redxxrdr

http://www.vesseltools.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/ball-grip/225/set/flypage_sku.tpl.html Here is a link to a Vessel site. The set of four " mr. Microphone" screw drivers have gone up some. I use them daily, and hard. Much of the AMERICAN stuff from China that I work on likes the JIS tools. Another benefit of this forum is that I learn new things every day. And you should see the tools used on old VW in THE SAMBA site. There are some crazy tools to torque gland nuts and axel nuts.

I think it was Anna who said that a Ducati clutch sounded like two skeletons fornicating in a rubush bin😃 Chas, Your shop has to pull the clutch slave cylinder to get to the front sprocket. A good shop would have cleaned the clutch rod while there. I remove my wind screen when changing brake and clutch fluids . It makes it easier to get to everything. And a tool suggestion. Find a JiS Japan Industry standard ( I think) Philips screwdriver. Mine were made by Vessel, ordered online. Two Philips , two straight, about $18.00 a few years back. The correct screwdriver will really help remove tight screws without stripping.

I always love your mod threads. Nice work. I have been reviewing your HID shield post recently. Even have my spare bulb and ballast out for a look see. Thanks for making things that I can copy.

That is a really good deal for a good chain. Make sure that it is a rivet type, not a clip type. I spend the money for o ring or x ring. With that mileage, I would change the countershaft ( front) sprocket too. OEM has a rubber damper built into it. Aftermarket usually don't. My last was a solid steel, and it still runs quiet. Rear sprockets are bigger, take less load, and can be used again if money is tight. Inspect it well. No use wearing out a new chain on old sprockets. I agree with Mike, that chain looks worn. They should not lift off the sprocket like that. I bet you will be surprised that a smooth bike gets even smoother after a new chain and sprockets. A lot of the service on the XX is easy. Get a torque wrench, and sockets for the rear axle. Most chains stretch the first 500 miles or so, then stabilize. Use the torque specs in the manual Joe sent you. I think the rear axle is 69 foot lbs.

Looks like a audiovox cruise to me. No fair posting a nice clean bike after my dirty bike post. Forks look to be stock height. But if you had seen my SV when I bought it, then you would understand my concern. I would also suspect the tire.

This is my first attempt to attach a photo on the new board. This is the control for the cs100 cruise. You mentioned backlight. If there is backlight, then there is power. You then need a vacuum source ( and a accumulator with check valve). Plus there is a connection from the cruise to the throttle linkage. The connection MUST use a ball chain, like used on ceiling fan. My ball chain came off my cruise one year at Racer XX. As to wobble, 21k miles is about the limit for a OEM front tire. A worn one, or cheap replacement could be the problem. Also look at how much of your fork extends above the clip ones. Mine are not stock, but kinda, sort of close. Another lowering trick, is to drop the forks. But this can decrease the suspension rake so much that you can get wobble. Or worse, tank slap. This is the same reason that we only put 10mm of shim in the rear. Post images of your tire, cruise, clip on's etc. At the very least we can get the response ...... Your Tires Are Cupped.

Seriously, Riding position. Elbows in, closer to your chest. But considering your other bikes, this may not be the problem. mechanically, tire balance, or worn chain. Chain wear will sneak up on you. Just one or two sticking links will give you a small vibration. But you won't really know until you change it. I did a chain and countershaft sprocket change recently. I had forgotten how smooth the XX is.

D.I.D x... Chain, 18 tooth sprocket. Was in the green when I installed it. The only problem is that I have to adjust my speed reference. 60 in a 55 was good for the first 14 years that I owned her. Now 60 indicated in a speed trap IS 60.

The clutch rod can be cleaned while doing a chain replacement. Rich did a good thread on how to get to the chain.http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=53782 I didn't notice a post of the miles on your bike. I typically get 18-22K miles on a chain with fair clean and lube. I pushed one to 28K, and it made a flap flap noise, but was not at the stretch limit,or pumping out orange rust. If you do find a chain bad, make sure that you replace it with a 530, or bigger I guess. And make sure that it is a rivet chain, not a keeper clip.

Dave, You are right, HID beam pattern on the XX sucks. I a guilty of having them installed on my low beam. But they really do help you see in rural settings or twistys. I think that Eric did a post a few years ago about a shield for the HID bulb. This collimated the beam, but still gave impressive HID output. It would be nice if there was a cheap source for those shields.

A couple of thoughts. My 01 clunked on bumps when my fender was loose. 4 Allen head screws to tighten. Or pull it off and see if the clunk goes away. My poor little SV was lowered by pulling the spacers above the fork springs out. There was zero preload, and it bottomed out, even with easy braking. A stock XX has a soft suspension, but the front won't dive too far. if it dives allot, then the forks might be worth a look. Edit, another mod that we often do is put a 10 mm shim under the top mount of the rear shock. This makes the bike turn in faster, but it raises the rear more than 10mm. I'm only a bit taller than you. The mob helped the steering, but it is harder to park or back up. It would be worth looking at the shock to see if the shim is there. Caution: don't go more than 10 mm. Cruise control. A few of us added Audiovox CS100 cruise to our bikes. It is a full cruise, with a small controller console that is usually mounted on the handle bars. A led on the console should come on when you push the on button. If this is the style that you have, I would look at the light first (power ). Next would be vacuum connections, or the cable and ball chain from the servo to the throttle assembly. These cruise work well, but were not made for motorcycles. Each installation was custom, (or rigged). The audiovox manual is available on line, if that is what you have. And most important. WELCOME

Do me a favor if you go with wrap. Write down your water temp at a given normal day before the wrap and after. I have always wondered how much heat is going back into the oil filter and block with the unwrapped headers. Probably not a real issue for someone in mild climates, or who has limited stop and go traffic. But I live in the south. These bikes don't like to idle. Plus, my 01 has a digital gauge, which gives me information that I don't really want to know.

Does the overflow bottle fill when hot, then go low when cool? I had crud under the cap seal that would prevent the coolant from returning to the radiator. The overflow bottle would overflow when riding, so I wouldn't see it leaking. Daughters car had same problem, but it was a cap with old stiff seals

Put the sidestand down with it on and see if the fi light pulses. Count the pulses and post . Last week mine started doing a 8 count. The throttle position sensor plug was a little loose. Reseated it and so far, so good

Eric, Some forums post a gas mileage increase going to the Mosfet regulator. Something tells me that you keep track of that type of stuff. Post up results if you see an increase. I really need to get by the post office to get mine and install it. Thanks for the pictures.

Matt, I did lots of two up riding with my kids at those young ages. They really do seem to nod off on the back of a bike. I found that the best trips were done with a second rider who could keep an eye on my pillion. A horn blast, or a flash of the following light would alert me if I had one falling asleep. Just like distance riding, take many breaks, and work up on the distance. Get the kids good gear, and take pictures. These are great memories to be made.

I just purchased a Mercury Carb sync tool from Saber Cycle . Directions are limited, but I understand the basics. My question is, would it be a good idea to put RTV around the resevoir rubber cap? I added a couple lines of RTV around the tube supports to make them more sturdy. And since it is using a toxic metal, I figured sealing the resevoir except for the vent cap would be a good idea? Any thoughts? Thanks, Craig

1. Didn't think about it...just remembered I needed to get more. Sorry. 2. Odds are I would spend the whole weekend and completely forget that I needed to get some more. :icon_redface: For some reason I didn't have your page bookmarked at work....and I paid 3x at much...DOH! Yes getting them from John at Racer XX is easy. But forgetting that I put them in my trailer box for two years sucked

I remember when Pazzo's first came out. They were just the lever. Our group buy came from a guy who made specialized blocks that let them mount to the XX. Now the real Pazzo's and the knockoffs are made for many different bikes.

Eric, I agree, maybe even more than 15mm. Hard to tell without knowing what shock is really there. I grabbed my camera, and took some reference pictures of my shock and compared it to those on Ebay. Looks like a 1300 Busa shock. The good news is that a stock Busa shock would have a 700 lb/in spring, and some charts that I found show 650-700 lbs required for a 200lb rider on a SV shock. So I might be close. I know that damping and rebound would be different for the SV, but at least I can adjust with this shock. I have downloaded a Busa operator manual and plan to set the shock to baseline Busa adjustments. I know it's apples and watermellons, but it is a start. I found one old thread that showed ride height differences from a stock shock to a different one. A 636 I think. There was a pretty drastic change. Problem is, he didn't put a point of reference for his measurements. Just, " I picked a point on the engine and made these measurements". I will put a tape measure under the seat and watch for a Gen 1 SV to measure. Johns is a Gen 2 and they seem to have changed frames and linkages for Gen 2. Thanks guys for the info. It is getting better. Craig

Joe, It's been years since I bought a set, but Wiss was always what was used by the home builders I know. A quick search seems to indicate that they are still made in America. I went out to my shop to look at mine and found them under the bench, in the dirt. Kids They still cut, but are so rusty that I wouldn't use them on aluminum any more. I don't think you would have a problem with Wiss now. But at $33.00 a piece $100.00 for left, right, and straight is a little pricy.

Yeah, I wish I had a OEM shock, but they are supposed to be worse than a OEM XX shock. I measured Rake today and found it at 28 degrees. That's using a 6 inch digital level on a high quality Georgia built garage floor. I lowered the forks in the tripple about 6mm and am reading 25 degrees. The 6mm puts the tubes just above the 5mm setting used on the naked SV. I figure that my true measurement is + - 3 degrees. It certainly turns in better than it did. I bought the fork upgrade from Rick at Cogent. This is a 01 SV S and Racetec uses 20 weight. This is my first time into a set of forks, so I will be learning. I have been lurking SVrider for a while. My setup is a mixture of Racetec and SV rider information. It's a start until I can save up the funds for an aftermarket shock. Thanks guys.

OK, I'm still working on this little SV 650. I put in .95 springs, emulators set to 3.5 turns, and 20 weight oil at 130 mm. There is a BIG difference in how the bike works on the road and in braking. BUT.... The bike has had a different rear shock added in the past. I think GSXR 1000. Searches show that lots of people do this, but most suspension guys say that the shock is 5mm shorter, and undersprung due to a different position on the swingarm pivot. I don't have funds to do a penske/ohlins rear right now. So I want to first get the bike adjusted with what I have. I could just drop the forks 5mm in the tripples, but I don't think that will get be back to the real SV neutral setup. I have thought about finding a flat place to stand the bike, and measure rake with a digital level. Then adjust the fork position to get back to the factory rake settings. I can then check rear SAG and see what I have. I don't have the origional shock. Does this sound like a plan? Is there a easier, and better way? My goal is to be safe, and better than stock. Track days are once or twice a year. I'm old and slow, and don't really know a good setup from a fair setup. The bike will be used more for my kids to learn, and a lighter play bike than the XX. Thanks, Craig

It is the fastest color.