Pete in PA

Has anyone worn out the front Avon 45? I'm starting to think my new combo might be Avon 45 front, B'stone 020 rear. Unless I come up with something else I'll get a 020 for the rear. Still have some time. I still think the tire co.s aren't giving us what they are capable of. They don't WANT the tires to last too long, they sell more! :evil:

You must have an aftermarket shock Rock. The hard/soft on the origional shock is rebound damping. You have to turn lock rings to change preload. I sugest you do a complete suspension setup from static sag on. It's in the latest Motorcyclist. (again) You can get a smother ride by tightening spring preload if now it is too compressed.

The C-clip can be rotated on the 8mm bolt, I use the open end to mark the flat I'm using to keep track of allignment. I have found no other use for the clips.

Yeah just like Swamp got 7.5K out of his rear avon and I may get 3k miles.

Once the axle nut is tight the 8mm bolts don't do anything, just snug them tight so you don't loose your settings. You guys do know to use that C-clip to mark your flats on the 8mm bolts? Once you're alligned you count flats on the bolts to keep wheel alligned.

69 ft. lbs. at 70 it blows a rod. :razz: BTW NEVER loosen bolts with a torque wrench. It will throw your calibration off. And the loosening spec. you get won't match the correct tightening spec. anyway. I can't see at 69 that your axle is slipping. It all gets pinched between the swingarm.

6500 miles with 5/32nds left on the rear?!!! I've never ran ME Z4, has anyone else run them and gotten this mileage? Haven't checked MO's yet for the 100X. Why did Michelin update a tire and make it worse IMHO? I see this too often.

I remove the left fairing also. I like to clean up the dribbled oil from the engine case and check for leaks when running. It's too easy to remove not to do it.

Are the 100x's deffinately discontinued? I've seen them and even 90X's in brand new catalogs yet. 10k miles out of the 100X? how do they handle? any cupping on front? Maybe I'll try this next. If I like a tire, that gaurentees it will be discontinued.

I've been wanting to look into this also. My ass burns after a long day in the saddle. It's going to take a long time for me to find it but there was an article in a bike mag. about a company that uses closed foam instead of the stock open foam to build your seat. It doesn't flatten out. Anybody else heard this?

Well the hype didn't pan out at least for me. The avon 46 on the rear has 3/32nds left at 2500 miles. I've ran a couple of 020's on the rear and got about 5500 miles till bald. I never had a problem with their handleing just the fronts cupping. Any mileage reports from Michelin? Roads, 100X ? I need to make a decision soon. I like my next tire to be waiting in the basement to be mounted before I need it. Help me out guys, Thanks, Pete

Have you hooked up a voltmeter and checked chargeing? Sounds like you are operating on battery output alone. Are you using a Battey Tender? I would hook mine up after every ride so it took a while for me to realize my reg. was dead.

I've been rotateing pads since 15k miles, now 35.5k Same EBC HH pads. Still more then 1/2 life left. No issues, glazing etc, just 4 perfectly even pads. :grin: For cleaning rotors brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner what ever you have around.

Due to the manual saying "extended use of choke will impair cylinder wall lubrication" I use choke to start engine then shut off as soon as possible (30 sec) and use throttle lock to warm engine till it responds to throttle (about 1 min) and ride away.

Yes. :roll:

$3 a bottle Turte Wax liquid works for me! Never heard of it and at $100 I won't. :shock:

I hope you had tapered rollers installed and not the shit stock ball bearings. Another weak spot IMO, right there with CCT and REG.

I thought it was the freeway miles that eat my tires in the middle. I only dream of being able to wear edges first. Maybe if I only used the bike only for cornering and lived on the curvy road I could but I commute 30 miles 1 way with some corners so I always wear out the middle.

I always thought it was heat (besides hard acceleration) that made tires wear faster. I have also thought of the too high tire press. wearing the middle faster. I'm going to drop rear to 38 also, WTH tire about dead anyway. Front at 4/32nds, was 6/32nds new. I think I'll drop it too. Absolutely no cupping though. :grin:

I'm starting to wonder if it's our shitty roads in PA, but I think that would be offset by the hotter temps in the southwest. This tire thing is REALLY starting to irritate me! Every time I think I found my new tire something goes wrong, cupping, wear etc.

I'm glad I'm not the only one whose head is going to pop. The Computrack is for bikes several locations throughout the country, I have'nt been there yet and they didn't mention XXs in the article. I am really questioning my allignment now that Swamp got 7500 miles out of his Avon rear and I'm at 3/32nds at 2500 miles. Hopefully the chain and wheels come into allignment together but I doubt it.

Swamp, How did you get 7500miles to bald out of the rear?? at 2500 miles I'm at 3/32 in the middle. Did I get a bad tire? I'm running 42 psi is it too high? Am I out of allignment? Or will the wear rate slow down now and I will get 7500 miles?

It's all about mfg. tolerances. If we trusted them we would go by the lines on the swingarm. Computrack does laser allignment checks of brand new bikes and can tell you by model what will be off. Motorcyclist covered this a while back and they had a R6 that the wheels were offset a 1/4 in. but they at least got them inline. So my question remains, what is an easy way to get the tires precicely inline?

Well, here is the first negative thing on the 45/46"s At 2500 miles the rear is down to 3/32nds :cry: I don't do burnouts, just ride pretty hard. If the wear rate doesn't slow down this could be almost the worst rear for wear i've used. Starting to question allignment again, in another post. The front is great, no cupping, forgot to measure though. Already thinking what next, Roads? Will see how they wear when you guys start wearing them out.

The problem with the wood dowel method is it gets the tire square in the swingarm but not to the front wheel or for that matter to the front sprocket. I'm still looking for a way without buying a 6ft. carpenters level. The string thing is a pain and I didn't trust the results. I'm also theorizing that the deceleration wobble we get is from wheels being out of allignment.