sykotek-xx

Looks like this:

You can take out the middle extender piece and bolt the blinkers right to the fender. What I did. There is one bolt that holds the blinker to the fender. Take it out and remove the blinker. Then there is another bolt that holds the stalk to the blinker, it's inside the stalk and you can barely see it. Take that one out and remove the stalk (you have to unplug the blinker under the seat. Cake.). Then reattach the blinker to the bike using that smaller bolt and a washer. You'll see how to put it back together. It's easy and looks tons better. Now the blinker will not be held in place from rotation as well as it was with the stalk. I had no problem in 4000 miles of riding with the single bolt/screw in place. However what I did now is just put a small amount of clear silicone on the base of the blinker and retightened. Silicone holds tight but is easy to remove and lcean off if you have to. I'll try to find a pic.

Could be wrong but I thought that the rear plate light was the white plug when I was hacking around back there....

Yeah, Instead of Off/Park/On you can make an Off/EVADE/On EVADE would kill everything except the head light including the brakes.

I'm definitely going to try this next week. I'm FI though. Dont know what difference that will make.

That's hot.

Also use the 'not automatic' and just rebuild the system from scratch as a non cali bike.

Instead of disconnecting and plugging the lines, try just removing the components first and leaving the lines in place. I am talking out of my ass here because I've never had my tank off and never looked at the schematics so.... If there is a tube that connects to a component, then another tube from the component back to the engine, just remove the component (coffe can, etc) and join the tubes together. Perhaps this will help with the apparent 'vacuum balance' issue. I am going to be taking my bike apart soon for a good once over and "get to know you' session, and I'm pretty sure it's a cali bird so I'll be working along with you on this. I am off from work all next week so that is proabbly when I will get to the wrenching. Between the two of us maybe we can come up with a solution.

One more note I just thought of... (kinda unrelated) Everyone bitches about cali emissions. Ever been to the grand canyon? Hundreds and hundreds of miles away, and 30 years ago you could see celar across the rim to the distant peaks. I was there a few years ago and there is not half the visibility there was back then. There are landscape photos of the horizon you are supposed to be able to see, and the most distant stuff is blocked now by haze, and the closer stuff is not nearly as clear as it should be. Cause? Pollution from CA blowing east and hanging in the sky there. Seeing something like that makes you understand why they are doing something and kinda glad they are. Maybe 30 years form now the sky will clear again. I am not a tree hugger hippie, but you can't argue with the facts.

Also, a lot of bikes sold in other states were the cali edition, so you might not need the miles if you have the cali emissions crap on it. I know mine does and my bike was bought new in PA.

The cluster comes off easy. Six bolts for the windshield then three for the cluster. Tight fit to get to the fastners but not difficult. Hey, you must get like 30 days or so to register, right? I put 4000 on my bike in 2 months, if you put your mind to it you can get that in 30 days no sweat. And do it right you'll come away with a couple iron butt certificates too. The speedo is electronic, actuated by a hall sensor on the countershaft. One option is to stick it on the center stand, put it in sixth and burn a dozen tanks of gas or so. I think it gets about 25-30mph in 6th at idle, so that's only 6 days of constant running to clock up 4000. Good luck.

And to answer the inevitable question, no my headlight is not purple, I think my Kodak digital just couldn't handle being held in front of 6000 lumens of goodness and the optics overloaded. The light in reality is very very white, with a slight tint of light ice blue. Much more white than blue. Not purple like the picture though. On the pavement it looks white. On reflective white signs you can detect the blue tint.

The group buy is over now, but I think another forums has one going on. Someone will chime in. Here it was $185 or thereabouts for the 5000K kit, which included both low and high beams. I got the 6000K burners for about $8 more. Never loked back. Best single thing I have done to the bike so far. I commute to work third shift, so I leave for work at 10:30pm and ride 65 miles through the pine barrens and rural NJ. The stock headlight was better than the one in my car, but the HID.... you just have to see it. On a lonely back road, with the high beam on, you can really see as far as the road goes. Usable light for at least 1/4 mile and reflections off markers and the like for as far as you can see. Even just the low beam is a huge improvement alone, but if you're going to do it, do it right and do both lamps. XX is nice because the low and high beams are separate single filament bulbs, so you don't lose any functionality or have to buy the expensive 9004 servo operated "dual filament" burner. Which reall is just a single burner with a servo operated light baffle that blocks the high beam pattern until you hit it. The folks here had awesome luck with the seller we dealt with. Ordered mine on a Friday, shipped next day from Hong Kong and had them Tuesday (shipped Monday). Worked perfect and I can't recommend them enough. See my avatar for more info.

Yup same reason you have to enclose the entire carb when you add a turbo, or use a downdraft supercharger to draw more air through the venturi instead of pushing more air down.

what the hell you need a fender for anyway?

Do that, it's a lost art nowadays.

Your battery is dead.

Ebay.

Yeah my speedo is about 10% off (all stock gearing and tires). At 100mph on the GPS, my dash reads 110. 65 on the GPS is 72 on the dash.

If the fuse isn't blowing then the fuse isn't the problem. If you hooked the HID to the high beam leads and it still flickers, but the high beam halogen works fine, it's not the leads. Sounds like a bad ballast, maybe more sensitive to voltage than it should be. Keep us posted. Mine started flickering horribly as I noted in an earlier post here somewhere, but it was the leads that had popped out of the honda factory socket.

Do you have one or both beams? If you have both beams are both doing it? If you have only the low beam or high beam, what is the halogen counterpart doing?

Don't be jealous you guys.

Quote of the week there.... By the way, it's also used for increased visibility in the dark, in addition to intentionally blinding other people.

Yeah like I just said. :stickpoke:

The trick barton mentioned works with FI, I tried it a few times. The bike does crank for a second longer than normal as the pump primes, but the bulb only switches on once. Another option is to turn on the key and let the bulb warm up. Then once the bulb is at full temp (about 20 seconds) start the bike. The on/off cycling is not harmful to the bulb when it is at full operating temp. It is only detrimental when you turn it on and it has to ignite and warm from a cold state. At least that's what I've read about HID.