xrated

Nik, Technically speaking, it won't slow your bike down per se. The problem will be in the fact that with a black CCT residing on a silver bike, the cam chain will be running "faster" than when it had the silver one. This will cause the "kanutin" valve to be slightly out of adjustment and possibly reek havoc with your internal combustion sequence that is required for proper operation. Thus, the silver bike will now be slower still, than it originally was. Don't worry though, a can of silver Krylon from Walmart and a few shots on the CCT and it will be back to normal. :shock:

I've got a little over 5K on my Avon AV45 and absolutely NO cupping. I run approx. 39 - 40 PSI in the front, under the day to day riding scenarios. 36 - 37 PSI when I'm going to push it a bit, (seXXt, Hoot, ect.)

Joe, If I am thinking about the sames ones that you are, they sell them at Auto Zone for like $2.99. Do you guys have Auto Zone out in PA? Post a pic of the plugs and if it is what they have here, I could bring you some when we meet up next weekend.

Musta been temporary dislexia, huh Joe! Reminds me of an old joke about the mother's organization (kind of like MADD) only it is called "DAM".......... Mother's Against Dislexia

I know this may seem like a stupid suggestion on my part, but if the vibes started kind of suddenly, could the balance weight have come off during your ride? Just seems like the first thing to check.

I just changed mine about 15 minutes ago......no slippage so far! :grin:

I'm getting ready to put in the Mobil 1 15w-50 again, this time I'm at the 20,000 mile mark. Never a hint of clutch slippage, although the rear tire slips occasionally.....oh well, probably not oil related. :shock:

Don't confuse LBS with ABS. The two are different animals and the blackbird is not available with ABS

This may be a silly suggestion, but it is the only thing that comes to mind. Have you looked at the front side of the radiator. Are all of the fins nice and straight (not bent over)? Barring that, I would start checking the electrical circuit, as far as the sending unit putting out the proper voltage at the correct temp. , as well as the gauge.

Chris, That really surprises me. I am of the opinion that the 46 sticks better than the 36 did. I never once ran out of grip last summer down in Tennessee while riding the twisty stuff. Maybe I'm not powering out of the corners as hard as you are, but the 45/46 combo went all the way to the edge countless times and the bottom of my fairing is scratched on both sides.

Porterb........I'm not trying to be a smartass, but its a $35 part that takes about 15 minutes to change (including the right side fairing removal). Why would you want to do all of that testing, measuring, etc? Go riding and have some fun.

I've never touched the center stand down, but the bottom of my fairing on both sides have touched down, and the weld joint between the header pipe and the mid-pipe, has some of the weld ground off. If you are getting to the center stand, I would say that you might want to consider that your limit, as far as lean angle.

A good ole fashion hacksaw with a 32 tooth blade makes for pretty quick chain removal too. The only problem with that method though is that you don't have an end to hook the new chain onto, to thread it through and over the countershaft sprocket. Now if you are a changin the CS sprocket too.......

I can't speak for other dealers, but when we get our bikes in and uncrated, they go on the showroom floor without a battery, oil, gas, etc. When the bike is purchased, the battery is filled with acid (unless it is a sealed battery of course) and it is put on a charger while the bike is being prepped. I can't imagine why a new battery would be dying, unless it is defective (shorted plates internally, manufact. defect, ect.) from day one. I go back to the dealer and have it replaced under warranty.

I've used the Avon Azaro 35/36 combo and then (now) the 45/46 combo. I had them in place last year while doing the seXXt and riding the Dragon and Cherohala. Granted, those places are NOT racetracks, but I did get the tire ALL the way to the edge (no chicken strips) and started grinding down the lower fairing on both sides of the bike. The right side so much, that it was starting to grind off the weld joint between the header and the mid-pipe. The 45/46 combo offers eXXceptional traction, just not 100% sure how it would hold up (longevity) on a track day. I had the edges of the tires so hot that they were shredding little balls of rubber off. I was running approx 36psi at the time and never once felt like the bike was wiggly or going to come out from under me. Hope this helps.

Wow, this guy really has some exceptional people skills! I rezembull that rimarke bowt being stuuupid. I'll hav u no that i graditated from 8th grayde with honors. iT was a strugel, but after 22 years i made it. Damn, I didn't realize that I was stupid, thanks for the input ralfybebeafdj;kjadj;ashjgag;jhasgjhasawio;ruaw

I built an 18' x 30' x 10' garage in the spring/summer of 2000. I had never built a thing before in my life. I went to Lowes and bought a book on house framing and read all of the chapters that I needed to read, that pertained to what I was going to do. I contracted out the concrete work and I took over from there. I was very careful to pick shingles, siding, OH garage door, entry door, and gable end vents that completely matched my house. When it was done, it looked like that it had been constructed at the same time the house was built. I've had many comments on the quality of the construction, and feel very proud of what I accomplished mostly by myself. Pics to follow later.

Hey Professor, Put some "tobacci" in your pipe, lite 'er up, take a few puffs and chill out. If you are looking for a forum that proves or disproves scientific theory/fact, try the BMW guys, they are mostly know-it-alls. :evil:

I polished my wheels a couple of summers ago. Go to Autozone or ??? and buy a paint stipper called "Aircraft Stripper". Tape off the area that you don't want to remove paint with an aluminized tape (auto parts store too). I also taped off the tire so that the stripper didn't get on the tire. Once the paint is removed, follow the instructions on the stripper can and wash off the stripper and paint residue. Then the fun begins. I started out with 400 grit wet n dry emery cloth, then 600 grit, then 1000 grit, then 1200 grit, then 1500 grit. You can even go to a 2000 grit wet and dry, it just depends on how shiny you want to end up with. After all of that, it's time for a good aluminum polish. After I discovered "Boms Away", I threw out my jar of Mother's brand aluminum polish. I'm not sure where you can get Boms Away because I bought mine at the vendor expo at the Honda Hoot this past summer. Hope this helps.

Just for future reference. Jump starting a bike from a car battery is perfectly acceptable. Both vehicles are 12 Volt DC. A car battery is capable of suppling many more amps or current than a MC battery, but the bottom line is that both systems are 12 Volt DC. The motorcycle will only pull as much current as it needs to try and do what you are doing. In other words, if the bike pulls, say 30 amps to run the starter, the car battery will supply 30 amps. Don't ever try the reverse though, jumping a car with a MC battery. This will definitely overload the motorcycle battery and charging circuit. Hope this helps.

I've got a set of MIG high mounts and a Power Commander with a custom map for the MIGS. The guy that I bought the MIG map from had the same setup (MIG high mounts) and dyno chart the he sent me with the map shows 148.2 HP. I would assume that at speed, with the Ram air effect, I should be in the low 150s HP, but that is a guess on my part.

I did the clear lenses and the titanium bulbs too. Make sure that you get a 27 or 28 Watt bulb or the turn signal will be kind of dim and not too noticable. As John01XX said, a little piece of tape over the contact for the running light and you don't have to cut the wiring in the turn signal unit. Works great!

Update on front end noise. I had a chance to put the front end up on a jack and the centerstand this morning. After I got the front end up, there was absolutely NO play in the steering head bearings! I started looking for the source of the "clicking" noise and found that the piece that makes the left caliper rotate a little bit (to operate the secondary master cylinder) was the source of the click. It is a short metal rod that slips into a rubber piece. After taking the left caliper completely apart and inspecting the rubber and the metal rod, I could see nothing that looks worn or needing replacement. I put it back together and am going for a test ride this afternoon. Sheesh, maybe it was there before and I didn't notice it, but I'm kind of stumped on this one.

Hello Howard! Been eatin' any burgers on the 'Hala with you lid flipped up? I miss all of you guys. We've got to do it again.

Thanks for the info. I did have the front suspension off last winter when I put the RaceTech spring in the forks, so that should be no problem. My biggest concern was whether or not I was going to have to purchase some "specialty" tools to do the job. Apparently that is not the case if I can use a hammer and long punch to knock out the bearing races. I'm still not sure where the "knocking" sound is coming from, but as soon as I get the time to get the front end up off the ground, I should be able to isolate it....hopefully not the forks that I worked on last winter.