tripledigits

I do have the PAIR removed. Thanks for the input, guys. Any other comments on optimum air/fuel?

I've recently installed a full Akro exhaust and PCIII, and had it dyno tuned. The shop tuning it used 13:1 as their target a/f. They said running it a bit leaner (about 14:1) saw 2 more hp, but they were afraid to set it that lean. I'm wondering if their sniffer was out of calibration, since my bike seems to be running rich (sooty tailpipe) and fuel mileage is down a bit. Max power shouldn't be too lean from what I've heard. Does anyone have any input on this? I am able to get the max power map from the tuners, and could easily load it. I'm not so concerned about the last couple hp, but just don't want to burn more gas than I need to. Thanks for any input on this. I couldn't find my answers on a search.......

I always like oil discussions..... The discoloration in oil as it ages is the result of the detergents in the oil doing their job, and is the visible evidence of combustion byproducts being held in suspension. There is a good reason to use synthetic oil in your streetbike - it you live in a climate where you do frequent cold starts, you will see less engine wear. A good part of your engines wear occurs at start up, when the engine has less than optimum lubrication for a very short time. A synthetic oil will get to your engine parts sooner in cold weather, hence the reduction in wear. The difference is the paraffins in dino oil.

Thanks for the input. How much did mileage suffer with the 16T?

I've owned my '02 since August, and just discovered it has an 18 T front sprocket. It's geared too tall for my liking, and I was going to put a 16 T on, assuming it had the stock 17 T. I wanted to get some input from the guys who have run a 16. I run canyons with my bike, as well as commute on the superslab. Is freeway riding with a 16 pleasant? Thanks for any input. I didn't find much info on this during a search. Jeff

I haven't had great luck with even the Honda touch up paint. The metallics, as mentioned above, are just nearly impossible to look good without a spray. I have a red VFR, and the touch up paint for it seems to have not enough color. Yes, I shook the container.... A good custom paint shop can match the color and give you a spray can. I don't know the price, but it may be worth the trouble.... Anyone have a cross reference automotive paint code for the BB silver, if one exists??

Had the dyno tuning done today, 13 pulls. End result is 130.5 hp with 78 tq. This is not corrected for altitude - the dyno work was done at a density altitude of 5500-6000'. Baseline was 125/76 with stock setup, and was uncorrected as well. At 2% per thousand feet, this equates to 145 hp. DynoJet dyno was used. I was told of all the BBs they had tuned, mine was the strongest. (Maybe they tell everyone that?) The area under the curve is where the biggest gains are - hp falloff approaching rev limit is reduced a notoceable amount, as is area under the curve above 9000 rpm. I was hoping to get 10-15 hp over stock, since I'd read of others seeing those gains, but I'm happy with the way the bike feels - substantially smoother and stronger than stock. I'd be happy to post the map if anyone needs one for altitude. I had uploaded the 2 Bros full exhaust PCIII map when I installed it, and it turns out it was running lean with that map. To repeat my mods - full Akro Sport, PAIR block-off, PCIII and K & N. Jeff

I'm all for extended change intervals for the above reasons, but the oil filter still needs to be changed at the recommended interval. Just a reminder....

Maybe it's the damned ethanol in our gas. New plugs, old air filter, 9K miles. Dyno guy said throttle response felt a little sluggish. I'll run some injector cleaner through it. Gas stations here use 10% ethanol fuel - a known power reducer. Jeff

Steve, Did the Akra make the bike run lean or rich with no map? Just curious. Do you have a PC for your current setup?? Thanks, Jeff

I had a baseline dyno run done yesterday in preparation for adding a PC and Akro full exhaust. Numbers were 125 hp and 76 lbs. with the much discussed 5500 rpm dip on the torque and hp curve. I noticed hp and tq both falling off a bit before redline, beginning about 9500 rpm, IIRC. Dynojet was used, and the shop guy (owner) said he thought the throttle response was a bit muted, like some fuel injector cleaner may be in order. Time for some Seafoam. I'll post dyno results after the mods are in place. Interestingly, the shop had called me from their past customer list to offer me some season ending discounts. When I inquired about the Akro exhaust, they called the supplier and were told there was only 1 left in the country (Sport full exhaust with Ti can). I was going to wait awhile to do the exhaust, but figured since the Akro was a good exhaust and may not be available in the future, I decided to take the leap. From reading other posts, I suppose I can hope for about 140 hp and a smaller dropoff at high rpm? My biggest goal would be to see max area under the torque curve, since that's what we feel when we ride on the street. Any recommendations for the dyno tuning??

Did you have it dyno tuned? If not, that might be your answer. Jeff

Count me in on a PCIII. Jeff

The OEM ball bearings are one of the few substandard parts Honda put on this bike, according to the local Honda service techs I have talked with. They (gasp) recommend replacing the Honda ball bearings with aftermarket roller bearings, which a motorcycle shop should be able to get for you. I bought a set for $32. My '02 had 8K when I bought it, and there was a little play in the bearings. I'm going to replace the bearings this week, while I replace the fork cartridges.

That detent is definitely not normal. It's a result of a worn bearing. I've been told the Honda head bearings are one of the few parts Honda dealers will replace with aftermarket parts. Tapered roller bearings are available for the BB at about $32/set.

I have to wiggle mine to open it. Greaseless spray lube helped, but it still needs encouragement to open. I think I'll do the filing option to free up the clearance.

Al, What spring rate did Penske use with the shock, and how much do you weigh, if you don't mind a personal question? I'm about to put a Penske on my bike and have heard rates anywhere from 900 to 1300 lbs for a 185 lb (with gear) rider. Penske is recommending 1300, although in my experience they go on the stiff side of the range. Thanks, Jeff

With the help of a friend doing an extensive search, I finally have my '02 Bird running again. Symptoms were dead middle cylinders. I had gone through all the usual suspects: changed plugs, checked spark, cleaned injectors, checked coil, checked injector wiring, changed fuel filter, checked air filter.......... I had a couple mechanics tell me the engine had an internal problem based on the symptoms, so I was fearing the worst. Anyway, my friend who owns an '03 did alot of searching, and came up with the possibility of a bad fuel pressure regulator. I would never have guessed that a bad regulator could cause 2 dead cylinders. I picked up my new regulator yesterday and installed it today. Pulled the vacuum line and some fuel was in the line. Engine fired right up on all 4 cylinders when the job was done. Anyway, for anyone who has the same symptoms, save yourself some time and check the FPR. It's good to have my bike back. Thanks to everyone for the input on my previous thread describing this problem. Jeff

39 mpg average riding from Las Vegas to Denver. 1 up, loaded bags, 90 mph average speed. Stock '02.