arcticflipper

I have been trying to move the rear pegs about 50mm forward, by making extensions etc. I just can't seem to get the correct placement for the pegs. Has anyone tried moving the passenger pegs forward before? Any ideas? Is there not maybe any aftermarket goose neck extensions that I can use? A goose nek looks something like a Z that allows you to move the peg. I've been searching various Honda sites but can't seem to come up with the right thing. The goose neck extensions are mainly used by Cruisers. But the problem is that it needs to have a specific mounting angle, else the peg will be all wrong. I need to move the rear peg about 10cm forward and outward so as to not get the drivers feet hung up on it. Else is there maybe larger pegs, thicker pegs that I can use? I have managed to get a fairly OK extension made from alloy, and polished up nicely. This gave me +- 5cm forward movement, but it is still not enough. On longer trips y On lon

Do a search for Stealth sprockets. They've got a complete kit - with gold sprockets - tri-metal sprockets for the bird, well here in South Africa. Cost is +- USD 252.00 But keep in mind we get fucked with pricing here in the South of the world. There was a couple of posts about what to watch out when replacing the front sprocket. If I remember correctly the OEM sprocket was slightly thicker with a dampning O-ring or something. A couple of guys mentioned that they picked up vibrations and more noise with some aftermarket front sprockets.

When I got the Wilbers springs from Germany they told me that they did not supply the progressive springs anymore. I got the normal spring, with no tapering. I did find that the instructions where a bit strange. I do however understand German and can read it. It said that I should use a 150mm air gap with 2.5 fork oil. I Went for the 5W oil, and ended up bitchin and complaining about a couple of things. Got my ass whipped a couple of times too.... Thanks guys I'll remember to bring some KY next time.... Before I went over to the K-Tech solution I did manage to get the setup pretty right for my specifications and weight. I ended up getting a second pair of spacers that fits on top of the springs, and cut them slightly smaller to compensate for the longer Wilbers Spring. If I remember correctly the Wilbers was 20mm longer than OEM springs. This gave too much preload for me. I also stuck to the 7.5W oil. The 5W oil was just a bit too bouncy, fast for my liking. I did try it on the OEM air gap, and also the 150mm. The 150mm with 7.5W oil and the slightly shortened spacer worked the best for me in the end. I know a lot of peeps on here like an even lighter oil!!

I've got a euro 2002 model, wording is all in one sticker, top and bottom half around the ignition. The bottom is starting to peel, but no letters popping off!

Had a similar problem, left system was loose, could move it back and forth, side to side. Took it in to a workshop and they re-krimped the disc etc. This happened about a year ago, no problems yet. Changed 2 sets of front brakes since then, no uneven wear or after problems from doing this repair. The pins were pressure pressed against the disc to get the disc stable again. - no movement now.

Were looking into this for a while now, and decided that I'll rather use the OEM VFR 800 panniers. These are very similar to the XX OEM Panniers. they are slightly bigger. Busy with making a mounting bracket based on the OEM mounting system from Honda, with a top rack for an optional top box if you would ever want to mount one. So far the VFR panniers cost me +- USD 317.00 Mounting Brakets in Black Chroming made from alloy - USD 476.00 The grab rail gets replaced with the top mounting bracket, it runs from the first metal bobin on the tailpiece all allong to the other side. The bottom stabilizer bar bolts onto the rear foot peg / exhaust nut and joins onto the grab rail. 2 bolts and it 's off, no real visible fuggly mounting brackets. Just waiting for the black chroming to get done then I can past some pics. I'm in South Africa, and these prices were very cheap compared to any other option. Givi setup cost +- USD 3170.00 OEM XX Panniers from honda USD 1500.00

Who uses these? Any good or not really. This looks like a nice touring related option.

Brian sounds to me like me and you are due for that 6mm Shimm on the rear shock..

I did, thanks the 15 minutes are correct. It's just the inner part that is worrying me a bit, The stealer is selling an inner and outer CCT unit. I've got no idea as to what the inner part is. The parts I got from you worked great, no more noise.

Has anyone ever replacecd the tensioner, and how would I know that this part needs to be replaced?

Thanks again! I'm going to have a look at them this evening, and will give some feedback about this.

The South African market also didn't have the numbers mentioned here. I got mine directly from JohnXX The updated unit has 2 green dots on it, while the older one has only one. Got a very interresting quote from my local stealer here. They quoted on a Inner CCT and an Outer CCT. Has anyone got any info with regards to this. What the heck is a inner and outer CCT?

Thanx, will get him to look into this.

Shit I always thought that the XX OEM panniers were a bit different from the VFR's. I've yet to see the XX Panniers here. Hell thanks for the info, This is great news!!!! :icon_clap:

Thanks for the response, I will ask him. Is this normal on the 98 models? That's something new to me... Edit: He's never had the carbs checked or synced since he's had the bike, and the noise doesn't go away when he pulls the clutch. It does go away when he revs over 1200 rpm. He also now mentioned that after a high speed run the bike sputters a bit when he decelerates. It does sound like carbs might need some TLC?

Friend of mine in South Africa has a 98 carbed XX, and is complaining about a ratteling noise below 1200 rpm. This normally appears when the bike is hot or at riding temp. He's taken it in, and some or the other modification was done, now this is where I'm not sure what was done, but I think it might have been to the CCT? After the mod was done, the noise was gone for 1000km, but then came back, he had the mod done again, same result after 1000km. I've never seen or heard about CC noise below 3000rpm, could it possibly need a replacement on the CCT unit? He did say it is on the right hand side when you sit on the bike, and as soon as you get past 1200 rpm, the noise goes away. The bike only has +-16 000 km that would be 9944 US miles.

Has anyone ever tried the VFR or Interceptor 800's panniers on a XX? Do they fit, Does it require a lot of modification to get them to fit? I can pick up a set for only ZAR2000.00 That's about USD322.00 Way cheaper than anything else out here. The VFR got stolen, and now the guy just wants to get rid of the panniers.

Yeah I did, I'll get the specs for you and post it later.

Have you done valving or is it still OEM on the forks?

Not that I know much, but from what I'm reading it sounds like you have shorted out the ecu. Can you short the ECU on that year? I ride a 2002 model FI XX, so I might be writing the biggest load of BS I don't know. Edit: Sorry guys, let me rephrase this. When the bike is off, have you used the ECU testing method - which includes shorting out the ECU - to retrieve the error detail that is stored in the ECU? The FI light will flash a certain amount of times, which when referenced to the Workshop Manual will provide some starting point for the possible solution.

Hell thanks guys, RedBird - that's some really nice info, never even thought of doing that.

Hell I'm batteling to get the top nut on the yolk off..... Is there any special tool for this or do I just use a allenkey socket which fits into the hole covered by the rubber plug? I do need to take the yolk off to get the the locknuts? To use the hammer and chisel effect....

We've got a local company in South Africa that sells these, and they seem to be just as good, or slightly weaker than the PC units. I don't think there is much of a price diff between a new TFI unit and a PC unit. I don't personally have either, so I con't give too much info, only hearsay. A couple of SP1's run on these units, and they seem to be pushing the same HP and track times as the ones running the PC units. Haven't heard anyone complaining about either of them. (PC or TFI)

Is there any easy way of doing this, and what tools will be required? I just want to check the torque on these, I don't think I need to replace them yet. I can't feel any uneven or hard turning when I turn the steering. Glides smoothly from side to side like when you use some lubrication during playtime...

I tend to aggree here, time to back it off a bit. Took the XX out on the track last Sunday and pushed it as far as I could. It's a very tight and short track, and not really suited for bigger bikes at all. I managed to get the pillions knee down on the tar, as well as the peg feelers. The total lenght of the feelers are +-41mm. Well they use to be... Due to riding with a pillion I found it very difficult to lean off the bike, Pillion's knees and arms are in the way. She loved it, I think she might have left a mark or 2 on the seat. Thank God she was wearing a full race leather setup. It was very unexpected to say the least. I think the thing that amazed me the most is how well the bike handeled under these conditions. Two up the bike felt so stable. I think it might be time for me to check the steering bearing torque figures. 1 up it feels a little loose.