beondwacko

I have a pilot road with about 4000 miles front and rear mixed riding no burn outs and still have lots of treads Left But at least in NJ, the roads make turns. Here in S.E. Florida, I'm not that lucky. If I were still up in NY, I'd venture to say if I were a little more conservative, and no drag racing I'd get close to 7K miles out of the rear tire.

I had a feeling about that. It's like riding a sportbike in light snow,,,,,, not a party. I guess it's only a pavement party for you for a little while then. You'll get to pracitce those wheelies in parking lots at least.

John01XX is running Powers on his Negrocat 660. I have not ridden it myself with those hoops, but he seems to like it. He's still learning ( getting used to it ) so we should find out some more in the not so distant future.

5,500 +/- with a pilot road rear. Mixed riding and about 65 passed down the drag strip. A couple of little burnouts here and there but not much.

I guess then that most people say that the JT's don't whine too much then. For the price, I can't go wrong. The sidewinder is a bit out of my price range at the moment I hate to say. I wouldn't mind doing a 17T/47 ( that's what I have now ) combo, but a stock 110 link chain won't be long enough for that without the axle being jammed all the way forward. Maybe.

You must be a "lightweight" for that thing to come up in third. I have not even had the pleasure of my bike wanting to lift in second. Then again, my bike is now lowered adn I tip the scales at 205ish. Are you running stock gearing as well ? I just had my bike tuned a few weeks ago and I picked up about 6 hp and extended the powerband to 11K+ rpm. Let me know if you want to give mine a try. I'll email it to you on request.

Looks like I'l be ordering an 02' or newer VFR 16T for the front then.

Yeah Yeah,,,, that was the one I was looking for. I can only imagine how much of your soul you had to sell to swing that $$$. How much were they at the group buy ?

Hi folks. It's beyond that time finally to do the chain and sprockets on the 01'. I'm looking for experienced opinions on various brands of sprockets. I'd like to go with AFAM, but I have not found a seller with line at a decent price. I'll be looking some more this week. I need to stick with steel and not aluminum for longevity, but I would like a semi light steel rear sprocket. Partmonster (Louie, congrats again on the newest little monster to your clan ) had mentioned to me that although the Sunstar peices look like crap and are heavy as all hell, they are also tough as nails. I have no experience with either JT or Parts Unlimited peices. Renthal I think only makes aluminum. There's brand called Tri-Metal that I had seen on a few bikes , but I can't find out much about them. Those are some nice peices with A hardened steel outer ring on an aluminum alloy center. Trick stuff, but only if I can find them. Post up and share the experiences. I'll be ordering something by next week I hope.

Also, put some SeaFoam into the fuel mix. It's better than dry gas for getting water out of the fuel.

Mitch; If you really want to dump some weight then ditch the factory headpipe along with the factory cans. THe factory headpipe is a bit restrictive around the collector which an aftermarket pipe like and Akro totally solves. THe slip on's are typically worth 4-6 hp at best over the slip on's. Either or, you'll want to get it mapped. BTW, On motor, what are your best times and mph ?

Somewhere on NOS's website there is supposed to be a index chart for the various jet sizes with fuel pressures applied. I just took a quick looksie to try to find it , but I ran out of patience. Yessir, you no doubt need to go noticeably smaller on the fuel side of hitting it with 42-50 psi vs 5-7 psi.

Injection below the throttle plates = FOGGER SYSTEM or NOZZLE Injection into airbox = "FOGGING THE BOX" Seperate fuel soleinoid = WET SYSTEM Add 10-15% to the fuel curve on the PCII or III from 6.5K rpm and up and you'll be fine with up to a 50hp shot in many cases ( but not all ). Otherwise on a 1100cc or larger, keep it jetted to 30 hp or less with the dry nozzle in good close proximity and aim to the AIT.

It's actually not a bad idea the ZEX system. What they do is monitor the nitrous pressure and add fuel accordingly, but how the dry system works, I don't know yet. Hey Ed, Do you have any of those 2lb bottles left? I need one for measurement purposes. Let me know when you can.

Ed, If I only had the time and money. Besides, I always liked the "sleeper / underdog". I coun't ever really go into any serious competition because of very regular inconsistancies on my behalf. I could go the full drag route on my bike with it being slammed and streched etc, but I still like to ride it comfortably a bit of distance every now and then. My goal with my bike is to be able to change it back and forth from track play trim to street trim un 30 min' or less. If I were serious about making it really fast , it would be apart by now anyway. Like I had mentioned recently, I just want to be kicked out of Moroso for going into the 9's and not being licensed to do so. I don;t even know if a 30 shot will get me into the 9's anyway. I was goingto moroso this past wednesday but I got rained out. I'm hopefull to get some mid 10.40's now that the bike is running better with the PCIII. I'll have my new chain and sprockets in a couple of weeks ( I'll be going 1 down in the front instead of 2 up in the rear ) which may help me go a little quicker as well. I supposet if I can get into the mid to high 10.30's on motor , that 30 shot shout put me into the 9's.

Setting up the horn button as the "hit" button is easy. You simply use a single pole double throw switch. You disconect the hot lead going to your horn itself and connect to one pole ( center position ) of the switch. Then if you look at the switch with that hot connected to it, the switch will allow you to send that power to one of two places at a time. So you send the power back to the horn in one postion and in the other position as the trigger signal to a good 20A+ relay in the other position. If you want ( and can find one ) you can even use a single pole / tripple throw switch and use one position of the switch to trigger a purge set up as well.

It sounds like a venturi slide is hanging up and dumping fuel onyl afer the throttles are pinned for a few moments. Was the bike ever sitting for any decent amount of time? It sounds as if the carbs need a professional going through, not just a quick looksie.

Nope. Because you wouldn't run more than a 40 hp shot at most and you'll be running 93 octane fuel, you should be OK. Any more nitrous than that then you would pull 2 degrees of timing out and go one heat range colder on your spark plugs as well.

If you were to go with a wet kit , you wouldn't have to do anything to your A/f ratio or jetting. All the fuel is added for you by the fogger nozzles. A dry kit would not work for your application though.

I bet his consistancy must have been all over the place for sure. What size bottle was he running in his 600? I'm looking to spray my bike just for the fun of it on test and tune nights. My consistancy isn't so great as it is.

Furbird, I was looking at that option again more closely just last week when I had the tank up. I dunno that it will fit by the looks of things. The fuel pump assembly on the FI bikes is right there hanging down from the rear of the fuel tank. It seems that the pump really cuts into the available space. Even if I were able to mount a 2 lb bottle in there, that would yeild about a full min' or 60 seconds of total spray time with a 30 shot. THat's more than enough. It's actually worth the pain in the ass to access it with that much capacity VS a 1 lb bottle. I'm going to have to lift the tank again and drop into that cavity a peice of foam and measure again. If I do have the space to put the bottle there, I'll construct a sleeve of some kind to cradle the bottle.

SOK, Go here. This is what you need. ebay link

Dude, I just realized something. You have a 97' XX right ?? If you do, it's going to get a bit more complex. Your bike is carbed , not injected. You shouldn't be doing a dry shot on a carbed bike. You'll need to do a wet kit with fogger nozzles (4). The plumbing gets a lot more involved when you go that route. You'll need a small fuel pump, a fuel pressure safety switch, a arming switch and a hit switch, and a few other little things. Being that my bike is an 01' , I can use a dry shot safely up 30 hp. The AIT sensor will see the instantly cold air charge ( when on the spray ) and will richen up the mixture. I can also adjust the map on my PCIII so as between 7K-11K , it can run a given percentage more rich to compensate.

I have an idea that I'm going to try once I get the peices parts. I have the soleinoid and the relay already. I may just sink a 1 lb bottle into the rear fender or use a pair of 8 oz bottles mounted in a simialr fashion. I'm totally hell bent on doing this and if you ask anyone who's worked on bikes with me they'll tell you that I can be anal about doing things to a decent degree of quality. I'll keep everyone updated about what I come up with and I'll post pics as well. I be the test bed on this idea. Just hang back a little and wait. Adam

Alrighty here's what the deal is from my recent research. I have been looking into this idea for about a month now and I also spoke with Furbird a little on the subject. The biggest problem is bottle mounting for us XX owners. A 10 oz bottle ( like a sneaky Pete bottle ) is too long measuring in at 16.5 inches to mount under the seat. You can fit a 2" diameter bottle in there but it can't be more than 11.5" long. That bottle must not use a siphon tube and you have to mount it with the valve facing backwards so when you accelerate, the nitrous in the bottle in a licquid state sloshes backwards. That's the same reason why you can't mount a 1 lb or 2 lb bottle along the rear fairings. It's leaning in the wrong direction. If you wanted to hide a bottle in a "dummy" muffler, again, the angle is backwards. When you deal with the angle being backwards , you'll never get anything more than just gas from the bottle, hence , it won't run right. You want licquid from the bottle, not gas and in order to get that, the bottle has to be oriented in the correct direction and angle. I have been banging my head against a wall :icon_wall: :icon_wall: :icon_wall: for over 3 weeks now trying to work this out. The possibilities are few to none. But if you have a single side exhaust, then you can correctly mount the bottle on the rear swing arm on the left side at the correct angle. Another thing that you want to keep in mind is that you will want to be able to remove the bottle(s) for refilling. For instance, if you are filling the little bottles from lets say a 10 lb bottle, you need to do a few things first in order to get a good fill. First thing is that you can apply a vacuum pump to the empty little bottle to remove the air that's in there. Secondly , you will get a more complete fill if you chill the bottle in the freezer before refilling it. These two steps are as about as effective as you can be if you aren't using a pump station to do your refills. I just want a little 30 shot. Enough to put me into the 9's at the track and get kicked off for not being NHRA licensed.