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Everything posted by Para045
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Yeah I have those on my bike, very good
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Finally got the camera off of the wifey? Good job on the fan set up. +1 2 years, thats a very slow download speed you have there
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Nice, but fairly pointless. It's just a metal rack. Something you might bungee to, but not quite enough. Wonder if there are cases that work with it. One of the guys at work has an FJR with a Ventura rack and has just bolted a cheap top box to it (RJay's I think :icon_think: ) or there is this from Twisted Throttle
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It could be that it just needs a little fiddling to get the correct tension as I took quite a while to get the "sweet spot" as you put it :icon_think: I also Loctited my adjuster screw to stop it coming loose after a while :icon_wall: I also needed to put a bit of spray lube on the grip side initially to combat drag No real need for the lug and wire on the front, just drill a hole and put a small screw (like piano hinge size) into the switchblock (there is actually already a small hole in the side )
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It's also possible that the rod was still connected but loose and when it was unscrewed it undid off the rod :icon_think: When I replaced my springs one of the caps was screwed down lower on the rod than the other
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Yeah especially when I pointed it out to the service manager and he had to take a "close" look to see what I was getting at Even my missus picked it up pretty much straight away Believe me I'm going over it with a fine tooth comb when (If ) I get it, was supposed to be today BUT when I rang they said the tank had a slight run under the clear and had been sent back to the painters, so looks like Thursday :icon_wall:
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The choke on my bike is pretty good actually, I flick it on full in really cold weather (well here anyway <8c), then let it run for a minute or 2 while I put my helmet and gloves on, then usually get on drop it to 3/4 and put her in gear and ride off then flick it off a couple of km's down the road :icon_think: If the weather is warmer like over 15c then usually 1/2 choke is plenty and flick it off just after I ride away
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Wow I would have been stoked to have gotten my Bird repaired for $2600 I'm still waiting to get her back again as he went int to fix some of the fuckups the dealer did with the repairs BUT from what I can see, they have - Replaced the: Stator Cover LH Mirror Housing (AFAIK mirror and indicator etc was OK) LH Footpeg Assembly (heel guard/peg/rubber etc - the whole lot) LH exhaust can LH VFR bar Both HVMP Extra heavy bar ends. Repainted: Nose Cowl LH & RH Lower Cowls LH? (may be OEM Ti but looks like painted) & RH mirror housings Front Fender For that I think the quote to the insurer was ~$4600AUD The original quote they gave they included the RH exhaust can (not sure what else) and that would have been ~$5500AUD It was insured for $6600 and if they did the 1st quote would have written the bike off :icon_wall: Now I have had to take the bike back in because the dealer fucked up and a) put a std XX clipon on the LH side with the VFR on the RH side :icon_wall: Ordered in std bar ends not the HVMP ones :icon_nono: AND to top it off somehow managed to put 3 small dents in the front of the tank :icon_wall: It's all getting fixed BUT so far it has been over 3 months since the accident Fucking incompetent pricks
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Yep I did that on mine when I fitted my VFR bars :icon_wall: I recently fixed mine, what I did was get a really small screw (for piano hinge) :icon_think: , drill where the plastic spigot had been and screw in the screw . THEN what I did was take the screw out and grind under the head on the cnr of a grinding wheel so that it was only just holding and then screwed it back in, snapped off the head and filed the rest smooth Works great, it had been a real pain because as mine is a carbed bike, ever time I moved the choke lever the switch housing rotated :icon_duh:
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From memory when Stan dissected a CCT he determined that the way it is designed with a screw type thread that yes it was meant to float/adjust in and out to compensate for variations in the cam chain tension but when it wears it loses that ability and that is when the rattle occurs
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Yeah, hence why I went with the 005's, was worried they would wear out way too quick Also wasn't too sure about the lack of rain grooves seeing as I ride in all sorts of weather
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Exactly Here is a variation of fitting the VC I saved from OzBB :icon_think: I actually fitted mine using a combination of the 2 methods. The mounting position was as per the first pic and I did use the plastic tang but I also used a screw into the switch housing between the throttle cables just to make sure and I trimmed the ring on the throttle for clearance as in the link, I didn't have to alter my grips as mine are foam Johar Superbike grips :icon_think: CBR1100XX_Vista_Cruise_Alternative_Fitting_Instructions.doc
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I'm sorta thinking the same, as I had the 005 "Advance" on mine and could get the back to slide around under power especially when cold whereas the PR2 rears just stick Quite a few guys over east were using the 003 Stealth's and were quite rapt in them (hence why I tried them) and they were very cheap but after talking to the local tyre guy he seemed to reckon they were very soft and wouldn't last with the riding I was doing :icon_think: The extra wear and they weren't nearly as cheap over here in Perth was why I didn't use them again :icon_wall:
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Posted in the other thread but will here too - Do you have that email addy? I was looking at getting some of those but don't need to now after my crash because they repainted all the front cowling's and mirrors BUT a few guys have brought these up on the local forum and it's always good to know which ones have a good rep as they do seem to be a bit hit and miss in regards quality and fit How close is the colour to the OEM silver? When I was looking the ones that I think were supposed to be TITANIUM were a bit silver looking :icon_think: May also look at getting just a tail cowl at some stage as the current one has a few cracks :icon_think:
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For an XX you need 01 onward VFR Vtech bars, the earlier bars are 41mm internal diameter the later and XX are 43mm The VFR bars are ~7/8'' higher, ~3/4'' further back and ~1/2'' wider tip>tip than the XX bars Also I found I couldn't tilt the levers down as far as on the XX bars
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I used a set of 005's a couple of years ago, were ~$70AUD a set cheaper than the Michi PPf/PRr combo but the rear was shot at ~6500km's compared to the PR's 10 000km's :icon_think: The fronts lasted ~ the same # of km's (13000) but were slower to turn in than the PP's, also they didn't feel as confident when cold as the PP/PR combo so went back to PP/PR2's and the extra mileage of the rear cancels the cheaper price
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+1 I bought some in the 1st buy and love them, @~6'1" and ~300lb's and having spent a lot of time in the building industry and having dodgy knees they made quite a bit of difference to me I reckon about the best compromise between legroom and clearance Yeah I had to drop the shifter 1 notch and do a bit of fiddling to drop the brake lever etc :icon_think: As far as the sidestand, I found it hitting my boot so I drilled it near the top and put in a self tapper to drop it down a fraction (~1") and then made a wedge of ally to go under the mount as it was grounding out while cornering I just unbolted the brake cyl and cut the bolt with a small hacksaw as I didn't have a dremmel :icon_think: There is another thread with pics :icon_think: I do need to get some more blocks now due to bending one in my recent crash :icon_wall:
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I've had a Scottoiler since Dec 08 and I love it I do get a little fling even with the red oil but I have only had to adjust my chain twice in ~15 000km's Was a little tricky getting the tube set up correctly from the swingarm onto the sprocket
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I replaced the globes on my 98 with T10 Wedge globes like these I replaced the 2 inner ones with blue and the 2 outer with white, tried all blue but the red on the fuel gauge and tacho's red zone went purple/black and hard to see so changed them I just took off the screen and was able to do it that way :icon_think:
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I have the Kettenmax chain cleaner, works quite well although since getting a Scottoiler and the new chain and sprockets I haven't needed it
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That's great mileage, I used to only get ~10 000km's from the PR rears and I get the same roughly from the PR2 rears although with the PR's it was flat spotting the centres and the PR2's I wear out the sides I do ride quite hard and am ~300lb's :icon_think:
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The T10's are a direct swap as stated above, just pull the black caps off (~1/4 turn) and pull the stockers out and replace with the T10's making sure of the polarity as described As above I used blue on the middle globes (makes the speedo/tacho/clock blue) and white on the outer ones as the blue turned the red zone of the tacho and the fuel gauge almost black
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Try pulling the clutch lever in, does the ticking go away? If so it's just the clutch basket rattling until she warms up Pretty common I have heard and more prevalent in the FI bikes for some reason I'm led to believe from the UK forums
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I replaced the ones on my 98's dash with Blue T10's from Jaycar a local company :icon_think: