Redbird

Um, no I didn't :???: I had that one Layne made for the zx12, didn't work on my bike and that's as far as I went. Put down the bong, Goldenboy :razz: Sorry, Ken, I can't help ya :sad: .

Yeah, I was sorry to read about that little incident, at least mine did it in my own garage. Is the towing company or HRCA going to make it right? Sorry if I missed that in another thread.

Nevermind :roll: I went to pull the cap and check it once the bike had cooled down, it was about 1/8 of a turn from completely locked down. Don't know why this hasn't been a problem in the last two or three thousand miles since I last had it off, but it seems to be the logical suspect now. Why is it everytime there's a problem with my bike it turns out to be my own fault? Fuckin' Honda.....you'd think it'd give me something to fix every so often without making me look like a jackass :???:

So I mount my new MEZ4 for the trip out east and decide to go scrub it in, don't have much time so I head to the local Cineplex parking lot to do some figure eights and such (it's Illinois, feel my pain). A fifteen minute romp around here to warm the tires up, then about twenty minutes of dicking around at the lot at 20-30 mph, first gear, then half a mile home. I park the bike, take of my gear, and then all of the sudden- gurgle, gurgle, hiss- steam comes rolling off the bike and I have about a pint of water on my garage floor. I turn the key back on, temp reads 220. Pull the fairing off, it came from the overflow on the resevoir. Start the bike back up, idle it for five or ten minutes- temps hover around 215, won't go any higher once the fan is running, and it won't repeat it's misbehavior. It's about 70 degrees out, but I don't think that's a factor- I've seen 248 on this thing without any boil over. So what the hell? Bad radiator cap? Figures it's three business day before neXXt- anybody have a spare cap they're not using? Or any other ideas what this might be?

Not stock, looks alot like Warchild's mod- http://www.superblackbird.com/RadGuardMod.cfm

The watterwetter route is cheaper, as it's an additive (use a small amount) rather than a replacment for everything in you cooling system. I dropped 5-15 degrees with the watterwetter. The hotter the motor gets the more it seems to help. Let us know how the engine ice performs, it might be worth the extra $$ Draining the system- -One drain bolt on the bottom of the waterpump (remove left fairing) -One drain bolt on the left side front of the cylinder block (fairing's already off, cool ) -Drain the resevoir under the seat/gas tank. Just pull off the small hose mounted by the radiator cap (remove right fairing) and toss it in a bucket.

Or sometimes it's bank angle sensor. I think Joe's right in this case.

Sorry, my bad :sad:

Got high speed internet? http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1246 :grin:

Easy enough to check- have you measured your sag?

I'm confused too :???: . Why change the oil weight that much with the stock valving? This is just a spring swap, no valves? Seems it would be waaay underdamped with 2.5 weight in there The answer to that question IMO, would be 10w, which is stock. You don't have to buy it from Honda, any 10w fork oil will do.

FIRE IN THE HOLE! :50cal: :flame:

Can't explain the blown fuse, which probably caused your first incident, but the second overheating- you were probably low on coolant ("large pool of anti-freeze in the street"). The system only holds around a gallon, so boiling off/spilling any signifigant amount is going to be have an big effect on the cooling sytem's effectiveness. Fill it up again, bleed it properly (per Dave :razz: ), and see how it does. Bigger problem may be figuring out why your fuse blew in the first place.

Only reason you know that is because your mom was driving it. I recommended adding straight to the system because you might not end up using all the coolant you mix it with. More accurate to put the four oz. right in the bike, 'cause you know the total capacity of the cooling system. But that's just me........ :wink:

Four ounces take care of the whole system, even if you don't end up adding that much new mix (instructions say 1oz. per quart). I have no idea how much a capful might be.........

Caber- you need to put the URL between the "img" thingies, this is it- http://ca.geocities.com/caberxx2000/aimg_1401.jpg Good pic, might need resizing, but I wouldn't complain

Does that mean that I'm wasting my time torqing my valve caps on? :razz: :grin: :razz:

I think a lot of guys don't bother with that. I'm kinda anal, so I did- You can pull the "key" out of the new one and use it to turn and lock the old one before removal. Keep in mind when you pull the key out of the new CCT, it will release the spring and extend the tensioner, so you'll have to "rewind" it before installation. This adds about three minutes to the whole process. You can also use the diagram in the manual to fabricate your own key.

'cause notching the washers is even easier, bonehead. Moderators- I think his avatar is oversized. Should probably be removed.

What Chris said, and a zip tip around the fork leg makes this gravy, even solo :cool:

This requires removing the right fairing, but works really well- Remove the overflow hose from the nipple by the radiator cap, hold it level with the line on the resevoir tank (this is about even with the forwardmost bolt on the tailpiece). pour in your mix until it come out the hose, then put it back together. You may even be able to do this withour pulling the fairing. I've never tried, I've seemed to have it off everytime it's come up.

He's already ordered a Mototek undertail, Mac. Bastard apparently has more money than god- he's already spent more than me on mods, and he's only had the thing for a month :???: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin:

Yeah, you'll be bleeding the center piston more than the line with the center valves, but you've gotta do it. Should only be six, though.

If you're talking about the bleed valves, all of them. Four up front, two in back. A vacuum bleeder makes this about a 15 minute job, if you don't have one, I'd suggest making the $30 investment- well worth the money. You don't. Just install some small balloons with rubber bands at the end of any open lines, this does a great job of keeping the fluid off of everything while you yank out the lines (this is advice from Seb when I did mine, works good).

We checked your sag, Jer, yer just fine . I'm pretty sure your new ones wereslightly longer than stock, because if you recall, we used the stock spacers first just for the hell of it and got lucky with the sag- no ajustments needed. Quit worrying and go ride.