Crazy Dave

And I thought that a coat hanger and a torch was high tech!

And I thought the baddest handling Bird was the one with the 400# woman on the pillion!!

Krypt, Tell them it is a 750 and it WILL smoke their buddies Busa. That will get them going.

I clean my chain with diesel fuel (free from work) and a brush. After it sorta dries, a 5 minute ride and then apply the 90 weight while the bike is running on the center stand and idling in 1st gear. After shutting the bike off and letting the excess drip, a coating of chain wax will help retain the oil in the nooks and crannies of the chain. My CBX has had this done since 1981 and it still has the original chain and sprokets.

Keeper, If you sell yours, you have visitation priveleges to my 02. I did cover up the fast silver with slow black to really help with the stealth factor. Something like a MG Midget with a big block Chevy motor. Who would expect it?

Zulu, Since this is my 1000th post, I have chosen to reply to your request for info. Put the bike up on the stand. Clean and lube chain. Drain the gas tank and put fresh stuff in. Crank the motor over until the oil pressue light goes out BEFORE you plug the fuel pump hot wire back in. Since you changed the oil after the last ride, you should be ok for now. Run it for a couple hundred miles and change it. That will burn off any moisture that has built up while stored. Check the brakes and clutch for smooth operations while it is still on the stand. Check tire pressure Go for a ride around the neighborhood - take cell phone. Check bike over again and enjoy. Remember that the tires are 3 years older than when you last rode it and have probably gotten a wee bit harder and will probably spin at the worst time. Last thing to do--- HAVE FUN BEING BACK IN THE SADDLE AGAIN!

The Bird has a closed cooling system. All the coolant stays in the system. Take the bike for a ride on a hot day then pull into the garage and let it run until the fan comes on. Shut the bike off, get a cold one out of the fridge and go back and turn the ignition on. I bet the temp would be up there in the heart attack zone. You might even hear some diareaha sounds from the motor. The engine is going thru a heat soak. It is full of hot water and an even hotter parts and no cooling what so ever. The internal water pressure will eventually overcome the pressure release spring in the cap and blow the water under pressure into the recovery bottle. Later on, as the coolant in the block cools off and the volume reduces, a partial vacuum is created and this allows the internal vent in the cap to open slightly and the vaccum sucks the overflow back into the system. My 02 fan comes on at 215 and I have seen as high as 245 after a 5 minute heat soak at 95 deg. An oversimplification would be... Take 2 -1 quart rear end lube bottles with the tapered caps. Have one 1/2 full and the other 1/4 full. Take 2 feet of tubing and connect the 2 caps together. Hold the 1/4 full one upside down above your head with your left hand. This is your overflow bottle. Hold the 1/2 full one in your right hand. This is your radiator. Squeeze the radiator and see what happens and then release it. Or just fill the overflow bottle on the bike to the top while it is cold. Go for a ride and shut the bike off. About 5 minutes later, coolant will be peeing all over the right side of the bike.

My son uses 2 part epoxy repair that he gets at Auto Zone for about 6 bucks. Works great.

Sounds like a rotor is slightly warped.

Geezer, How do they work??????? I put a set on my bike and put about 500 miles on them before taking the bike to Deal's Gap. Could not fade them and when you hit them hard, it sounded like you just chucked them in the brake lathe.

Loosen header to head bolts. Apply prying device between header tubes and frame. Pry till adequate clearence is achieved. If all fails, 5 lb. hand sledge will work also. Retighten bolts. If this method does not give satisfactory clearence, substitute 'heat wrench' in place of hand sledge. Massive infusion of alcoholic beverages might be needed for this operation.

Phillip. The best way to stop all the stupid remarks is to simply explain that ALL the young ladies love to go for rides with you. You know, sorta like Peggy Bundy and her HD motor.

Personally, I try to keep the bird in the garage. I do ride it to work when there is little or no call for rain. My 80 CBX has never been left out for more than 8 hours and has NEVER been ridden in the rain. The 79 CBX that was given to me was left out all the time from 1980 to 1983 in San Diego. From then on it was in 1 garage or the other in non-running mode. Check the picture. Which one would you rather have?

Like I said...... it's the mold release agent that insures that the tire does not stick in the mold...sorta like PAM for tires. I do believe that race tires have it removed before shipment.

I put Powers on mine and just ran 4 tankfuls of gas thru the bike at Deal's Gap last week and I gave up way before they got near their limit. Combo of not being a fool and not wanting to crash. I have about 2/3 of an inch chicken strip on the back.Mostly run in 3rd gear as I had it step out twice in 2nd gear leaving a corner. I don't want to paint the bike again,

I got my Pilot Powers thru Cycle Gear. Of course, They will mount them on your rims but you have to take them off the bike. 1/2 a pizza given to the son is a lot cheaper than $75/hr at a bike shop.

I have wiped new bike tires down with a rag full of lacquer thinner. It takes off the mold release that lurks on the rubber. And relieves you of (some of) the worry about low-siding the bike the 1st time you pull the trigger in the middle of a turn.

Don't forget the chain !!!!

Tomek has a good thought.... How much of the oil pick-up is covered with oil whilst riding a really high wheelie.. something like up around 10 or 11 o'clock ??

Lexus Black Mica Pearl makes it FASTER !!!

You can always take one to a painter's supply store and have them analyze it with a spectrometer and mix some paint for you. Some of the NAPA parts stores used to have this capability. And don't call me all them thar nasty and high falliutin' names--- I might get the idea that I am special. If you do get the paint analyzed, please post the formula for the rest of us idiots.

Normally the radar shows a lower speed than actual because it is usaully not a true head-on reading. They farther off to the side, the lower the reading. I found that the best way to check it is find one of those stationary 'The Speed Limit Is __- Your Speed Is __ ' radar units. I find them around constuction zones and speeding hot spots. My speedo is off about 5 or 6%. It is also fun to nail the bike in 1st gear and see if the radar can keep up.

I just replaced the original pads with the HHs on advice from my son. After a short ride (the 1st stop sign) I had to adjust the brake lever and remember to use 2 fingers and pull lightly!! What a difference. Have 110 miles on them and still breaking them in. My son said that the brakes feel like his R6 now.

I clean my chain with diesel fuel that has some 10/40 mixed in. After drying, I let the bike idle in 1st gear and lightly apply some rear end lube along the top of the links on both sides of the chain and then a bit to the center of the rollers. I let that sit for a minute and wipe off any drips. Then I apply chain wax to sorta seal the oil in. That way the chain has plenty of lube and the wax keeps it in.

Back in the air-cooled bike days, they always jetted the inside cylinders a bit richer than the outside ones as it helped the inside ones run a touch cooler.