Pete in PA

Why do the FI XX's run so hot? It is a non-issue with the carbed ones. In stop and go traffic with fan on my gauge only goes 1/2 way. There was a post a while ago about carbed ones running too cool.

If you lay on the floor with bike on centerstand use your hands to rotate left caliper and feet to see if rear wheel is braked by these actions. 1/4" is right. you have to realize that the tourqe generated by the caliper during brakeing is far more then you can do by hand on the caliper. AND whats wrong with being cheap???? I rotate my pads to keep wear even. $80 for 3 sets of EBC's That's 1/2 a rear tire!!!!

Use a piece of pvc pipe inside under each fork cap on top of spring. It will take a couple of trys to get the right height. once it is done right you won't have to change it unless your weight changes drastically. For the rear, I had to remove the shock (not hard) to break the lock ring loose. Honda really tourqes everything. Once loose, reinstall and if you don't have a brass punch and are the gun sort, use a spent .22 rimfire case on the end of your punch so you don't chew up the preload rings.

Do it your self. Everone gets so worked up on dyno runs. What's important is what you feel every time you ride. I put in a dynojet kit, mileage dropped almost 10 mpg, seat of the pants I felt no diff. I dynoed before and after and basically the power curve moved 500 rpm lower so in other words it happens earlier. While rideing couldn't tell. Maybe if I put on pipes it would be worth it. It still would be near redline power increase though. Moral of my story, Jet kit removed, back to 40 mpg, power is fine. 135 on a Dynojet mod. # 150 Dyno. The kit comes with a drill bit to enlarge the slide hole which causes it to rise sooner so I am benifiting from that. Jet kit still for sale Make offer.

I've done the static sag ajustment. I set front and rear at 1 1/2 in. had to shim fork springs for front. I'm running the standard rebound setting in the rear. I also run 42 psi front and rear. Gives a more precise, light feeling in corners. Never had a traction problem.

Those new stripped screw removers from Sears. Never used them but look good on the comercials. :???:

Yes to combat the crown of the road I dress left all the time so bike tracks straight. Then I rotate my pads to even wear.

You guys change the front sprocket with a new chain don't you????????

Why grind the rivet down and then push it out? If you're going to bin the old chain,why not put on a cutting wheel and cut through 2 side plates like I do. 5 min, tops. Does anyone make just a riveter for cheap or know an "engineered" way to do the riveting free????? Still can't justify $100 for a chain tool I would have used once by now.

SOB!!!! Same thing happened on my bike!!!! My petcock diaphram was ripped too. I think it was installed partly folded at the factory. Mine was out of warantee by about 6 months, but I bitched long and hard to American Honda and they covered it. Yes it was the entire assembly. :cry: Check with K@L, they are an aftermarket company that make parts for carbs and petcocks. also check salvage yards. Good luck.

The factory chain is endless, no masterlink, installed over swingarm at factory. If it is an aftermarket DID 530 ZVM it came with a rivet type masterlink. Unless someone substituted a clip type for installation. If you lost your clip, the only thing holding on the side plate is friction. :shock:

As far as measureing your rotors for wear, since the pads don't ride all the way to the edge, a raised ridge will form if there is any wear. Most noticeable when trying to remove a caliper without pushing pistons in. I can't detect any on my bike even with a fingernail. :grin: My V65 Sabre had a high ridge on the rear rotor at 75K miles, the fronts nothing. Don't know why. :???: And no if anything I am a front braker, on the Sabre it was very easy to lock the rear.

NO braking is far more important than clutching, jerk off with the right hand!!!! I can now do stoppies with only my pinky.

O.k bike on centerstand, loosen right side axle bolt. Turn adjusters to move axle all the way forward. Count turns to put back when done. Derail chain to outside. remove axle nut and pull axle out left side. Rear caliper is in a slot on swingarm. Slowly roll wheel backwards to get caliper out of slot. Then lift caliper on arm out of way and remove wheel. Reverse to reinstall, tourqe right side axle nut to 76 ft. lbs. when adjusters are back where they were. Hope I didn't forget anything.

These bikes are very lean runners, pry that EPA mandated plug off and turn the pilot screws out an extra turn or 2.

I've found that if you work it up and down while pushing out you can get it to pivot more. Mine are so far out that there is a gap on the inside between the glass and the inside edge of the mirror housing.

My factory chain was a RK. Don't know which. It sucked!! 17 K miles and kinking worn past the L in the word replace on the sticker. I then put on a DID 530 ZVM and sproc. spec. cogs. now at over 34K miles, I think I adjusted twice, no kinks, nice and smooth. Wish I had been on this site before I did this, could have kept the rear cog. :cry:

Yes, why are you replaceing the clutch?????? If you go in there, replace the metal plates also. They can warp out of true, glaze over, and loose their temper from heat. They don't cost much, why go in there again. While in there check your clutch basket where the notches go for the discs for roughness or slotting. In my V65 Sabre, I replaced the factory clutch at 20k miles with a Barnett. Just starting to slip. I sold it at 72K miles. The guy I sold it to is now at 90k miles, same clutch. Barnetts are good.

From your description, I don't think your GPS mount has anything to do with it. It mounts on the master cyl. reservoir right? After re, re, reading your post I think when you say instrument cluster you mean left handlebar switch housing?? If your mount is really jammed in there it may have tourqued the switch housing, they don't take abuse well. since you lost horn and headlight it prob. is a problem it the left housing. It sounds like the pin that goes in the hole in your handlebar is broke, that's why it spins. I would assume when you buy a new left switch housing it has all the switches in it but I don't know. To hook up you would have to follow down the wire towards the head light and find where the connectors are. Hope this helps.

Better yet, duct tape on rims when you remove calipers to protect paint. I use 2 4x4's under the forks and a bottle jack under the front, center bolt on the oil pan as back-up.

I REFUSE to pay someone for something I can do myself. You have the manual, that is all the battle. Pretty straight forward, just the one bleeder on the rear caliper that is the LONGEST. It runs from the rear mas. cyl, to the front and back to the rear caliper. Takes a long time for the fluid to flow clean, have a lot of new fluid on hand. Once you're flowing, with the right amount of opening on the bleeder you can just keep pumping, keeping an eye on the reservoir.

With the Zero Gravity DARK SMOKE you can't see behind the insturments even with a spot light.

No, Wally World doesn't sell the MX4T. That's at Auto Zone for $8-9 a qt. :shock: :shock: After reading the oil analysis article from moto. consum. news. There is no difference. EXCEPT $4-5 a qt. I accept no responsibility expressed or implied, your clutch life may vary, live long and prosper, may the force be with you. Serriously, my clutch will expire right along with yours. But with all the guys running this stuff I don't think it will be a problem.

For the first time I found the 5 qt. Mobil 1 15-50 in Wal-mart. $18.88 Got sick of hearing about it from left coast guys. Bought 2! :grin: I think these things start on the west coast and move east, can anyone in marketing verify this?

Here's what I do. I got a section of pvc pipe with an inside diameter just slightly larger than my grips. I cut two pieces the same length as the grips and slip them on. Then just use these points as tiedowns. No damage to your grips, I have seen Canyon dancer's destroy grips. Also you have to tie the rear of the bike or it will hop around over bumps.