beondwacko

Dude, You are in the same boat as I'm in for project spray. Quess what else? You're Fucked but good. Look your bike over closely from a short distance away. Now tell me where your going to mount the bottle? That's the problem that I have dug into. You're still running dual exhaust ( slip on's ? ) and there's the biggest problem. In the area where the left side can is happens to be the only viable place to mount a bottle at the correct angle. There is one other option that I have been eyeballing though and that it to mount a pair of 9oz bottles under the seat. One will fit in place with no modification on the left side if the tool kit hump, but 9 oz is litterly 15 seconds of spray time with a 30 HP dry shot. What I was going to do was a little bit of rear fender modification and fabrification to fit another 9 oz bottle or possibly a single 1 lb bottle. The bottles will have to be mounted with the valve facing backwards and no internal siphon tubes. Then you'll need a nitrous soleinoid, a dry nitrous nozzle and jet, a good 20A relay, and way to trigger the system. A nitrous filter inline from the bottle to the soleinoid is also suggested . If you go with a dual bottle set up, you'll have to tee them together with a manifold of some sort too. Welcome to my headache. If I were running a single sided exhaust, it would all be easy and I could mount a 1.5 lb bottle off the swingarm but nothing is easy in my garage.

Hey Ron, I just got my PCIII last week. I have both a baseline dyno run with out it and and one with it installed and mapped. I didn't get a major boost in low end but I did add about 3-5 ft/lbs from 2K rpm to 5K rpm. I was also able to finally get rid of that power falloff above 9Krpm. I'll post next wednesday what I was able to gain in performance at the drag strip. I never had a PCII so there's nothing I can say about that part of your question. Sorry.

That is one NICE system. I'm jealous. I hope you win it. Good luck !

Why does you wife have to touch the ground if she is a passenger? That's what the pegs are for, not only resting your feet but mounting and dismounting.

:icon_shhh:

I have heard of the lower ends safely holding 260hp via turbo's. Northman would have a more accurate answear for sure.

Just as an FYI for you guys out there running an satellite set up. I used a "silicone" tape on the tail of my bike. It's a non adhesive / strechy tape that just clings to any smooth surface. This stuff is great. I have had my antenea on the back of my bike for a couple thousand miles and not one mark on the paint. I also used a peice of double stick foam tape on the magent side of the antenea as "cushion".

I thought the fronts were 1157's ?

Fixed. They were not Jeremy's plates ( short notice issue ) and I didn't notice that the reed valves are supposed to be removed , not just covered. So in my semi exhausted state last night while working on the bike after a long hard day in the heat, I put the new plates on and there was an interference issue with the screws on thereed valves that I SHOULD have removed and didn't. So when I got home today, I cheated a little. When I wasn't able to pull the #1 phillips screws out of the reed valves ( See Cursing loudly at this point ) I just ended up putting back on the orig' vented covers and used the old hoseing from the soleinoid to connect the two together. Fixed. PAIR defeated with out using block off plates. I finaly took the bike out for a short ride tonight after hanging the new exhaust, it it felt nice. The TBR slip on's have a great rumble but they don't scream, and no more backfires on decel either. PCIII instlled and mapped tommorow night. Yeah !

SHit, I thought that there might have been 2 hoses and not one. Like I said before, the left side one just slipped off without me havingto work at it or to release a clamp. That's why I forgot it. I figure it shouldn't take me more than about 15 min' to fix it , but wow do I hate having to prop the tank up. PITA.

As i was reflecting the job a little while ago, I think I remember what I did or didn't do. There are supposed to be 2 breather hoses that attach to the air box aren't there? I remeber that there was one on the right side for sure, and I think as I was lifing the base of the airbox off that there might have been one on the left side as well. THe one that might have been on the left side slipped off on it's own and if that's true, I think I forgot to put it back on. I remeber that the right side one was clamped, but I can't remember if there was one on the left side. I'll have to take it apart tommorow after work and double check things.

I just did the block off deal with the pair valves as I was changing the plugs. I got the bike back together and started it up, and it ran fine. One thing I did notice though was a different sound from the engine. I plugged the breather from the valvecover and air box but it almost sounds like the thing is running with the valve cover off. Or I sould say like it has an open breather. WHen I mounted the block off plate , I did not use silicone being that the mounting surfaces were o ringed. I hate to combine the two. I torqued the plates down plenty well and used the correct bolts that came with them. Has anyone else noticed a different engine tone after doing this mod ? I'm asking this before I take it all apart again for inspection.

OK, You just hijacked your first thread. Congrats. You'll need to be a little more descriptive about your problem, how it started, what you were doing before it started , how your bike is set up etc. Anyway, back to the original thread. Has anyone tried to mix colors to make a custom one? I would think that black with a touch of grey and silver and maybe a pinch of copper color mixed together would possibly emulate the color of the frame. Of course this would take some experimentation to see what happens but the DYI kits aren't too terribly expensive. Just don't use the electric oven in your kitchen. You cookies will never taste the same afterwards.

WHat was the question ?

link to detailed pic.

It can be welded. IF it were cast iron, I'd stray away, but because it's forged steel, with good heat penetration you'll be fine. Being that you are going to extend the side stand, why not just make up a little foot the same size as the one that's one the stand and drill/tap the hole to screw on an extension? Use some 10/32 screws ( nice and small but still strong ) and threadlock them in there. My $0.02 BTW, I'm on the other side of the arguement. I have to shorten mine by about an inch. I'll have mine TIG welded nice and strong.

One of the things about these aftermarket lowering links that I don't like is that they all use those "oil impregnated ) bushings instead of needle bearings. I have an extra OEM peice that I'm going to have extended.

Can you spell popped diodes ? I'd bet $$$ on that being the failure most of the time.

I wish I knew the answear to that question. I have not found out why they go rich when you open up the exhaust. It makes no sense. I would suggest that you have the bike put up on a Dyno with a gas analyzer though. It may be going rich at some RPM's and lean at others. This is what happened to my bike when I was running D&D's. Huge swings from major lean to overly rich in the RPM band.

Capitolist pig.

Speaking of sprockets,,,,,,, I have seen a brand of sprocket called " Tri-Metal" that I can't find much about online. It has a aluminum inner section and a hardened steel outer. From the looks of it, ( it looks pretty stout in person at least ) this may be a good choice for the XX if I can find one at a reasonable price. Anyone know much about these ?

That's not what your woman says. I beg to differ on that statement. While she gagging on the fumes at least.

Another important concern is weather or not you plan to keep the center stand. The akro system I don't think will allow that. I don't know about the micron.

I sometimes fart in my sleep too. It's nothing to worry about.

Jeff; Can you post a pic or two of your hybrid before nexxt with the plastics on? I haven't seen any yet.