weeds just ripped it to shreds. I've got one small nylon burn from the lining (silver-dollar sized, on my forearm) and two small bruises on my right shoulder when I transitioned from pavement to dirt. After I get the 'bird put together again I think I'll be looking at a Roadcrafter...or leathers and a 600 for the track. Bryan...no scars, the chicks won't dig me...

Well, I just low-sided my 'Bird about 2 hours ago, and I'm looking for ther cheapest source of OEM parts to get back to standard looking before my folks come out in the middle of September (hard to believe I'm 41 and worried about upsetting them, but it's easier than fighting). By the way, I did this on a cloverleaf by the house with alot of runout-it's one of the spots where I try to test my limits. I went in to the corner with some trailbraking, backed off and folded it over. The can decked, then the rear wheel lifted, and I held on to the right grip and followed her into the dirt. I didn't expect this to happen, as I've been told that the 'bird has the world's longest peg feelers...on the other hand, I've put on the 6mm spacer and haven't decked a peg since I've done that. I'm starting to think that I could get away with less spacer and a little more warning, so I'll be dropping back to about 3 or 4mm when I'm tidying the old girl up. Bryan...anybody got a right exhaust can they want to let go cheap?...

Yeah, I'm curious about this, too. I rebuilt my forks this past Christmas (did the springs about 3 months before), and was very pleased with the results. I drilled the 1.0 mm hole for the rebound and compression valves instead of the 1.3 mm...but I wonder if the fact that I "stress" the suspension more than some people is the reason that I've had acceptable results. Carlos, what did your shop do to the forks differently? Bryan...might have a new project for Christmas...

...Sitting here at my desk I don't remember the kingpin diameter, but if you pull your seat off and lift the rear of the gas tank you'll see the kingpin nut and the kingpin itself going through the centerpiece of the frame. Any washer that'll fit over that bolt and not poke out too far from the crossmember (heh, heh, I said "member" ) will do nicely. I've got 6mm worth of spacer on my 'Bird, and I'm not sure I'd recommend more than that: I think 6mm works out to a little less than a quarter inch of thickness. Also, when you start do do this, try to position the bike's rear tire so that it can drop down lower than floor level-or put the centerstand on a thin piece of wood, 'cuz if you go with the 6mm spacer the floor clearance on reassembly will be "tight". I wound up hanging the back wheel out the front of my garage, over the sloping driveway so I could work on it more easily. And while you're at it, lube the rear shock linkage-it probably needs it. One more thing: you are aware that putting in a spacer only affects the ride height, not your preload,eh? If you're adjusting your rear preload, use a bigass screwdriver and loosen the locknut on the top of the shock, then the adjustment ring can be cranked tighter for more preload, or looser for less. Bryan...I'm re-doing mine this weekend (lost some weight)...

OK, here's the deal: 1) Install the correct fork springs for your weight. Race Tech springs will run you about $100 and take 25 minutes to replace, and all by themselves they are a remarkable improvement. 2) Shim the rear shock 6 mm. This will take an honest hour (maybe more), but it's cheap and it makes a HUGE difference in how quickly the bike turns. 3) Rear shock change. Cheapest is Carlos' 900RR mod version, then the Traxxion Dynamics Penske Sport version, Fox twin clicker, right up to Ohlins. Do you race your 'Bird? No? Go the Carlos route, or Traxxion Dynamics. 4) RaceTech revalving. Rebuildable compression and rebound valve kits fron RT will run you about $290, and you can do the forks yourself in about 5 hours; and you can change them yourself if you lose weight or something :beer: . In all honesty, you'll be so stunned at the difference in the handling after the fork spring/shim work that you'll probably wait 'till winter to do the rear shock and valving-besides, at 16,000 miles that rear shock is "not completey dead, just mostly dead" (shades of Miracle Max, eh?). And at this point, the bike once again better than most of us ride, anyway. Bryan...the shim means grounding pegs is more impressive... :grin:

I asked my salesman at the dealership (he's a racer here in Colorado and places quite well in the AMA competition), and he said to "ride it the way you will after break in; just don't lug it or snap the throttle WFO for the first 600 miles". I can't tell if she's a hot XX compared to others, but she seems "sprightly' to me. Bryan...time for new Avons...

... When I redid my fork valving I bought the seals because the manual said I'd need them...but I was careful removing the downtubes and wound up returning the seals and saving myself 50 someodd bucks. take your time and you'll have no problems . Bryan...money better spent on beer...