h2o player

How much for the corbin and beattle bags?

What is the condition of the seat? Pictures?

PM sent on the windscreen Don

Is this a 1 or 2 person set up?

Keep the bird. The C-14 is a great bike. I picked one up in June and I love it BUT it is not the BB. @ $3800 you should just keep it in the garage. You will regret selling the BB.

Do you still have this? How come your selling it. Did you find something better:-)

These are just well nuts (brand name) Your replacments are normal. THe stocker are probabaly just distorted after having been installed / compressed over the years.

I would never expect a 20hp gain from slip ons alone. I just came accross the post and read through it. Just thought it odd that it went as far as it did and then just died. I have to say I like the look of the pipes....Not $1200 worth though. Pretty sure I could spend that much in a manner that would insure a better return than 3hp.

Eric, it has been a year since you posted on this. Did you give up?

Go for the electro sport it plus in. All you need is longer bolts. Make sure you get the upgraded version.

I checked the voltage with high beams on 50 mile trip. 13.78 @ 2500 rpm, 13.9 @ 4000+ rpm. Sits between 13.97 and 14.1 with high beams off. We have had warm temps this week and I put on over 600 miles with out having to put it on the charger. It sure is much more enjoyable when your not worried about the bike cutting out!

97-98 regulator, my bike is a 98. The regulator is overkill for the need but it is better than the alternative. I upgraded the lights when I baught the bike. You will have to check with Eric. He provided to me at no cost. I had baught my first regulator from them. Eric just steped up, never even asked for money.

Take a look at my post from earlier today. I have delt with the same issues since I baught the bike. Call Eric at Electro sport. He has your solution. Pics and contact info in my other post.

I have been dealing with the typical Black Bird charging woes. I swapped batteries, put in an new regulator and finaly swapped out the stator (at the advise of a local stealer) Still had problems. Any time the outside temp was over 70 deg the bike did not charge well. I had to keep the bike on a charger every night. I called electro sport and talked with Eric. He was well aware of the Black Bird charging problems. He admits that even their replacment regulator is a direct copy of the factory regulator and has the same problems. Eric custom built me a new regulator good for 500 watts! It is twice the size of the stock regulator but still bolts into the factory location using the factory holes. All I had to do was change out the stock bolts with something about 5mm longer. It is really tight on the clearace of the tail body but it does fit. Eric says to give him a call if you are interested in one of the modified regulators. Eric Hesterman Research and Development ElectroSport Industries 3803 Oceanic Dr. Ste 201 Oceanside, CA 92056 PH: +1 (760) 842-8300 FX: +1 (760) 842-8306 mailto:ehesterman@electrosport.com www.electrosport.com

I had the same issue. Check your charging system and make sure your battery can handle a load.

So... you did pull it out of the factory filter and put it into the groove of the K&N, right? That's the way the '97-8's are, and I've been into several XX's, but they have all been carb'd, and I know the air boxes are different... Mike anyone have to rejet their bike because of the K&N to compensate for the leaner mix? or did you experience a flat spot at high RPM afterwards? just curious.. I have a 98 and the K&N works great. No fit problems at all. I doubt you would HAVE to rejet, but rejetting even with the stock filter and stock exhaust will help with the flat spot. I have stated my thoughts about rejetting a stock bike before. Rejetting for me anyways is too much work to be worth it. after installing an exhaust and K&N the a/f mixture is pretty far off and i would suggest rejetting but i guess to simply answer your question yes rejetting will help your flat spot, and no i dont think just installing a K&N will move that flat spot up in the rev range any. These are just my opinions, others will likely have different opinions

I've run thru 4 sets of the M1's. They rock. $160 a pair how can you go wrong. Try them you will like them.

I have run the M1's for my last 4 sets. I usualy get about 5 to 6 k before I can see lincons head. I'll change them than as I ride in the rain frequently. Great tire. Not a track tire but I'm not riding on the track. I just bought a set of the Diablos today. Most the reveiws I read were good. I'll post after I get some miles on them.

Check to make sure the plug in the rectifier is fully seated. Check for 12v+ on the red/white wire with the key turned on. Make sure you have 12v- on the green wire (ground). You should see 14.7 to 15.5 volts at 5000 rpm. over 14 at 3000 rpm. 13.7 is to low. The stator is easy to check if you have and know how to use an ohm meter. The 3 yellow wires in the rectifier plug are coming from the stator. First check to see if any of them read anything to ground. Put one lead to ground and the other to the yellow wires one at a time.They should read open just like you were holding the probes in the air. If you get any reading other than this you need to look further. Most likley this will confirm a bad stator. Next you need to check between each of the yellow wires. Each leg should read close to a dead short (.22 to .26 ohms) Try all combinations of the yellow wirews. They should all read the same. If you see high resistance or a big differance in the reading this to would indicate a bad stator. Unless your new battery was completly discharged it should be fine. Trickle charge the battery and test the battery either with a small load on it like a test light or after it has been off the charger for 10 minets or more. You shold see 12.6+ volts.

I noticed that the shop manual tells you that if you pull the front calibers (like when you change the tires) to replace the pivot and caliber mounting bolts. I have swaped several sets of tires and never had an issue. Any thoughts?

230mph is a bit of a reach. At 10800 rpm that would give him 207 mph. Not to metion I don't think the bike would have enogh power. 18/37 would theroeticaly give him 233mph but like I said the bike would not have the grut to get it there.

Alright you scared me off on the 48. I ordered a 46 this morning. I comute 100 miles a day and the milage coment hit home. The milage is not all that great as it is. I think I just need to pick up an R1 to satisfy my urges

I swaped out the front to a 16 and it is a whole lot better than it was. I still find myself wanting more. I am thinking about swaping the rear to a 48. Have any of you tried this combo? Toughts..opinions?

Well just order the FACTORY Pro jet kit and a 16 tooth front sproket. I know this bike should keep me smiling once it is sorted out.

I picked up a bird last month with 7k on the odometer. It looked to be in pretty good shape accept it was missing on one cylinder and smelled like it was running rich. I took it right from his house 10 miles down the road to Gervarsi's in Everett, WA. They pulled the carbs down and sure enough one of the float needles was stuck open and flooding out #2 cylinder. The bike runs stong and solid with little in the way of flat spots. I am suprised that I am not able to loft the front wheel with throttle only, I have to use some clutch if I want to bring the wheel up. Is this normal? My last bike an 01 FZ1 with Ivans jet kit and a yosh slip on had the front wheel up on demand any time I was in 1st or 2nd and came up with ease in 3rd and 4th when I was running over 7k. It's not that I run around riding an unicycle I just like to be able to be on the edge and let the conditions dictate how much throttle I put down. I never expected the bird to leave me wanting. I've looked around and do not see much in the way of Jet kits available. Any sugestions? I have run 6 tanks of fuel through it so far and I am seeing 34mpg consistantly. Looking around the forum I see much higher numbers?