beondwacko

9.90's heh? I assume you are a rider who weighs less than 160 lbs ? What kind of MPH #'s are you getting?

The last one of those that I saw set up like that killed it's rider. That was this past January at a local drag strip to me.

$220.00 for a dyno run or tune ? If it's for a run , them you are looking at a bloody sore ass. For a tune , that's a bit on the cheap side. BTW,,,,,,,,,, what kind of dinosour do you have ?

Your shit's junk. Barely able to run inthe 10's. Just all farkeled out and bling. Not impressed.

It took me less than 1 hour the first time I did it. I didn't think it was too terrible. That was from the top method. Be carefull with the screws that hold the throttle body velocity stacks.

I too am watching where this thread goes. I also have the same complaint as you about the highway ride ( over expansion joints especially ) and I too will sometimes ride 2 up, once in a while ride with gear, and also once in a while ride twisties. I want the springs that John01XX got while he was over in England last year. The difference in comfort and turn in over stock are astounding to say the least. Getting back on my bike after that was a major letdown.

If you think 2hrs is a lot of work..... LOL I usually like making things myself as long as I can meet or exceed quality of items that can be purchased. If it is unique, looks stock and performs better.... even better! If that whole thing only took you 2 hrs to construct, then you my friend should be commended. Good job, and not very much time.

Nice end result. A lot of work involved though. Being unique isn't easy.

My scaled in at 530 with 1/3 of a tank of gas and stock pipes.

Everytime I go Drag racing, I tuck behind the screen from the top of second gear on. It's nice to see where your going from that viewpoint.

I hear you can find them on Ebay

I didn't like the Ziti to be honest with ya'. Just don't tell her that.

I had to pull a couple of those bolts as well when I installed the front end strap too. They were pretty tight going out as I remember. I cleaned the threads ( with a small wire brush ) and Locktite'd them back in with a moderate amout of torque. They haven't moved since. Locktite is a nice little bit of insurance unless you own a Hardley. Then it's manditory. :icon_clap:

If you can't find the peices / parts you want pre-chromed, I can probably polish those for you if you were interested in going that route. I've never done the gas cap yet , but I'm sure I could get a great finish off of it with the proper prep work. I have polished a couple of pairs of rearsets already with good success. Let me know if I can be of service. Just remember that if you for instance send the rearsets off to be chromed, they have to be well wet sanded before they go off.

Ummmm,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Me.

My OEM chain had streched quite a bit by the time I had 14K on it. The sprockets were in decent shape though. I cheated a little bit. I put on a +2 rear aluminum sprocket and got another 3K hard miles on it untill the aluminum was due for replacement. I could have just replaced the rear sprocket at that time, but I did the whole sha-bang instead ( front 16t, oem DID chain, and 45t rear ). The old chain was in good shape other than being streched.

Hello Mr. 409 & welcome to the forum. The easiest way to gain performance on the XX is with the exhaust change. The problem that you will encounter is that not many companys make a full system with the dual cans. The factory exhaust system is pretty heavy and you'll loose 20 something lbs with an aftermarket single sided system. That's a big weight loss! As for power, for instance, my 01' dyno'd 136 HP with the stock exhaust but fell off bigtime over 9K rpm. I now have a set of Two Bro's Ti slip ons and a PCIII custom mapped and I make 141 hp. but the power doesn't fall off now. Full systems seem to net around a 6-10 hp gain over slip on's when mapped correctly. Take it to the track in stock configuration and see what it'll do. My best so far was a 10.55 wit a set of D&D's and a K&N. I'm going back to the track this Wednesday night if it doesn't rain. :icon_pray:

WD-40 fixes everything !

For those who have had a PCIII for a while now, I have a quick question. The PCIII that fits the 99'-01's connects at the injectors and the TPS along with the battery. What would happen if I were to disconect it from the battery? I want to try a couple of passes down the track with it out of the loop to see the results. Mainly because I was disapointed with my times the last time I went to the track and I curious to see if it's giving me any gains. The map shouldn't be lost, and I figure the worst case scenario would be that I get an FI light on from doing this.

I'd be willing to bet that the LCD display will cost as much as a PCIII itself. I had heard that they were going to do something with map storage and a SD card , there it is.

There a model now with an LCD display on the unit itself ? What does it show?

This is an electrical problem that you are having. Not fuel related being that it's affecting the tach. You may have a defective battery that either has a plate in it that shorts out or a loose major electrical connection that reacts when the bike is in motion. Go over the electrical system with a fine tooth comb. If the battery is OEM, replace it. It's 5+ years old. Check charging voltage, check that the soleinoid is mounted and not bouncing around. Go over it and let us know what you find.

& I have one with 5K miles on it. I wish it weren't such a job to make it work.

Now why didn't I think of that?? I think I may have to call eibach though for a spring to pop my corbin like that. Neat ideal. Good thinking! :icon_thumbsup: :icon_thumbsup:

Compression ?? Or is it just bogging out ?