Leftlaner

Hi guys, I need a little help with setting the timing correctly. The bike runs just fine as long as I drive within the speed limit, but she's not quite that happy with high speed touring/racing. I've ordered a Factory Pro kit with larger main jets and different needles (adjustable height) which will probably help a lot! I have a BMC air filter, and Fuel slip-ons with the baffles removed most of the time. I also have a Dyna2000 ignition advancer/booster, and I've ordered the fixed 4 degrees timing advancer from Factory Pro. Before I start messing with jet sizes and needle height, I want to get as close to optimum timing as I can get. The Factory Pro timing advancer will advance timing by 4 degrees throughout the entire rpm range. The Dyna2000 enables me to swap between 3 different timing CURVES. More precicely, I can choose to reach "full timing" (about 35 degrees BTDC without the fixed 4 degree advancer) at either 2500, 4500 or 6500rpm. Obviously what I'm looking for with the timing adjustment, is midrange torque and responsiveness. At the same time, I don't want to risk pinging or detonation (premature ignition). I've heard good things about the Factory Pro 4 degree advancer, it should improve midrange torque, provided that the carbs are dialed inn well (a bit on the rich side of stochiometric mixture). But I'm not sure which of the three timing curves on the Dyna2000 I should use. By setting it to position 1, I'll get 39 degrees advance from 2500rpms after installing the fixed 4 degree advancer. Is this safe? Is it too much? If I start using high octane premium fuel, will this be enough to compensate for the somewhat "aggressive" timing curve? And finally, does someone have the timing chart for a stock 97-98 'bird? This would be valiable as a reference??

Thanks a million guys! EDIT: Looks like the only special tool I'll need is the one for for torquing the upper brace. Bet I can find a pipe and a driver at fraction of the Honda OEM tool price..

Hi guys! I'm going to replace the steering head bearings with tapered ones, and as I look through the shop manual it seems I need a whole lot of special tools for this job. Please take a look at the attached image. Do I need to order all the parts marked with red? And check out the part marked with BLUE..! Not sure if I can fit a hydraulic press in my garage..! By the way, I see myself as a "hobby mechanic", and NOT a pro by any means. Done a some maintenance on me ol' Ninja, but I've never seen the inside of a steering stem before.. :icon_shifty: In other words, if you have any good advice regarding how to get this job done, I'm listening!

Wow, that's a really suitable color for the 'bird! I was going to paint my extra fairing deep red metallic, but now I'll definately reconsider! It's prolly easier to get a pro look if you stay off the metallic and clear coats as well. I've been told that black metallic actually is the most difficult color to get 100% "right"..

I had a machine shop drill a hole in the exhaust manifold on my Kawasaki GPZ900. Then they welded a bung into the hole - and voilá. One O2 sensor installed and ready for action! I hooked it up with a simple LCD that displayed the O2 readings in millivolts. Came in handy when I tuned the carbs..! For European members of the forum, I can strongly recommend www.turbobits.co.uk Freight cost might be a little stiff if you want it shipped to US, I dunno..(?)

Regarding the fooked up tach, this is very likely a problem related to your electrical system. The exact same thing happened to a friend of a mine (on a car with electrical tach). In that case, it was simply a blown fuse! Go figure! So I recommend that you check the fuses and look for bad electric connections and faulty wires.. Electrical probs are a bitch, hope you figure it out!

Was it exactely the same symptoms that I've described? The clutch basket, huh.. Hmm, definately worth an inspection once I pop up the clutch cover anyway, to replace the bearings.. Is this a common thing with Birds?

PM sent..

Hey there, fellow rider from the North! Thanks for the tip, but I doubt that the CCT is the problem here. CCT noise usually appears around 3500-4000rpm, and isn't affected by the clutch/gear. "My" rattling sound ONLY appears when I'm letting out the clutch in 1st or 2nd gear, BELOW 3000rpm.. Furthermore, the sound appears to get LOUDER as the engine heats up, as opposed to the CCT noise. Both the humming and rattling sound seem to escalate as the engine heats up. I guess this either has to do with the fact that the metal is expanding, or that the oil gets thinner when the engine reaches normal operating temperature..? PS. MCbamse, do you hang out on the Norwegian MC forum too?

Recently bought a '97 bird, and it runs great! Will change tires, replace the steering head bearings with tapered roller bearings, and the usual winter service (oil, plugs, filters etc). There is only ONE thing that bugs me with this bike. When in neutral, there is a distinct change in the sound when I engage / disengage the clutch lever. From what I've been told, this is quite common on 'Birds, and Honda's generally..? It sounds like a worn thrust-bearing, so replacing both clutch bearings should take care of the "humming" in neutral gear? However, I also get a "rattling" sound as I slip out the clutch in 1st and 2nd gear (low rev). I can also sense some vibrations in the foot beg, perfectly synchronized with the rattling sounds. Are these two sounds related to the same cause --> clutch bearings? :icon_think: What do you think?

Sounds like a 30 minute job when you know the drill, as opposed to 3 minutes on a "normal" bike If I loosen the retaning clips and the bolts on the forks, won't that imply that the dampers slide right through --> Serious nose-dive? :icon_shifty: In other words, I have to place a jack under the engine to keep the bike upright??? :icon_think: The clamps on the lower triples do an excellent job of holding the forks in place when the bars and upper triple are removed. If you plan on replacing the steering head bearings, the yes, you will need to support the front end. That will be considerably more involved than simply tightening them, and I'd suggest getting your hands on a service manual before proceeding with that project. Thanks, man! You're the best! :icon_clap: This is really a great forum, you'll probably hear more from me soon.. PS. A Haynes manual is now on it's way to my mailbox

By the way, word has it that pin bearings last longer than ball bearings.. :icon_think: Does anyone know of a place to get a pin bearing kit for the steering head on this bike?

Sounds like a 30 minute job when you know the drill, as opposed to 3 minutes on a "normal" bike If I loosen the retaning clips and the bolts on the forks, won't that imply that the dampers slide right through --> Serious nose-dive? :icon_shifty: In other words, I have to place a jack under the engine to keep the bike upright??? :icon_think:

Err.. Sorry for asking another noob question, but how do I pull off the top bridge? (see picture) Do I have to remove the handlebars and loosen the shocks? How come mr.Honda didn't go for the "normal" setup, where adjusting the steering head bearing takes less than 5 minutes..??

Thanks for the tip! :icon_thumbsup: