Redbird

Thanks, I suppose I'm not helping my own cause much here, am I? That's okay, .40 guys won't listen to all that bullshit, anyway.

Dude, like you're not already on about a dozen lists. What's one more gun? The difference in terminal ballistics between modern defensive handgun cartridges isn't as great as some believe, even when you bump up to .45ACP and the vaunted 10mm. They all suck compared to just about any centerfire rifle. Shot placement trumps everything. Use a round that you shoot well and meets FBI penetration standards, the rest is for arguing on the internet about.

Yeah, shouldn't be a problem and I'm in no hurry. My neighbor just got done fondling it and I have a feeling he's at home right now googling "Springfield EMP".

That was a hell of a sales pitch, Mike. Everyone just ran out of this thread to shop for a 9mm. I should contact a mod about having that removed. Just busting your balls...I agree with every word and said pretty much the same thing in my last post. There's still .40 s&w guys out there, for them, this is a great gun. It's also a dense little fucker, so recoil isn't as horrible as you'd think for such a small gun.

I had a period where I was trying very hard to like .40 S&W, it just never took. I have enough other handguns in .38, 9mm, .45 and .22 that this thing just unconsciously fell out of the rotation. It's a beautiful gun and it feels great in the hand, but I just don't shoot it. I'd love to pick up the 9mm version, which is probably what any sale money would go toward unless something else distracts me first. The only ring I wear is a wedding ring and I'm left handed, so that's as good a guess as any.

On my '01 there was a fuse bank under the seat, right behind the battery, IIRC. There was also another main fuse (30a?) on the left side of the battery behind the rear cowling.

I'm getting out of the .40 game. It's a beautiful, accurate handgun but I haven't shot it in a over a year. The money can fund something I might actually take out of the safe once in a while. It's had 400-500 trouble free rounds through it. It's for sale locally for $875, same price here but I'll cover shipping and FFL fees on my end.

Step one- check the fuses.

Damn, 1350? That's an impressive number, man, nice work.

I screwed up my back pretty good right before Thanksgiving and am just now getting back to any kind of organized exercise. Previously I had been drifting away from any attempts to build mass and just focusing on flexibilty, core strength and keeping my BF low. I'm leaning even harder that way now, because injuries suck. I've accepted I'm never going to be a huge guy and I'm fine with it. My workouts now consist of 30-45 minutes of stretching/cardio/core stuff (a lot of this is stuff I picked up at martial arts combined with more traditional exercises) followed by 20-30 minutes of lifting. I'm keeping the lifting light, mostly in the 12-15 rep range (x3). I'll do chest and shoulders one day, day off, then legs and back. Lather rinse, repeat. The smaller muscle groups take care of themselves. My goals are less about muscle mass and lifting heavy and more about general fitness these days. If it weren't winter I'd love to get out on the bike more, but the wife just bought an elliptical that we're picking up this weekend. I might actually use the thing on off days until the weather improves a bit. Yeah, I know there's really no workout outlined here, but it's traffic and discussion in a section that could use it.

The GSXR masters are (or at least were, my knowledge is dated) garbage, Vern. You'll see more improvement with the new master than you did with the new calipers. My SV had a GSXR front end with R6 calipers w/Vesrah RJL's and a Brembo (aftermarket, not Yamaha) master and the brakes on that thing were incredible, night and day compared to the stock GSXR setup. For the XX, delink w/5/8" master, braided lines and EBC HH pads will fix you right up.

I think he's talking about replacing the entire harness, the whole bike.

Would the harness from an '02 work?

I'm not in the market, but I think a list of mods would help prospective buyers.

I've repaired damage like that by capping the rotted wood with aluminum and caulking. It's more of a stop gap, but it works. As Furbird stated, what you see is likely a small part of the problem. Is there a metal sill under the rotted parts? If I were you I'd have two plans- one to arrest the visible rot and a longer term plan for replacing the doors and addressing whatever it is you can't see. Replacing a sliding door is pretty low on the difficulty scale, so you're probably just looking at the cost of the doors.

No pics, but good info here- http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=27323 The issue I believe you're referring to definitely involves more than a 2 or 3 pin connector. As you stated, it was mostly a '99-'00 problem in wetter conditions.

Thanks, Joe. Are they >4mm? Good to go.

My manual is long gone, anyone care to post the number? 2002, if it matters...

Okay, looked at ebay and my price seems to be high. I thought these things held their value better than that, my mistake. Lowering to $350 with the vest.

I've worn a 46L or a 48 since I was in my 20's. A 48 usually leaves me some room for layering, but I'm an honest 48 when I'm working out regularly.

I'm intrigued. (I know, this is the For Sale section) Fine, due to my typo an athletic cup will now be included in the sale.

Fully perforated. Will ship with optional Streamliner vest and upgraded CE approved shoulder nad elbow armor. No significant scuffs, tears, damaged or unraveling seams. The finish of the leather is slightly worn at the right shoulder and possibly other locations. I didn't go over it with a magnifying glass. A little shoe polish would probably cover it up but I'll leave that to the potential buyer- I don't want to "conceal" any flaws. It's basically a nicely broken in jacket that will last a lifetime. Oh, and the vest is size 50, not sure how that happened, but they work together just fine. I found that this plus a decent sweatshirt/fleece and an over sized rain cover makes for a pretty versatile setup for weather ranging from 50 and raining up to 90 and sunny. Add a heated vest (I might have one of those for sale, too...) and you can take temps a little lower. Asking $350 + actual shipping costs. More detailed pics upon request.

Yeah, the ST tires are usually more difficult regardless of brand. I somehow got the idea you were talking about Bridgestones in general. Probably a reading comprehension failure on my part but I'm too lazy to review.

I went through a couple sets of 016's on the track bike, never had an issue with changing them. The ones that were always a bitch for me were Avons, they usually took a shitload of weight to balance as well.