arcticflipper

Flush the motor. With engin flush or diesel etc. Maybe take it into the dealership - first service should be included? Not too sure there, With us it is. Oh and normally they do change the plugs, or check them and a few other parts that might need to be tightened.

As mentioned here by quite a lot of people, If you drive the bike with a faulty or leaking oil filter or seal you will notice it right away! - Redbird you even said that you noticed the same thing .... So now why the nice comments with regards to checking the oil filter??? I must say that I have never come accross a loose oil filter or a piched o-ring that caused a drip - this has always caused a serious oil spill. So if it is the oil filter, I apologize. This is definitely a first for me. Like I said the oil is under a lot of pressure, and this is why it looks like a waterfall even if there is only a small little problem with the filter or o-ring. Have come accross a small oil leak - line on a GL, where the head gasket was damaged - due to customer not listening after a motor rebuild.

You did drive the bike... If it is a oil filter that was leaking, it would've coted the front wheel, motor and rear wheel with oil. The oil pressure is very high, and it will blow a stream past the filter. I don't think it is the oil filter, even if the o-ring on the filter is not sealing properly, it will still look like a waterfall when the motor is running. I'd start with trying to find the oil leak, elsewhere.

1. Not that often but also depending on your ride style and the road conditions. 2. Well normally when you get to a point where you need to keep on adjusting the chain, you kinda should know that it is now time to erplace the chain. Look at the chain, if there are any damaged links, look also at the wear pattern on the chain. If you can see any discoulering on the chain, brass type colour showing. Also look at the sprocket - rear - teeth worn or disformed. I've found that if you need to tension the chain often, you need to put the bike on the centre stand, tension the chain to the correct tension, and then slowly turn the rear wheel. If you find that there is any spot where the chain is either too tight, or too loose - you need to replace the chain. This means that either the sprocket is no good anymore, or the chain is damaged at a certain point - stretched Normally when you change a chain you need to replace the sprockets too, I've found that the rear sprocket normally has to be replace, It all depends on the riding style - a lot of guys on here suggest that you replace the front sprocket, and keep the rear. The sprocket and chain wears in together, and forms according to each other. This is the reason for replacing a sprocket or both with the chain. Else you might not be able to get the chain seated correctly onto the sprockets. 3. Change the oil to a better type - full synthetic or Putoline semi-synthetic. Gear noises is normally a sign that there might be serious problems on the way, or that a service is due- the oil isn't doing it's job anymore. The above mentioned info is not carved in stone, and there might be other factors involved for this. I can not hear the noise the bike makes from where I am. Thus use these only as suggestions please.

And fuckiing IDIOT award for the week goes to: ME!! Loose battery terminals will acuse funny things, won't they.... LOL Thanks for all the input, problem is now fixed. I will definitely find out how to use a multi-meter, and get myself one. Tested the voltage and all the other things that needs to be tested, and they all were more than fine. Until i got to the battery......

OK the cleaner didn't help, still have this problem where the bike cuts out . Have just checked the ECU after I cleared it last night, and there is no problems showing now. No TP sensor errors. I have noticed that this problem is more often when I drive bumpy roads, thus a loose connector or a broken HT lead is my guess. Will check all the connectors, and also pull all the plugs to have a look. Might even be a faulty kill switch? The guys from Honda has informed me though that they have never before sold a throttle body unit for the XX, or ever had to work on a TP sensor. Is there any other place that I should start looking into?

Official idiot of the week award goes to ------- Fucking me! Took the XX in to Honda, to let them have a look and let me know if there is anything wrong. The techie shorts out the ECU, and ..... NOTHING? FI lights stay on, no flickering nothing. Sooooooo now I'm standing there trying to explain to the guy what happened, and then it hits me.... I've recently filled up the gas tank, and seeing how we are running short on unleaded now, I most prob did get some nice free shit with the gas i poured..... Well Got some injector cleaning and added this to the gas, will see if it runs better. The techie didn't have a clue what the speedohealer was, or what it does.... had to laugh out loud at this. He even called out the workshop manager befor they finaly gave up and asked me what it was..... " Sorry sir byt this thingy does not show on our microfiches???? Iz dat supposed to b there?? " :twisted: :shock:

Well seeing how it is X-mas - guess that's what i'll be getting for myself. Now to find out how the thing works....

Checked the ECU and FI light error codes, it flashed 8 times = tp sensor according to the Honda workshop manual. Have any of you had this problem? It is very intermittand, but the last 2 days I have had the bike die on me. The entire motor cuts off very quickly, when I pull the clutch in between gear shifts. Once I let the gear out, it runs smooth, pulls very hard - no problems felt or performance depreciation noticed. I am batteling to get the TP connector off / unplugged, is there any special way of doing this? Should I just take it to a dealer and get the TP unit replaced? I do not have a voltage tester that I can test the current, resistance etc. according to the honda manual. How often does this problem come up? Could it be something else? 2002 XX with 57 000 km Have also noticed that when the bike is running, the throttle response seems a bit slower than what it normally was - is this due to the tp sensor

Must aggree on the language barrier here, for any newbie or anyone for that mater that has never really gone into so much depth with regards to suspension and certain upgrades to bikes, this could become very confusing very quickly. I've never had to look into shocks or suspension setups, and have always been happy with the stock setup. But now since I've started to explore the capabilities of the XX, and getting all the info from this forum I can see why there is a need to do certain upgrades and changes. I can also understand why a lot of readers will look at the posts, and get the impression that you only need to do one thing, instead of looking further into this and researching the entire solution. I think this is a great + for the forum, the guys out there can see that the people on here really have the knowledge, and can easily mistake a half solution for a complete one. Because the majority of people on here have the knowledge, they only need half a word to understand the solution. While for newer members that's still a long way off. But then it is still your duty to make sure that you understand what is talked about before you try to do anything!!!! I think the best and most likely only solution to this would be to test both the products and then make the decision. Unfortunately due to costs involved, it would be greatly appreciated if we can get some feedback from current members who has installed the HyperPro option, against a Linear or any other non stock option. With the right sag setup included for the test. After all, even though the info received from the manufacturer might not be 100% complete, we still now know that you need to check and adjust the sag. Thanks for all the info.

We can supply the Stealth sprocket here from South Africa, pricing isn't that bad. Will have to find out about postage. 45 rear Stealth is approx USD 80.00 These are the alloy with titanium teeth. Various sizes available. Gun Metal Grey / Charcoal Black Blue Maroon or Wine Red Silver These are the ones we can get here.

Thanks guys, Tim sorry I did see the link on a previous page, just didn't register... Me bad there.

Suspension sag?? Rates?? etc??? Slow down, I'm new to this stuff, trying really hard to follow but seems to be a little lost here.. 1. I need to upgrade the fork Springs, 2. then I need to drop the front +- 1 inch 3. Then I need to look at a 6mm shimm on the rear shock - this would be to lift the rear +- 18mm 4. Need to set the rider sag..... How do I do this? (Front) Please keep in mind I'm a MIDGET - 5.11 and only +- 70 KG's (154 pounds) If you drop the front, do you not change the ride position, leaning more forward and placing more weight onto your hands? I do understand that this will help with the cornereing speed and response of the bike, but keeping in mind my weight and newness to this class bike, will I need to drop the front that much? I've, with the stock springs, dropped the front +- 4mm so far, and can say that the bike is feeling a lot more stable in corners, and during the corner. I do however still need to upgrade the rear to keep the stability out of the corner.

+1 for a man that can look after himself

Stock part code from Honda is 61100-MAT-0102P H/C is 6840193 - Front Fender Rear Fender stock Honda part no: 80100-MAT-A20 H/C 6697535

OK so this is now the reply that I've received after a couple of days, and also a bit of research on my side. I have to say that I weren't in the least bit impressed when i received the previous posted info from them. The whole story began with a post regarding suspension upgrades. The first thing every one on this site said was to upgrade the fork springs, and then also to lower the front with 1" Great! was my first impression, until I started looking into what is available on the market, and shaaaaiiiiiiitttt there is just too damn many manufacturers. Great for lowering prices, shit for making a informed decision. So I looked back on the forum and found that there was a group buy on Wilbers a while ago. Contacted them, after getting the right measuremnet off another site, that was also posted on one of the many suspension threads. Now Helvet has convinced me kinda that the progressive spring is the best thing since sliced cheese, or bread or both.... And yes Wilbers did have a progressive spring - the Hyper Pro spring that they resold for less than what I could get it from HyperPro USA, or Helvet Asked them for a flowchart, and compared it to the flowchart on the HyperPro site, and presto - it matched - same spring! Now I'm really happy, but still not too sure so I start asking the local guys here in South Africa, England, Germany, Australia ..... etc. And I have to say that the majority of all manufaturers and riders and specialists came back with a reply that the progressive springs is not to be used in the XX. Even blackbirdspares.co.uk gave me this advice. Then I get feedback that Wilbers do not, or is not prepared to supply me with the progressive spring due to the reasons mentioned above, and now I'm really confused. So I read that someone is installing the Hyper Pro Springs, and I know that Helvet and the guys in the Netherlands are using these, but the question will now be to all... Please keep us up to date with the performance of these springs, and also how these stand up after a couple of months and also a year or two... This is the reply that I now have received directly from Wilbers. "I was assured by the technicians that the straight rate spring is the only correct change for this bike model, a progressive version is not satisfactory. Wilbers is selling also Hyperpro springs and we know about the complains from the customers about Hyperpro products. Their steering dampers are excellent, but the spring policy is open for improvements." I know that Helvet has mentioned that Wilbers and HyperPro has had a tiff of some sorts, but it seems like they are still selling the Hyper Pro stock. I am aware that there will always be competition amongst companies, but the fact that after I spoke to and got emails back from over 300 people, and the majority did not like the Progressive spring setup surely does mean something. I still aggree completely with the HyperPro explanation on the website, but would like to get some more actually tested feedback over a prolonged time period. Unfortunately our ZAR Currency is very weak, and therfor I can't import both the linear and the progressive springs to test, so I will have to ask for help from people who allready have it installed, or is installing them soon. - Progressive springs.

Was there a noticable handeling improvement, in other words is it still worth my while to then upgrade to these springs. I have allready dropped the front by 1", but have not yet shimmed the rear. I have 56 000 km on the clock, and have never touched the suspension - replacing oils, springs or anything. I am able to drag a knee in corners currently, but would like to get a bit more stability when you pick the bike up out of a corner. It sometimes waddles a bit out of the corner, and there is a bit of oversteering from the back, This might be due to the power being delivered so quickly to the rear, and the weight of the bike.

Shaaait I'm much lighter than that.... 65 KG's donno the pounds there... So the reply I got back from them is that then the same thing you guys bought, and is it still worth my while or should I rather go elswhere for the full progressive spring? The guys were talking about the spring increasing the ride height? Have you guys had anything like this?

Speaking from experience there?? Good to see you online again..

I've been looking into fork spring upgrades, and now after placing the order, and waiting for the last 2 weeks allready, now this comes back to me.... I was just been informed by the factory that they do not recommend the progressive springs any more for the CBR 1100 XX. The reason is that the bike is "riding very low" from the factory with the progressive springs. The springs they are offering now are straight rate springs with either 9.0 Nmm or 9.5 Nmm rate. The price is the same. I did talk to some people who have the new springs and they are happy with it. The bike is riding higher up and does not dive significantly when braking Ok the order was for a progressive fork spring. I don't have a clue as to what I'm reading here, so what I'm understanding now is that I will have the same type of spring as what I currently have in the XX, just with another name on it? Is this correct? Then WTF is the point of spending the USD ??? Bastards.....

We've taken it off the track, and made it road legal again. Now it's time to get the suspension setup for road conditions, but my very limited kowledge with regards to suspension is seriously letting me down now. The guys here are mad with pricing to do this setup. No springs or shocks are required, only setup.

SPEEDOHEALER - There is a writup where someone did a test during a installation, and found that you can run the miles up through the use of a speedohealer. it's on their website i think, will look for the page I downloaded on how to install the speedohealer.....

A ot of guys in South Africa also does this, might be a liitle cheaper than sending the shock off to the States to get this done??

:?: Have allready supplied a place for this... ftp site. Check the forum. BWahahahahahahahaha How many of these links were tried and tested before they were posted here??? Quite a lot of dead links....... diff.ru does not have those files anymore.... FWIW You need to know the port number to get in there now......

The 600 has a full race suspension, and I really don't have a clue what to turn and where to set this. The problem is the suspension bottoms out under high load, and also compression isn't right. Well I think it is the compression. When I go over a speed bump, the front looses grip with the tar, and falls straight to the ground. Like no suspension working there now. The 600 has knobs and thingies you can turn at the bottom of the forks, and also on the top. I am just not sure what to turn to get what result. I think I will need to make the story stiffer? Help?