racer212

One of the most under-rated bikes ever.

I have the aftermarket wheel, and I'm not gonna replace that. I would think if everything is the same at worst care maybe I need 97 model axel spacers and an outside chance of some brake rotors. Now that Ive thought about it, I think when I got the bike from JB4XX he told me the wheel on it was for a older XX, so it has early model spacers on it. I'll hit up Josh and see if that's right.

I think your right on that, but will those brakes go on my rotors?

What differences are there in the front end between a carb and 99/00 fuelie XX? Specifically, triples, wheels, fenders etc. Debating purchasing cbrbears Ohlins forks, trying to figure if it would fit my 2000 bird, or what I would need to put them on. I have RC Component wheels and stock brake rotors.

What the fuck?

Honestly Dave, I think you're way over tinkering it. Just drive it a bit. She sat for awhile in the winter and was a little cranky for a second. No biggie. Modern emission systems can be so sensitive that any little burp can trigger a code - if its gone and not coming back I wouldnt try to fix what aint broke.

Check ebay. My guess is $3-400.

Got some wiggle room on the forks? I'm interested, but $2500 seems hot unless I'm missing something.

I'm a bit partial to Pirelli, partly because I like the way they feel and partly because they used to send me checks when I hung out at the track. They have gone from merely pricey to just plain expensive though.

I'll be the first to offer you worthless trades if you'll pay shipping both ways.

Probably ought to state what year XX your stuff is from. There are a few differences. Just sayin...

Most guys that put 120/70s on the front of an old CBR or FZR frankly do it out of ignorance - most sportbikes use 120/70 so these must to. Which is fine - until your fender rubs in half or something worse happens. I don't know about where you are, but here in the US theres a lot of guys running bikes like the SV650 etc that use the 120/60 that they are easily found. You can run the 120/70 on the front if you relocate the fender (remember when hot and moving at speed the tire will swell several MM), but its really only recommended if you have an aftermarket shock that can compensate for the ride height change. The F2/F3 is steering is so sedate anyway that they really like to have the back of the bike jacked up in the air to steepen the steering angle.

Yeah, reality is older bikes are getting tougher to sell at any price... Ive got a B-E-Autilful 99 600F4 on the floor right now, like like new, runs like new, all stock. All the sportbike squids turn up their nose at it - and all the serious sportbike riders can afford something newer...

Ultra sonic is for sure the way to go if you have access. Fox shocks are the most common for F2's and F3's. They can still be found around ebay for $300 ish. That's what I have on my F2 and it works pretty well Ohlins used to make them for the F3, but I havent seen one in years. Elka probably makes one now that works for the F3, but a new one will cost you $1000. I have Traxxion cartidges and springs in my F2. A bit more expensive than Race Tech, and probably not worth the added expense. The focus on suspension is because these bikes dont have much in the way of ground clearance anyway. Put a big guy on stock springs and they have way less than that, and you'll be bottoming out the forks a lot - not great when you are leaned over. Go back to the stock front tire size if you can - the taller 120/70 actually slows the steering down because your geometery shallows. And, as you noticed, a stock fender will get rubbed in half by a 120/70 when they get hot. The F3 is maybe the most stable, forgiving chassis Honda ever built. They are way easy to ride fast, especially when setup for the right weight. Still lots of good aftermarket too. Mild cams and flatslide carbs on the track add good horsepower to the mix.

Never, ever happens. Well, not never - but if you had them apart and sprayed them and that didnt clear it, running fuel through it probably wont either. Suspension parts for F2's and F3's are finally coming down a bit too. You can still buy Fox shocks on ebay and Racetech goodies for the front and make a HUGE difference in how that bike will handle a guy your size.

Vacumn comes off #1 carb IIRC. I'd still go with carb clean problem. Carb cleaner and air doesnt do it well. A can of carb cleaner and submerge the carbs works better - but you need a big can to submerge the rack, or pull the individual carbs off the rack and do them individually. Pain in the ass, but works better. If you're getting rich at certain RPM only that's my bet. If you have low compression on one she'd be tougher to start, and you said she starts and idles well.

May I tactfully suggest this then.. uship.com

I agree - cant seem to get him to take my money though!

No response?

PM sent

I'd be interested in the Beitling and maybe the G-22. Price?

$156 and my CVS discount card.

One thing I love about the F2. 21 years old and I can get everything darn thing for it still. Seriously contemplating an all new new body and tank on her while it's still avalible in original color. Little powder coat on the frame, swingarm and fork she'd shine for like new money.

Honda OEM