MrBadExxample

Hmmm.... Jeez, you might have answered your own question here. Ok seriously, let us know if you still need help.

Carlos, I built my work bench with a cutout that fits my miter saw. When I place the saw in the cutout, the surface of my workbench is flush with the deck of the saw. This makes it very easy to cut long/heavy boards or long pieces of molding. When not using the saw, a piece of plywood fits over the cutout, making the workbench surface continous again. I have the Dewalt sliding compound miter saw and absolutely love it. I'm sure the Hitachi you're considering is fine as well. The key to a good miter saw is the adjustability and precision of the deck and blade/motor mounting. HTH

Wow! great job. BTW, change your clutch and brake fluid. They're looking awfully dark.

Nik, One thing I haven't seen discussed yet that is very, very important is the max lifting height of the jack. Try to get one that goes as high as possible, which means it'll be a large and very heavy floor jack. But I don't think you have much choice. A jack with less than a 20" of max lift height might not get your wheels off the ground, depending on the jack point and the suspension travel.

Why were the carbs rebuilt? Unless the bike sat for a long time, a carb rebuild would not be necessary. Was something else occuring that lead to the carb rebuild? Consider adding a can of sea-foam to your next tankful, it'll clean the various circuits and orifices in the carbs. BTW be very careful with the starting fluid, or as like to call it "cylinder head cracking fluid".

gsus that's like two of you! That's almost as much as your track bike.

+1 Kiwimack makes 'em.

Anyone ever match mount their motorcycle tires? I did it on a car once to aleviate a tire wobble. Seems like a good practice, I wonder if it's worth it. Match Mount Tire Process

Attach a timing light to a plug wire and turn over the engine is a good way to test the coil and plug. Mike do you see any flaws in this test method? FYI Mike seems to really know his shit. Also understands cars/bikes/etc.

Once you get your seat off, make sure the cable casing for the seat release cable is clipped into it's bracket. The cabel casing needs to be restrained in this bracket or the cable casing will move when you turn the key instead of the latch releasing. The bracket is located about two inches left of the seat latch.

Good way to drop a bike.

Very, very good article. Seems more precise than the string method or perhaps the alignment marks.

If you are using Red J's block-off plates you need to make sure you did not install the block-off plates backwards. There are two small screws in the valve cover that attach the reed valves. The heads of those screws need to fit into the indentations on the block-off plates.

I certainly respect Dale's opinion. But I've always thought the low viscosity blends like Rotella Synthetic 5W-40W or Mobil 0W-40W gave better lubrication on startup, especially on cold mornings. Any truth to this reasoning? However the question was about running the desert.

I've never ridden on a Bridgestone, but a lot members think they suck. Based on my experience and those of others I'll be riding Michelin Pilot Powers for a long time. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...c=37446&hl=

Lay the suspected rotor on a piece of glass or a mirror. If you still can't visually see the warp, then try sliding feeler blades under it. I don't know if they can be turned or not, perhaps - as long as you stay above the minimum thickness stamped on the rotor.

The pressure on the door jamb I'm thinking would be the "recommended" tire pressure, while the pressure on the tire would be the max tire pressure. Do they both say max tire pressure? If so I wonder what the recommended pressure is?

80 grit sandpaper on a grinder will take it off. You know I'm kidding, right?

Oh a cleaning thread, of course I'm in. The two waxes/cleaners I really like are Honda Polish and Black Magic Liquid Wax (autozone or advance auto parts)

The Pulsed Air Injection system directs air from the airbox to the engine exhaust, some sort of emissions reduction?? Red J makes a kit that allows a clean removal of this system. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=31041

Y'all might remember last month I posted about the slight lack of midrange power in my XX. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=36711 Last weekend I replaced the spark plugs with the new OEM NGK Iridium plugs, my XX still had the original NGK platnium plugs. I also replaced the air filter, which was noticeably dirty. In addition I did an oil & filter change (Shell Rotella Synthetic 5W-40) and replaced the PAIR system with Red J's blockoff kit. The throttle bodies had a slight coating of gummy varnish, so I cleaned them. The result, a smoother idle, smoother midrange and little more power in the midrange. Nothing drastic, but definately noticeable, at least by my uncalibrated ass-dyno. Thanks Guys.

By chance did you get this idea from an FJR owner? I ask because I think what you describe is a common mod of the FJR, done to direct more air away from the rider. Supposedly FJR riders receive an awful lot of heat from the engine. Something I don't think is a problem with the XX.