Para045

Yeah I have those on my bike, very good

Finally got the camera off of the wifey? Good job on the fan set up. +1 2 years, thats a very slow download speed you have there

Nice, but fairly pointless. It's just a metal rack. Something you might bungee to, but not quite enough. Wonder if there are cases that work with it. One of the guys at work has an FJR with a Ventura rack and has just bolted a cheap top box to it (RJay's I think :icon_think: ) or there is this from Twisted Throttle

It could be that it just needs a little fiddling to get the correct tension as I took quite a while to get the "sweet spot" as you put it :icon_think: I also Loctited my adjuster screw to stop it coming loose after a while :icon_wall: I also needed to put a bit of spray lube on the grip side initially to combat drag No real need for the lug and wire on the front, just drill a hole and put a small screw (like piano hinge size) into the switchblock (there is actually already a small hole in the side )

It's also possible that the rod was still connected but loose and when it was unscrewed it undid off the rod :icon_think: When I replaced my springs one of the caps was screwed down lower on the rod than the other

Yeah especially when I pointed it out to the service manager and he had to take a "close" look to see what I was getting at Even my missus picked it up pretty much straight away Believe me I'm going over it with a fine tooth comb when (If ) I get it, was supposed to be today BUT when I rang they said the tank had a slight run under the clear and had been sent back to the painters, so looks like Thursday :icon_wall:

The choke on my bike is pretty good actually, I flick it on full in really cold weather (well here anyway <8c), then let it run for a minute or 2 while I put my helmet and gloves on, then usually get on drop it to 3/4 and put her in gear and ride off then flick it off a couple of km's down the road :icon_think: If the weather is warmer like over 15c then usually 1/2 choke is plenty and flick it off just after I ride away

Wow I would have been stoked to have gotten my Bird repaired for $2600 I'm still waiting to get her back again as he went int to fix some of the fuckups the dealer did with the repairs BUT from what I can see, they have - Replaced the: Stator Cover LH Mirror Housing (AFAIK mirror and indicator etc was OK) LH Footpeg Assembly (heel guard/peg/rubber etc - the whole lot) LH exhaust can LH VFR bar Both HVMP Extra heavy bar ends. Repainted: Nose Cowl LH & RH Lower Cowls LH? (may be OEM Ti but looks like painted) & RH mirror housings Front Fender For that I think the quote to the insurer was ~$4600AUD The original quote they gave they included the RH exhaust can (not sure what else) and that would have been ~$5500AUD It was insured for $6600 and if they did the 1st quote would have written the bike off :icon_wall: Now I have had to take the bike back in because the dealer fucked up and a) put a std XX clipon on the LH side with the VFR on the RH side :icon_wall: Ordered in std bar ends not the HVMP ones :icon_nono: AND to top it off somehow managed to put 3 small dents in the front of the tank :icon_wall: It's all getting fixed BUT so far it has been over 3 months since the accident Fucking incompetent pricks

Yep I did that on mine when I fitted my VFR bars :icon_wall: I recently fixed mine, what I did was get a really small screw (for piano hinge) :icon_think: , drill where the plastic spigot had been and screw in the screw . THEN what I did was take the screw out and grind under the head on the cnr of a grinding wheel so that it was only just holding and then screwed it back in, snapped off the head and filed the rest smooth Works great, it had been a real pain because as mine is a carbed bike, ever time I moved the choke lever the switch housing rotated :icon_duh:

From memory when Stan dissected a CCT he determined that the way it is designed with a screw type thread that yes it was meant to float/adjust in and out to compensate for variations in the cam chain tension but when it wears it loses that ability and that is when the rattle occurs

Yeah, hence why I went with the 005's, was worried they would wear out way too quick Also wasn't too sure about the lack of rain grooves seeing as I ride in all sorts of weather

Exactly Here is a variation of fitting the VC I saved from OzBB :icon_think: I actually fitted mine using a combination of the 2 methods. The mounting position was as per the first pic and I did use the plastic tang but I also used a screw into the switch housing between the throttle cables just to make sure and I trimmed the ring on the throttle for clearance as in the link, I didn't have to alter my grips as mine are foam Johar Superbike grips :icon_think: CBR1100XX_Vista_Cruise_Alternative_Fitting_Instructions.doc

I'm sorta thinking the same, as I had the 005 "Advance" on mine and could get the back to slide around under power especially when cold whereas the PR2 rears just stick Quite a few guys over east were using the 003 Stealth's and were quite rapt in them (hence why I tried them) and they were very cheap but after talking to the local tyre guy he seemed to reckon they were very soft and wouldn't last with the riding I was doing :icon_think: The extra wear and they weren't nearly as cheap over here in Perth was why I didn't use them again :icon_wall:

Posted in the other thread but will here too - Do you have that email addy? I was looking at getting some of those but don't need to now after my crash because they repainted all the front cowling's and mirrors BUT a few guys have brought these up on the local forum and it's always good to know which ones have a good rep as they do seem to be a bit hit and miss in regards quality and fit How close is the colour to the OEM silver? When I was looking the ones that I think were supposed to be TITANIUM were a bit silver looking :icon_think: May also look at getting just a tail cowl at some stage as the current one has a few cracks :icon_think:

For an XX you need 01 onward VFR Vtech bars, the earlier bars are 41mm internal diameter the later and XX are 43mm The VFR bars are ~7/8'' higher, ~3/4'' further back and ~1/2'' wider tip>tip than the XX bars Also I found I couldn't tilt the levers down as far as on the XX bars

I used a set of 005's a couple of years ago, were ~$70AUD a set cheaper than the Michi PPf/PRr combo but the rear was shot at ~6500km's compared to the PR's 10 000km's :icon_think: The fronts lasted ~ the same # of km's (13000) but were slower to turn in than the PP's, also they didn't feel as confident when cold as the PP/PR combo so went back to PP/PR2's and the extra mileage of the rear cancels the cheaper price

+1 I bought some in the 1st buy and love them, @~6'1" and ~300lb's and having spent a lot of time in the building industry and having dodgy knees they made quite a bit of difference to me I reckon about the best compromise between legroom and clearance Yeah I had to drop the shifter 1 notch and do a bit of fiddling to drop the brake lever etc :icon_think: As far as the sidestand, I found it hitting my boot so I drilled it near the top and put in a self tapper to drop it down a fraction (~1") and then made a wedge of ally to go under the mount as it was grounding out while cornering I just unbolted the brake cyl and cut the bolt with a small hacksaw as I didn't have a dremmel :icon_think: There is another thread with pics :icon_think: I do need to get some more blocks now due to bending one in my recent crash :icon_wall:

I've had a Scottoiler since Dec 08 and I love it I do get a little fling even with the red oil but I have only had to adjust my chain twice in ~15 000km's Was a little tricky getting the tube set up correctly from the swingarm onto the sprocket

I replaced the globes on my 98 with T10 Wedge globes like these I replaced the 2 inner ones with blue and the 2 outer with white, tried all blue but the red on the fuel gauge and tacho's red zone went purple/black and hard to see so changed them I just took off the screen and was able to do it that way :icon_think:

I have the Kettenmax chain cleaner, works quite well although since getting a Scottoiler and the new chain and sprockets I haven't needed it

That's great mileage, I used to only get ~10 000km's from the PR rears and I get the same roughly from the PR2 rears although with the PR's it was flat spotting the centres and the PR2's I wear out the sides I do ride quite hard and am ~300lb's :icon_think:

The T10's are a direct swap as stated above, just pull the black caps off (~1/4 turn) and pull the stockers out and replace with the T10's making sure of the polarity as described As above I used blue on the middle globes (makes the speedo/tacho/clock blue) and white on the outer ones as the blue turned the red zone of the tacho and the fuel gauge almost black

Try pulling the clutch lever in, does the ticking go away? If so it's just the clutch basket rattling until she warms up Pretty common I have heard and more prevalent in the FI bikes for some reason I'm led to believe from the UK forums

I replaced the ones on my 98's dash with Blue T10's from Jaycar a local company :icon_think: