Redbird

Everything I've heard or seen indicates the evap canisters go along with the O2 sensors and cats of the CA compliant models. My '01 had none of that crap on it and pulled 138 (corrected) HP bone stock. I've worked on a couple '02 49 state models here that had no evap, cats or sensors, so if it ever was a federal thing it didn't kick in until '03.

Well, my ZX14 was black, so you may be on to something.

No cats on my '01. I was previously under the impression that '02 and up CA models were the only ones you would find equipped with catalytic converters in the U.S., but it seems that extends at least to '01. I'm unaware of any 49 state models equipped with cats or O2 sensors. If your '01 is equipped with O2 sensors, it's either an import or a CA model, which might very well explain the difference in performance.

Not laughing, smiling, I actually kind of dig it. I found out you can get a set of unfinished furniture for around $300. I'm not a big fan of the delta ring setup, but I could see myself making an exception...

Sorry, that probably came off a harsher than I intended. My point was and is you seem to be buying into the image problem of the AR platform. It's a semi-automatic rifle, similar in function to a multitude of semi-automatic rifles that look less "scary" to the uneducated. What you seem to be in the market for is a tool for animal control, it would fit that role very well. I never said a tool is a tool and nothing else, and I certainly never applied that logic to firearms. I'm just pointing out that you've removed a pretty effective tool from your list simply because of its appearance. I'm not clear on what the downside is if you're not breaking any laws, armed is armed to anyone with half a brain...but you know your area better than I. The offer stands on that upper, maybe I could even find a wood hand guard for it

Some you sound like fucking liberals with your feels and shit. It's a tool, if you resent its appearance you're buying into the bullshit that's being sold by those who oppose your right to own that tool. You want a gun that gives you the warm and fuzzies, go for it, I have more than couple. But dismissing a proven effective platform because of it's image is more than a little fucked up coming from this crowd. For the record, an 18-20" AR in .223 would suit your purposes perfectly, and no, I ain't selling, but say the word and I'll build you an upper that will do the job.

I observed no difference in repeatbility or precision, just easier (way easier) to make adjustments. If you're interested in just the micrometer stem let me know, I'm perfectly willing to sell it separately.

Have one, with lever. PM me and we'll work something out.

Just put these up on craigslist and figured I might as well post 'em here as well. Redding deluxe .308 Win three die set w/micrometer seater, excellent condition. This is NOT "competition seater die", it's Redding's standard seater with the micrometer stem added. Standard stem included as well- forum price $75 Lyman Deluxe .223 Rem three die set, excellent condition- forum price $35. Prices are plus actual shipping. Decap pin is missing on the Lyman set, they're $8 for a ten pack on Amazon. I decap in a separate step so I never missed it.

Who knows, he may have been forced to buy a new one. All I know is if that bike has <1k miles on it it, those were some really rough miles. Joe, I agree on the subframe. Wasn't sure if it was my eyes or the perspective of the photo, but something looks fucky.

Fixed that for you. Everything about that ad screams "run away".

If you're looking for an honest 200 mph you're going to need more than a little motor work. FYI, the speedo is way off in the upper range- your 175 indicated is maybe 160 actual. Ping Slyfoxx, IIRC he's had some extensive motor work done and he's out on the west coast, though considerably north of you.

The one I have here is ~27", so you'll have some extra to deal with. I'll get you some pics, but it probably won't be tonight.

Yeah, I have the relay as well. One point, check the harness length on your switch assembly. I know from when I installed a Euro right switch on my '01 that there are significant differences between years in the length of the harness coming off the switch. You could work with too long, too short is going to be a problem.

You can ignore the qualifier. Not many out there can knock out 500+ pushups in a day, regardless of age. Doing it while knocking on the door of 70? Respect.

Yes, and I have a rear brake pedal, too. Going to be pulling some stuff of the bike today, anyway. I'll get the parts in my hand and confirm condition, then we can talk price.

Got one, see your other thread.

Does the clutch fully engage/disengage? If so, it probably doesn't need bleeding. Chasing clutch "feel" on a hydraulic clutch is usually a frustrating experience.

Sorry, I misunderstood earlier and though you were just burning through RR's, not RR's and stators. Weird.

I think you missed a key point in the last post- you're using a higher output stator designed for the demands of the FI equipped models. The voltage regulator's job is to dump extra voltage in the form of heat. You have more extra voltage than you would with the appropriate stator. More voltage, more heat, shorter regulator life.

The purpose is to take the tension off the cam chain. You don't need the tool if you're a little creative.

Once the axle is torqued, snug up the adjustment bolts outward, counter clockwise. There's a bit of play in the adjustment system and snugging up the bolts like this takes out that play.

If Loki doesn't have what you need, let me know.

I have the 42" and it's 42.5" long on the interior.