xrated

LOL..... Even a blind hog finds an acorn once in a while! No problem John. I don't know that it would have worked for you as it would have been a lot of effort to put it back to street legal.

Yea, I guess I should have said that I was going to post it shortly...... Had no clue it would sell that quickly.

Sorry John, I put it up on like 5 different forums on Sunday, around 3PM........by 9PM, I had a deposit and it's going to a new home on Saturday.

John, my '07 600RR is going to be sold shortly. It does have a clear title ( I got it from the guy I purchased the bike from, but never titled it in TN), but it is definitely not street legal at this point.......and I don't have any of the items to make it street legal.....lights, horn, stoplight, etc. For me, it was/is a dedicated track bike. Ohlins stuff up front, Ohlins rear shock (TTX-36), Power Commander, Leo Vince full exhaust, Vortex rearsets (set up GP shift), OES frame sliders, Armour Bodies track bodywork (some damage but fully functional), Engine Ice, safety wired, Vesrah RJL brake pads, Stainless braided brake lines, JPR shorty levers (clutch and brake), Motul RBF 600 brake fluid, and probably a few more items that I'm not remembering right now. I'm going to be asking $3500 for it, and it has approx. 16K miles on it, so it's probably time to have the valves checked. Let me know if you are interested.......or if you know of someone that might be. Oh, and the reason that I'm selling it is because I bought a '08 GSX-R 750 dedicated track bike last October and I simply don't need two dedicated track bikes...............well, actually I would like to have two, but Peg says no!

Philip, the starting capacitor is the most likely culprit here........and they are fairly cheap to replace. That is where I would start.

I've had my NoMar Jr. Pro since 2007 and I've mounted well over a hundred tires on it, not to mention flipping rears for track day use.

iFanboi wrote: Mike, once you get the NoMar set up and get comfortable knowing how to use it, you will never, never, ever want to use any other method for mounting tires.......unless you get a electric/pneumatic one.

Practically every WERA racer that needs wheels, brake rotors, ect straightened, uses Wills service. That should speak volumes for his craftsmanship.

http://willsrimrepair.com/ Excellent workmanship, but beware.....phone calls and emails sometimes do not get answered in a timely fashion. If I'm not mistaken, he's kind of a one man show and is busier than a one legged man at an ass kickin' contest.

I would think that it would. The clamp goes on the side of the helmet behind the point where the front of the helmet raises up. I'm sure every helmet is slightly different, but at the present time, Peggy has a modular for riding the ST1300 (Nolan N104) and the clamp is probably close to 5" behind the part of the helmet that lifts up.

There is a clamp that goes on the helmet and holds the microphone bloom in place, then the speakers are fitted in the "ear pocket" inside your helmets.

BTT......$100

Bump to the top for the Autocom system............how about $115?

There is a huge difference though between LiPo and LiFEPo4 batteries.

You also DO NOT want to charge them over 14.4Volts.

Personally, I would NEVER disable the E-kill switch on any motorcycle that I own. YMMV!

Really, I'll check it out......sorry! Update......I deleted a bunch out of the inbox thingy.......try it again.

Some of the Honda ST1300's (which have linked brakes also) had a recall on the secondary master cylinder because it wouldn't release, thus causing a fluid/pressure on one of the pots of the rear brake. Mine locked up in Tellico Plains, which is approx. 30 miles from my house. I used a wrench to loosen the bleeder fitting for that pot, which relieved the rear brake pressure and then had to ride home very carefully....not using the front brake again. Mine got so hot that it actually melted the bottom of the Honda saddlebag. Honda replaced the secondary master, the rear brake disc, rear pads, and the bottom of the saddlebag, in addition to a complete brake service for the entire bike's braking system........all under warranty.

John, if you've got a volt meter, it's very easy to figure out. Put the meter on DC Volts and touch one lead to the frame (ground), with the headlight on and the dimmer switch set to low beam, one of the wires will have voltage and the other one no voltage. Check both wires to make sure of that. Then, keeping one of the meter leads on the ground, touch the other meter lead to the second wire and turn on the high beam switch.......should be voltage at the one that didn't have voltage on the first test. Turn it off and on a couple of times to make sure that everything is functioning as it should.

John, for what it's worth, I'm running 55W digital brand H3's in a set of projectors in my Civic....5000K and I love the light output. I'm not a fan of the really blue looking stuff.......just lots and lots of light output. My 55W/5000K lights produce a lot of usable light and hardly any bluish tint.

How about a bump to the top and I'll include shipping for the $125.......in the lower 48.

Check these out.... I've used them in a couple different bikes over the years. The last one was for my FZ09. Install took about 2 minutes. http://www.customled.com/collections/electronic-led-flasher-relays#elfr1

I have upgraded to the Sena 20S intercom system for my bikes and I am selling my Autocom Active Rider system and a Kenwood UBZ LH14 FRS radio with the Autocom cord. Everything is in good condition and everything works. The system includes the following: * Active Rider Intercom system (12VDC needed for operation) * 2 Headset/Microphone units * 1 Extension cord for extra length for passenger headset * 2 Mounting clamps for putting the headset/mike onto your helmets * 1 2.5mm to 3.5mm cord approx. 6' long....never used * Original owner/instruction manual that came with the set * Kenwood UBZ LH14 FRS radio with the cord to hook up to the Autocom for FRS bike to bike comm. * Original owners manual for the Kenwood radio The radio needs to be sold with the Autocom system and I'm asking $125 for EVERYTHING. PM me here if interested Pictured is everything that comes with the system......I did find the Kenwood manual after I took the picture, so it's included too.

Because the is the .ORG, MOTHERFUCKER!!! For Sale section MOTHERFUCKER................Do...You.....Speak It?

So, why would you put it in the pub instead of the For Sale section?