Para045

Try David Silvers Spares as well

That's me unfortunately at 135kg's/300lb's I had to go to an 1100lb spring and 900RR shock to combat bottoming with the missus on the back and put 1.2kg/mm fork springs in to combat bottoming under brakes :icon_wall:

+1 They look good on a Ti XX, and yours is a clean one. +2 I've been looking for a pic of a TiXX with 2 Bros cans as both TiXX's and 2 Bros cans aren't all that common in Oz Looks great mate, I reckon these cans in a hi-rise setup would be even better

Yeah I've tried 91RON ULP, 95RON PULP & 98RON Ultimate in my 98XX and found no real difference except the cost, one particular brand of 95 PULP does seem to give a whisker better economy and run slightly smoother but that is possibly just a coincidence I usually alternate between 91 and 95 depending on what is better value around the stations but don't bother with the 98 as all it does is lighten my wallet

You could always do what I and some others have done and fit a rebuilt 900RR shock :icon_think: At your weight you may not even need to get it re-sprung I got one rebuilt and re-sprung and it worked out less than 1/2 the price of getting a Penske and ~1/3 the price of an Öhlins I am in Australia and shit costs more over here so it may be different there

Just got a PR3 front fitted this morning, was pissing down with rain so didn't get much of a chance to really push it

A few people over here in Oz have used the PR3's and quite like them, similar to the 2's but better in the wet and slightly more mileage

Not in Oz We don't have "running lights" on our vehicles generally, maybe a few imports but that's it and not bikes :icon_think:

Pity all the picture links are dead in that thread

When I put in my shim I had an aluminium shim with a hole in it and actually just undid the bolt on the bottom into the triangle plates to give me enough room to get the shim on

I had the issue with my indicators being slow to start or not starting at all in cold weather (<8c) so I took apart the LH switch block, cleaned it and re-lubed and put it back on and it worked fine Just noticed the other day that my LH indicator light was flashing quick and found a LH rear globe was gone, need to fix it

Yes, I got mine resprung for my weight but didn't get the damping done and it worked OK

Yeah I have one lie that on mine, was put on by original owner, have ridden without it and can't feel a difference I believe the mount that I and Joe have was only for the carbed XX's and isn't made anymore

I used to use Regina when I had a MX bike years ago and they were OK, but a few people have said for large road bikes the DID or EK are better Yeah I've had a single nozzle SO for as long as I've had this chain/sprockets and I think from memory I've only adjusted the chain twice other than when tyres go on and they were like 1/2 a turn Fuck all stretch or wear so far on my Stealth/DID combo

You'll love them! Then again, I'm kinda partial to them. Yep On my 2nd set after my crash last year and love them Pity the pillion ones never worked out :icon_think:

Goat Herder, While I can't be sure, I suspect that its your non-traditional service provider. Due to the nature of their service, the IP is most probably dynamic. When your computer sends a request after a period of inactivity, its possible that your IP is reassigned. The board software sees that as a security violation, and denies access by terminating your login. At that point you have to log in again from your new-to-you IP address, the board accepts your request, and you're signed back in. And THAT I can't fix Hmm that's interesting :icon_think: I've been experiencing the same thing for quite a while now :icon_wall: I wouldn't call Oz's biggest provider Telstra a "non-traditional service provider" though, even if they do use Dynamic IP's :icon_think:

Pretty sure I've seen that sort of paint scheme on one of those Chinese fairing kits

Yep I have 05 forks in my 98, they are the same dimensionally :icon_think:

I think it is partly a case of heat cycles and extremes of temperature that have an effect as R/R and stator problems seem more prevalent in the UK and US where you have very cold weather and extended periods of the bike being idle or on a tender Here in Oz R/R problems are not very common and stator failures are quire rare It seems to be more prevalent where the battery is constantly having to be recharged and the loads are greater on the electrical system

I tried a set of Shinko 005's a couple of years ago after guys in the eastern states of Oz on OzBB.net said they really liked the 003's and they were ~$120 AUD a set cheaper than the Michelin PP/PR combo I was running I went with the 005's as they were more of a ST compound than the 003's and the 003's had fuck all grooves and as I ride in all weather that had me concerned about drainage and grip and also the roads I ride on are quite coarse chip and bumpy and wanted decent life out of them :icon_think: The rear was bald by ~7000km's and the front lasted ~13000km's, the turn in was slower although more progressive than the PP/PR combo, grip was OK when warm but not as good as the PR (and nowhere near the subsequent PR2) when cold but as they only saved me ~$70 AUD a set (everything seems to cost more in West Aus :icon_wall: ) over the Michi's and the Michi's lasted ~12k front and 10k rear they weren't really worth it :icon_nono: Also they weren't as good in the wet as the Michi's either If I could get them as cheap as the guys over east I may have tried the 003's or 009's but have stuck to Michelin's, now on PPures front and back

FYI - No Bird came with ABS They fiddled with the balance on the LBS but that was it :icon_think: Probably a good think to start on a slower coloured one and then work your way up to a Ti Bird

Yeah he'd be struggling to get that for it here in Oz

Like THIS? or this? or maybe this? or this?

What happens when "riding season" is 365 days long?

Yeah I believe the carbed throttle cables are longer but if the Helibars are from a VFR they will be even higher than the VFR bars so the throttle cables of a carbed XX may still be short, I'd heard that the cables from an ST1300 could be used but am not sure The Chinese fairings seem to be a bit hit and miss, some mount up reasonably well with only minor work required and look ~80% of OEM fairings and others seem to be a bit of a nightmare :icon_think: