beondwacko

I'm suprised that the torque wasn't higher. I measured 87ft lbs and 140.9 hp with no PCII D&D's and a K&N. Hmmmmm.

That part looks like a grommet from this angle. I have no recollection where the hell it fits into though.

It never ceases to amaze me that shit that people get away with here in Florida. I hear of so many stories of idiots getting into accidents or incidents who are not insured. Up in NY, if you get caught driving with out insurance, it's a manditory $500.00 fine. No if's and's or buts. I hear of these stories down here at least once a month. Retards. You should have reamed that guy a new asshole Ed. Learn him but good.

Almost all modern engines have freeze plugs in the blocks. I assume that the XX does as well. It's gotta' be Ozark cold to freeze a 50/50 mix. How big was the puddle? Like big enough to account for a majority of the coolant? Put a heater in the Garage, pull the fairings, and take a close look. Hopefully a clamp and nothing more loostened up.

Ed, I had not heard that you got tagged. I hope you were not hurt.

Not that I'm a Pro with the XX's but , I remember hearing something about the 99's having corrosion problems in the harness. Besides that brainfart, I didn't see if you replied to whether the fuel pump remained running when the bike quit on you. I know that the kill switch on the right bar shuts it down, but I beleive it also shunts the ignigtion as well. If it just shut the fuel pump, the bike would still run for a second or so after it was shut down. Residual fuel pressure and all. I would look into that switch first. It's easy to reach, but there are a number of wires attached to it, and it's not super simple to bypass from what it looks like. Here's another general question for you. When the bike dies, and you are rolling in gear, will it roll to a complete stop dead? Or, do you have to "cycle" the key to get it to fire? I assume that when it has happed to you before, that you pulled in the clutch, rolled to a stop, put it in Neutral, and restarted it. If that were the case , I'd even look into a relay possibly going bad. Let us know what you find.

Sounds like a syncro problem. If you force things, you'll bend a shift fork and then you'll be wishing you had brought it to someone who knows better.

Typically , when you change the exhaust or modify an exhaust on a bike , it's not so much the ignigtion or spark curve you need to change , it's the fuel curve/ratio that needs to be modified. Your bikes ignigtion curve is controlled by the computer. It's equipped with a "Knock" sensor that retards the timing when ever it detects pre-detonation. I have never heard of anyone re-flashing the factory ECU to alter the curve before. Could somone with more experience with the XX shine some more light on this please?

Just a quick tid bit of information. If your buddy overreved it and floated/bent a valve or two, you would have some very odd noises eminating from the air intake and or backfiring from the exhaust. It would also be running rough. I know you don't have a lot of engine experience , and I don't want to confuse you with other possibilities. Is the knocking sound high or mid pitched? I'm very curoius to the outcome of your dilema.

That would not work in this application. The dent on this tank is on a curved peice of metal. It will never regain it's original "Memory" of shape. Those things sometimes work OK on a flat panel though. Chris, Get your present tank fixed. A PDR ( Paintless Dent Repair ) guy might be able to "spoon" out the small dents you have. Then the rest get's filled with plastic. There used to be a body filler out there that was composed of Aluminum powder in a resin. I forgot the name of it, but it's a lot stronger than a Bondo style of filler. Get some advise from a good auto body person. They will be able to advise you to the best way to fix it. When done properly, you'll never be able to tell there was a dent there. Look into it.

Looks very Nice what you have done so far. I'll keep my e-bay eyes open for ya.

I ended up changing the CCT on mine ( thanks John01XX ) and I couldn't believe how easy it way. Just as it's been said before, don't pull the "pin" out of the new unit untill it's installed and torqued down. Don't over tighten it either. As for the old one , just un-bolt it , and toss it out. Clean the gasket surfaces with a clean razor blade and pop in the new one. Peice of cake.

Exactly ! Torque = Acceleration Horsepower = Top speed

Oil ? Did we check the oil when the bike came back ?

Those 4 bolts you are speaking of just hold the front axle to the tubes. One you drop the front wheel, in the "crecent" shapped section of the fork tubes that hold the front axle is a bolt on each fork tube. That bolt goes right up the lower tube into the internals. The head of the bolt ( should be an allen bolt ) faces the floor from your perspective. When you go to remove that bolt to drain the tube, may I make a suggestion or two? 1) Once you determint the correct size hex ( allen ) key, get one from you local tool store that will fit on a ratchet. Don't use one you may have laying around that has wear on it. Those bolts are tight , and you don't want to take a chance in stripping one out. Not only that but a rachet will allow you more torque to the bolt. It's a better way of doing things than using a pipe or a standard box wrenck on the end of the allen wrench for leverage. 2) Now this tip may be argued by a few others so you need to decide what is best for you. As for draining the fork tubes, you don't have to remove that center bolt all together. You can loosen it up 3-4 turns and slighty prop up the fork tube to let the oil drain out, but there should be a copper washer ( it works like a gasket ) under the head of that bolt. Some people replace that washer whenever ( and all like it in other applications ) any time the bolt is loosened. Keep in mind that if you unscrew that bolt all the way, that the fork tube WILL drop down a couple of inches. This might make re-assembly a little bit more difficult. I have not had a problem with copper washers leaking after re-useage on a low pressure application. If it were a brake line and a banjo bolt , well then, that's another story. Never take chances on the brakes. You might want to stop by your local dealer or mail order place and replace those washers for peace of mind , but I never had one leak after I re- assembled a set.

Step One of project ( waste a lot of time ) Led Tail light. Cooked that bitch like a Lobster and split the lens from the housing. It worked ! Damm good glue too. I wonder if it's "Honda" glue? Thanks Rales !!

XXL, That site is the shit !!!!!! It will provide me with all that I will need in my formulations. Thank you very much.

Thank you XXl, We'll be in touch almost for sure.

Have you considered lighter wheels as well ?

No idea how long you can run the bike on just battery alone , but if you need to drive it to get it somewhere and your running on battery alone , I would pull the fuse for the headlight. That will add some range. Just becarefull of the local Po Po.

Same thing here. I went from the OEM BT's to the Pilot Roads and it all went away. The bars are steady now at any speed hands off.

XXL , All the diodes will draw approx the same current from the load? As if there were just one or multiple connected in Paralell? That was the big question. When you connect multiple LED is Paralell , the resistance can't be the same as if you were wiring for just one. There are more paths for the current to return to the source, so as opposed to a series curcuirt, wouldn't the required reststance decrease ?? I know that it sounds like the logic is flawed, and I also know that by that reasoning because there are more loads ( work to be done ) the resistance should increase. That's where the big question lies for me. I should be getting the LED's late this week , and start construction shortly afterwards.

I hope not. It was a very small screw no less. smaller than a 1/16'' hole. A dent on the otherhand would stress the section of the frame more for sure with deformation and flexing of the adjacent areas.

REPOST from 9/14

I also came to the conclusion that the larger ( same electrical specs ) amber LED's that are going to be used for the turn signals will be ran at 30ma ( full power ). The reason I'm doing this is because they will only be on intermitantly, and with them not staying on full time, they should be just fine.