MrBadExxample

Correct, it's not an XX tank. The XX tank has a more pointy front and does not have mounting tabs at the front.

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lifer, Check that the chin fairing is properly secured. Many of the fasteners on the side fairings and chin fairing (piece in front of the headers) are secured with plastic push pins. They don't last long. Here's a short list of things to check: 1. Are the two side fairings pinned together under the bike. 2. Is a foreign object (rock, bolt, washer, tool, etc.) inside the fairings, perhaps the sides of the nose cowling? 3. Is the chin fairing secure - three push pins per side and a screw on either side at the bottom. 4. There is a shroud that covers the top of the radiator, is it properly positioned and secured? 5. Verify that there are the two placement nubs on the back of the headlight holding it in two large grommets in the cowling stay. 6. Is a foreign object lodged on the inside (back) of the header pipes? 7. Are the headers secured? 8. Is the centerstand spring nice and tight. When you push the bike off the centerstand, it should forcefully retract. There are two springs coiled inside each other that retract the centerstand. Also check the kickstand. 9. The cowling stay is bolted to the steering stem, are those bolts tight? If you post close-up photos of the front of your bike I'll let you know if I see anything unusual.

97/98 axles need 97/98 spacers. FI axles need FI spacers. With the right spacers, the axles are interchangeable.

I could use a set of damaged mufflers for an XX that will be strictly a track bike. I sold the pristine OEM mufflers to someone rebuilding an XX. So if you got AFU ones, lemme know. Thank You

I could use a set of 97/98 fork sliders. I have a fork set I want to rebuild. I have all the parts, except the sliders. Perhaps there's a part you need? Lemme know. Thank You

The 97/98 fork lowers need 97/98 outer fork bushings, which are the bushings that go into the fork lowers. 99+ fork bushing (inner and outer) are several mm taller that the earlier ones. I'm not sure if a 99+ fork seal kit will fit into 97/98 fork lowers, probably. Bottom line... I'm almost positive that the 99+ fork sliders will work just fine in the 97/98 fork lowers, but like said - you'll need 97/98 outer fork bushings and maybe a 97/98 seal kit. BTW, if I don't find some 97/98 sliders for an extra fork set I want to rebuild, I have 97/98 fork bushings and 97/98 for seal kits. All are brand new, unopened in the original Honda packaging.

What year is your XX?

Install a pair of D&D mufflers, you'll never hear the rattle again.

Dear life, Oh that sounds deep. Anyho... What year is your XX. If it's a 97 or 98, there's a plastic guide in the nose cowl that directs air to the oil cooler. Maybe it's loose. If the headlight is loose, it too can cause a plastic on plastic rattle. If it's a cold, rainy day at your location, like it is here, then remove the nose cowl and have a looksie.

Thank You Stan. I knew they were different, but I thought they were still compatible. Which I found out, is not correct.

Looks like a Zero Gravity Double Bubble

Every CR500 on Craigslist

Or look for a 180 tire with more of a "V" than a "U" shape. e.g. Michelin Pilot Road is very much a "U" profile tire, but the Pirelli Diablo is a "V" profile.

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I used have several DeWalt 18v cordless power tools. But I've been replacing them with 18v Home Depot brand ones (Rigid). In my experience, the DeWalt batteries last a little over a year, then they die. What sucks is that they cost $40 - $50 each to replace. Home Depot offers free batteries for life, including Li batteries. The tool itself is also guaranteed for life. Hopefully this means I'll never have to buy batteries again. Whatever cordless tools you get Li 18v is the way to go. IMHO

A year old pilot power for half off, I'd buy all I could.

Nice bird, frame plugs would look good too. See how easy it is to make suggestions when it's other people's money.

I have a motor. PM sent.

Hmmm.... Firstly, I don't care what the torque recommendations are, I tighten/loosen the stem lock rings nut to get the right feel - when turning the triple tree from lock to lock. I also put the bike on the centerstand and bounce the rear up/down, feeling for play between the triple tree and the frame. I'll assume the tapered bearing were clean and packed with grease.

Would it help to hold the butterflies in a fully open position? I don't have a FI bike, but it helps for attaching the cables on carbed bikes.

Not sure what you're refering to as far as holes being drilled, but this might help you... I'm guessing a previous owner drilled the shock-to-swingarm linkage plates.

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Stop fucking around with those little allen wrenches. Metric allen sockets is what you need.

Well kinda, The cam gears are already marked. Before you remove anything the crank and cam have to be in a specified position, RTFM. There are no bearing caps per se, rather there is an intake cam holder and an exhaust cam holder. Also I work on one valve at a time, you definitely do not want to lose track of where each shim and bucket belong. I use a Valve Adjustment Template