ExPatXX

What is the best website(s) for seeing what's legal/illegal for radar detectors & laser jammers? A laser jammer on a bike would be almost impossible to conceal, would it not?

So, how would it work on laser speed detector? Does it have to be on all the time to 'jam' the cop's unit, and it would have to irradiate the unit. How would you aim it or mount it? How well do radar detectors work against 'instant on' units?

My house is just outside of Philly in Lower Montgo. I'll be back in the states in September. PM me and I'll try to see if I can help you with the diagnostics if not done by then. - Check the wheel bearings as well. Also, the push rod that connects the slave cylinder on the clutch to the clutch assay. easily gums up and should be removed and lubricated. You should do the whole fluids changeout- but the oil needs to be first.

How do you tell whether it's the R/R or the stator?

I paid a lot more than that for my 97' bird with 19k on it. It was around 11 y.o. at the time. That's way too little for the bike. The current owner probably meant he turned the odometer to 1800. I'd charge $3000 due to the low mileage. For that price, and assuming its legit- I'd upgrade the suspension, put light weight cans on it, and I wouldn't need to look at anymore sport bikes.

My SV is an 04' with 9k miles on it. I wonder what it's worth?

From fifth right into neutral? I'd say there's something wrong with the shift drum. How else can you bypass three gears? You feel the click/resistance as you move up and down the gears. If I had my manual here, I'd look it up. I suggest taking it in to a shop.

FWIW, the tires on my bikes are easily seven years old, but they don't have a lot of miles on them, and are in good condition otherwise.

That looks like a good solution. I also saw a battery powered one, but it probably isn't explosion proof. The hand operated pump looks safe-or safer. Thanks.

I have problems getting a siphon to work. Draining from the fuel rail won't work on the SV. Using the fuel pump on the SV would have worked by itself, but I didn't have time to disconnect the starter, which is on the same circuit. As for how long they stay between uses? - two years, which is longer than I want for gas with Stabil in it. If the damn gas did not have ethanol in it, I might chance it. So now I alternate bikes. The Blackbird is next to be run, after an oil change- might make it to NeXXt. Draining the tank on the 'Bird is a problem too, as the valve is vacuum operated. Grainger has decent pumps- but they're serious investments- $200 and up. . I saw one for $50, that looks like a gas pump nozzle and works by squeezing the handle to operate the pump, but I'm suspicious of that thing.

Does anyone know of a good pump for emptying the gas tank on a bike? I had a tough time with mine. I was back in the states for three weeks, so I prepped the bike, ran it, then re-mothballed it. The problem is draining the gas tank. The pumps and siphons I've tried suck moose cock. The red plastic one from Advance Auto lasted one season. The following year-nada. I'm thinking about looking in Aldrich or other chemical company suppliers. I'm looking at a couple of gallons, that's all.

Worst tire? I vote for the Dunlop D220s- they came on my SV. Replacing them totally transformed the bike. To be fair, that was 2004 vintage.

The gas tanks are empty and coated inside with WD-40. I'm hoping that the injectors on my SV aren't clogged. The last gas ran through them had stabil in it. I couldn't figure out in the limited time how to blow air in to remove residual gas in the injectors or even if that's a good idea. I can get new injectors- its the time factor, I'll only be back for 3 weeks before I have to return to the Village.

I saw this earlier- but don't remember where on the Pub. Two questions: Length of time between oil changes if the bikes are just sitting. I think I read that synthetic can stay for much longer than regular oils from a forum member. If the bikes have run on regular oil- any problem switching to synthetic? I might not get to them again for a year or more.

I used to work in the engine oil lab of Rohm & Haas years ago- I remember the analysis had phosphorus, but that and zinc were not considered major componenets. The viscosity improver is what provides most of the lubricity and protection, especially as the oil heats up. There are ash dispersants, pour point depressants (keeps oil from freezing due to the waxes in the oil) and other compounds, but metaloids were more of a byproduct or a minor contributor, if anything, IIRC. It could be just that the viscosity improver, which makes an oil a 40wt or 30wt, is inferior and breaks down quickly, or is not suitable for that application. The viscosity improver sold by R&H back then went into oils from Quaker State, Valvoline and others. the base oil is around 3-5 centistokes, and around 12-15 with the viscosity improver. An engine would trash itself in minutes on running just the base oil. Synthetics are a different animal altogether. Good luck. Could the tight tolerances keep the lubricant from coating the steel, or is an oil hole or two in the block clogged or blocked?

Trickle charger, of course. The fun is now registering the bike since it was off the insurance policy. If I have to get another battery- it will be a lithium type where a maintenance charge isn't a concern. I had a backup car battery for use as power source with an inverter for running small electrical items in case of power outages which are frequent in my tree lined neighborhood. I had neglected to charge it, and now it WON'T hold a charge. It got very little use. I'll follow up to report how my YTS-12 whatever holds a charge.

Will be back in the States for three weeks starting June 6th, and I want to get some riding in while back. The tank was emptied and spray with WD, the carbs drained (it's a 97), the cylinders got a squirt of oil through the spark plug holes; then turned over for a second or two. The battery is on a charger. It has been sitting for a year and a half, ditto for my SV. Is an oil change mandatory and is another oil in the cylinder treatment needed before firing it up? Should I relube the cylinders in the SV as well?

Definitely run some sort of cleaner thru it, Tom. I have a 1997 as well. Before I had to mothball the bike, I made a point of not filling the tank so I could keep adding fresh gas. One thing you can try, though expensive is going to Fisher Chemical and see if you can get a liter or two of MTBE. MTBE got a bad rep. It's the fault of the leaky storage tanks that it got into the groundwater. It's tough to remove. People forget that it took lead OUT of the environment. I'm doubtful that there's a compound out there that can bond with the ethanol to render innocuous.