arcticflipper

Will this then when lets say OEM springs with 150mm air gap then be more spongy against a more stiffer ride @ 142mm air gap?

Thanks, I used 5W oil, did the bleeding etc, now just wondering what the 150mm airgap does. Why Wilbers were so specific on it must be 150mm airgap...

Can anyone please tell me what the result will be if you change the airgap from 142mm to 150mm The Wilbers setup requires a 150mm air gap, which I did. Now if I were to make the airgap 142mm what would the result be? The reason for asking is that I've noticed that the front wheel now starts loosing grip quicker in corners than when I still had the OEM springs and setup. Not too sure but it might have something to do with the fact that we've had rain for the last week, and today was the first dry day. There might still be a lot of shit on the road i.e sand, oil etc. Thanks

Is the group buy only for XX levers or can we get other models too?

Update: Set the front forks to the OEM specs = 39mm and rechecked and set the static and loaded sag. The bike now feels a lot better, still do every now and then get a bit of a rear wheel spin in the rain, but mainly due to a heavy throttle hand. Plus point - I'm not getting water sprayed onto my nek from the rear wheel anymore, and it does feel so much more controlled with the Wilbers springs in. I will ride the bike as is for the next week and then send the forks in for the K-Teck setup + re-valving. Will keep you posted.

http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...pic.php?t=28355 hmmmm.... edit: Is this still the same problem as in the previous post?

OK I've now done +- 100 km on the XX in the rain - with the Wilbers springs and setup according to their specs. The only thing i did was use 5W fork oil instead of the suggested 2.5W, Oh and the drop on the front. On the plus side: 1. Bike does not dive as much during hard braking 2. Much smoother over bumps and rough roads. 3. Better feedback from the road surface Negative side: 1. The tail feels way too light 2. Front feels heavier than before - after the 8.5mm drop 3. Is a real bitch to handle in the wet now - slides front and rear very quickly. Very negative :shock: Lost the stability in wet weather. The rear looses tracktion very easily. I wonder if I did not drop the front too much? Maybe I read the marks on the measuring tool wrong! :shock: The spongyness has gone at least. I think the oil just had to settle? I will take the 8.5mm drop out, and set it back to OEM specs and ride it again. I think the OEM from the yolk to the top of the fork was 39mm I will recheck the sag etc, just to make sure that it is set correctly.

I did make sure to do the 20 strokes on both inner and outer parts, think I might have done more than 20 to make sure that all the air was out. The 150mm is according to Wilbers, they did suggest a 2.5W oil, but I thought this might be a little too thin. I will set the sag, as soon as possible, and also take it for a nice long ride to check if I can pick up any improvements in handeling etc. I have noticed that it is much smoother over bumps and niks with the new Wilbers springs and current setup - besides the spongy feeling during acceleration. Will post my findings. Oh it's a 2002 model. If I remember correctly, I think the standard air gap for the 02 was also 143mm or 142mm, but the oil weight was 10W and the steering from the yolk to the to was something like 39mm, I've added 8.5mm which isn't really noticable yet - have not spent enough time in the saddle since the changes yet. Oh and my weight is +- 150 pounds - I know , midget and a lightweight too

Update: Changed to the Wilbers fork springs today, not a big job but just very time consuming. Used Putoline 5W Fork oil, wiht a 150mm air gap. The Wilbers springs are a little bit longer than the OEM springs. Dropped the front down by 8.5 mm, and left the rear standard. I've not yet set the static sage etc, will do this tomorrow. One question though. The front feels a bit spongy, especially when I accelerate. It feels a lot better over bumps and dips. Does the oil and springs still have to settle properly? will the spongy feeling go away, or did I do something wrong? Could this also be becaus I have not yet set the sag etc on the bike or due to the fact that I have not yet used a 6mm shim on the rear shock?

Where do you get these? My Honda Stealer does not have this part number, -315 and I am not willing to take a chance on paying USD 114.00 for something that might not be correct. Fuck we are getting ripped of here!

part number? Found this 06140-MAT-0315 is this correct? My local Honda stealer referred to part number 14510-MAT-000 I can't find a part number like this.....

+1 Great info on how to test the FI light for faults. The dealership will do the same as what you can do with regards to testing for the fault with regards to the FI light shining.

Besides the price diff, what is the general feelings towards these? Is a throttle lock not more of a hazard than a gain? Can you still close the throttle, or do you have to unlock the throttle lock?

how many miles on the bike?

It's about 22 GB of data, where can I send the DVD's to? Still downloading a couple of manuals, think in total will be looking at +- 30 GB of data.

the Ilburs is 245mm in length. What is the usual weight fork oil that you guys use here? 5, 7.5? The original OEM springs require a Honda SS-8 fork fluid, not too sure what the weight was on those. Will check the bottle to see. Might have to replace the oil again with the Wilburs springs. Redbird, I've seen under how much pressure those springs are in there, even the OEM's. I aggree, don't really want to replace the roof if one of them gets away from me... lol Will try the fitment on the bike if the oil weight (SS-8) is correct, else will have to remove them again. Oh I got the Wilburs directly from the factory, but you can also get them in the States from www.wilbursusa.com. They also ship directly from the factory. They don't really keep stock as far as I understood from them. The K-Tech's I found in South Africa from WMP Suspensions - Capetown based company.

Update: Managed to get hold of K-tech springs, Wilburs and a good----ish machanic. We've now changed the fork oil and still used the OEM Springs, and handeling was much better. Followed the manual, and did as was told in there. Also set the sag etc according to the document from an earlier post by Redbird. This did help a lot. It was not that far out, but out is out. Rode the bike for 1 week to get a feel and a decent comparison to the next upgrades. Must say this, the bike does dive under hard braking, and is a bit slow in handeling on twisties. I will now move over to the Wilburs setup, 150mm Air Gap with linear 0.90 Nmm springs - no valving is to be done yet. Recommended weigth on oil is 2.5 as per the factory in Germany. Oh I did pickup these when I was over there, only 99 Euros, not too bad.... I think. The K-teck springs is also Linear, with the same 150mm Air gap and 0.90 Nmm. I need to do the valves with them though, as per the factory advice. This is the reason why I'm doing them last. Now is there any quicker or easier way to change the springs etc, without having to drop the forks out completely? Well i suppose after this I'll know how to do this quickly... lol

I'm using a DNA filter, cheaper than K&N, but 2x the price of 1x OEM Filter. Got this for cost saving during services, and not so much for any potential power gains. Cost on a OEM filter = +- USD 71.00 Cost on DNA filter = +- USD 118.00 - 100 000 km lifespan +-62 000 miles Cost on K&N Filter = +- USD 206.00 - 100 000 km lifespan Pricing is only applicable in South Africa. We get ripped way too much on bikes, accessories and parts.

Would like to apologize to everyone esp. bwflorence if anything I said on here created the wrong impression or disgraced the forum in any way.

I understand. Thanks for the advise.

OK if you say so, you are entitled to your opinion. That's fair.

:shock:

and here I thought you were a swallower... :cry:

and you can suck my dick too....

we normaly flush the motor with engin flush - diesel - or similar product. We also check the plugs and replace if need be. Check the gaps on the plugs. Then we'll look at the Camchain - or listen for any noises. Check the brakes and brake disc's for wear and any abnormalities, also check the steering torque, and all wheel nuts and caliper nuts. For good measure, replace the stock airfilter with a aftermarket, or clean the after market filter + clean the FI injectors. With this we'll check a couple of bolts here and there for torque, and if any is incorrect we'll check all in the same area. Also check the throttle freeplay and the water levels. I know that the carbed bikes has a couple more things, like jets needs to be replaced at the first service and syncro of carbs etc. Also check the chain and sprocket wear. I'm sure the might be other things that was not mentioned. Or just do the normal service like you would any other service?