Pete in PA

I'll put my vote in for 18, I like it. Less rpm on the highway, and as long as your jetting is spot on in the low range as mine is you won't miss the power. Also puts your speedo on dead nuts. Your odo. will read 6% low, but that hasn't bothered me as much as I thought it would. I don't think I'll be changing back.

The mistake a lot of you seem to be making is to purge ALL the fluid till there is only air in there. Don't. Pump the lever till you are almost sucking air and the reservoir is almost empty then hold the lever/pedal in the engaged position and refill. Continue till you get clean fluid at the other end. Don't make the job harder and introduce air into the system. The only time this is necessary is on a rebuild or hose change. If you have good stopping power now it will be fine. Any air in there is already in the system and in use every time you brake. It won't mysteriously appear unless you have a loose fitting or bleeder. Wouldn't hurt to run more fluid through as I described to get rid of any air.

I never could either with the Dynojet kit till I made it so rich it was getting 30 mpg so I removed it. Based on what I've read, I now think a Factory kit is the way to go. The DJ needle has too quick a taper I think. I went back with stock and just shimmed the needle with a tiny washer. How did the fact that you drilled the slides impact the way it ran after removing the kit? Working fine, seems to have improved throttle response.

Here Mike I searched the post for you. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...&hl=hornady Or maybe tweezers.

I never could either with the Dynojet kit till I made it so rich it was getting 30 mpg so I removed it. Based on what I've read, I now think a Factory kit is the way to go. The DJ needle has too quick a taper I think. I went back with stock and just shimmed the needle with a tiny washer.

Get yourself a L O N G phillips screwdriver. they are located on the shaft that pases through all the carb butterflys, between each carb. You'll need a flashlight also.

I used it for one oil change and didn't like the shifting. It was awhile ago, maybe I'll try it again. :icon_think:

Thanks Pete. I had shimmed the needles on my Kaw before getting the bird and it did make a difference. What about drilling the slides? Should I do that as well while I have the carbs off? I think I read to use a 1/8 drill bit? Mike I'd say leave the slide drilling alone for now. I drilled mine first for the Dynojet kit then later removed it. You can always do it later.

I want to mix 2 quarts of Mobil 1 5w-30 and 2 quarts of Mobil 1 15-50 to make a 10-40. I know the 5-30 is energy conserving but it will only be 2 quarts worth and I can't believe it will instantly cause my clutch to slip. Thoughts? I know they make a motorcycle specific 10-40 oil but it's $8 a quart. I can buy 5 qt. jugs at wally world for a lot less a quart.

While you have the carbs out remove the pilot screws and slot them with dremel so you can use a straight slot screwdriver to turn them. Lightly seat them and turn out 3 turns. remove each carbs vac. slide and shim the needle with a 25 thous. thick tiny washer. (in addition to the factory washer there) These 2 simple free changes transforms the lean condidtion on carbed bikes.

Since you had "C" in the wrong place your petcock is also malfunctioning allowing fuel flow when it should be closed. If one of yor carb floats stick open all 5.8 gallons will flow into the engine while it's parked. When you try to start next time if you don't smell or see the puddle of gas you'll hydraulic the engine and possibly bend a con rod. NOT GOOD. I'd remove it and check for rips in the diaphram. While it's in your hand you'll become familiar with how it works and never place the hoses/tubes in the wrong place again.

With my cars and bikes I just start it and let idle till the press. light goes off. Somebody did (is?) build a kit that has an electric pump to pre pressurize the oil system every time before you start an engine. I think it's over kill. Do you think the punks at jiffy lube or others pre oil your filter or first crank the engine to build up pressure before starting? Just never start a cold engine and rev it to the moon.

98 with 70 K miles, original washer.

That's what everybody's said... Stock, right out of the box, the speedo is about 8% optomistic, and the ODO is spot-on... Since the ODO counts pulses from the VSS, then if you fix the speedo, the ODO will be pessimistic by 8%... I know it shows 80 miles round trip on my car to work, and only shows like 73-74 miles on the bike with the 18T front sprocket, which, incidently, makes the speedo spot-on. Mike Exactly my experience. I now enjoy having my speed almost exactly right with the 18 tooth but now I'll get even less mileage out of tires.

I do. Had a adjustable one for a couple of years. Well jeez, we've been going back and forth about how 87 is fine in our bikes and you say it's not and you had an advancer the whole time. That changes everything.

Wow, even with the difference in gas price, it'll pay for itself ($70) in 3450 miles if you gain 4mpg! Mike Is it 4 mpg over the increase that you get with the 18 tooth sprocket or is it 4 mpg with the sprocket and advancer? That's 4mpg OVER the 18T, which I thought was what he said/meant?? Mike Ummm.....Yes? Yes the 4mpg is in addition to about 2 mpg with the sprocket change. I'll try to slow down now on changes.

So Joe, you had asked about the adjustable advancer awhile ago, have you done it yet? I'm amazed at the power with the fixed 4 degrees and 89 gas, wonder about more advance with 93 gas. Although I don't want to have to run 93 all the time.

No. I have a 97 since new. Never had anything but 93. It ran 10.42 at the track on a night with bad air. Must not be too bad for it. If you're going to keep using 93 at least get an ignition advancer to make use of it. You'll notice the difference immediately. I'm still loving it. Since I'm using the fixed 4 degrees with 89 gas, I'd get the adjustable and try say 7 degrees with 93 gas.

Went for a good ride yesterday and got 44MPG on the tank! If you figure in the 6% low odometer reading for the 18 tooth front sprocket I got 47 MPG. I filled up at 217 miles with enough showing on the gauge for at least 30 more miles. Now granted it was a more "touring" pace with the guys I was riding with but that's still great. It did include 2 blasts up to 150mph so not all slow work. I think at my normal pace it should work out to about a 4 MPG increase. Not bad for a performance increase product.

Ditto... But I've found that the OEMs are hard to beat. Ditto for me also. Same rotors with 70k miles.

So you were getting some pinging before the advancer on 87 paint brush cleaner? Yes I was getting exactly as per the owners manual. "Occasionally you may experience light spark knock while operating under heavy loads. This is no cause for concern, it simply means your engine is operating efficiently"

Here in the USA, it's just the CBR1100XX. In Europe, Australia etc. it's the Super Blackbird.

Well I'm back! WOW! I love it! The install went easy, only problem is it comes with the wrong gasket ($12 from Honda). It's close but not quite. I used it by cutting it and using about 1 inch of RTV to join 2 sections. I have the correct one on order. I took it out listening for pinging and there's slightly more in higher gears at full throttle between 3 and 4k rpm. I was almost out of gas so I filled up with the 89 mid-grade and after 5 miles to empty the float bowls no more pinging. I think 60 cents a tank is worth the performance increase. (I've always used 87 till now) What it does for part throttle is amazing! You know that feeling you have when you're cruizing down the highway at 70 with a 20 mph tailwind? It's like that all the time. The amount of throttle required to maintain speed is so small it's barely off closed throttle. It's got to improve MPG because of this. (I'll let you know) Throttle response and power is better everywhere, but the biggest improvement is in part throttle. Well worth the $72! This applies to 97 and 98 only. I can't comment on 99 and newer. Since they're FI, and have a knock sensor.

Well it should be here in the next 3 hours. I've got the XX standing by with the right lower off and the bolts cracked loose. Should take 1/2 hour tops and I'll be out riding, trying it out. Father's Day gift to myself.

Start with the easy first. run 1/2 a can of Seafom through with a tank. After that pull your petcock and check the diaphram for holes and do a fuel flow check. Then it's time to go in the carbs and check for clogged jets and torn vac. slide rubbers.