Pete in PA

A whole book can be written on this subject but in a nutshell...each combustion cycle in each cylinder can be slightly different due to cylinder filling, flame propagation etc. For max fuel economy you want enough air to burn all the fuel. For max HP you want enough fuel to use all the oxygen. For emissions cars are set at the stoichiometric ratio of 14.7 to 1. An engine will run as lean as 17 to 1 and as rich as 12 to 1. You can't have one set A/F ratio over the entire RPM band for best power until true variable cam timing goes into production.

Well I'm almost back to stock carb settings, only difference is my larger slide vac. hole, 5 thousandths higher needle, and 2 turns out on pilot screw. Ran fine at 42 deg. f. so I should have my 40 mpg back. I only got 70 miles on her yesterday in this mode. Makes me wonder why I changed everything. Maybe just needed a good carb. cleaning. And yes I'm back to needing the choke at 30 degrees this morning.

Well I'm going to yank the carb bank again this morning. I'll check the choke plungers on all the carbs and I'm putting the stock pilot jets back in and lowering the needles a little. I'm having problems finding tiny washers in the right thickness, may try sanding down brass ones thinner. I want it to run great but still want my 40 mpg.

If anything drilling the mufflers should lean out the running and give me better mileage. In the service manual it shows how to remove the enrichener plungers but no way to check them. I might as well pull them and look though.

How would I check for leaking? They all move with the choke lever and fully close, I check this every time.

Maybe I'll go back to stock pilots, I should go back all the way to stock and start over since I only started taking detailed notes halfway through the process. :icon_banghead:

So where's the big difference? The #45 pilots don't even seem bigger visually, my screws are at 2 turns out, and my stock needles are shimmed an extra 15 thousanths. Looks like I'll be able to ride today and tomorrow, I'll see about MPG.

I bumped up the pilot jet 1 size from stock and the pilot screw is out 2 turns. This morning at 38F (bike outside all night) I could start it by just cracking the throttle with no choke and feathering the throttle. Can anyone else who is jetted start their bike sans choke? I bumped up my pilot jet because I had the screw at 3.5 turns out and read that passed 3 turns out you should go up 1 size on the pilot jet. The riding year is dwidleing down but I hope to get a few tanks through to check mileage.

Actually, the fiche lists two different shocks: 52400-MAT-003 SHOCK ABSORBER, RR. (According to Honda Parts Catalog, this one fits 1997 and 1998) 52400-MAT-E01 CUSHION ASSY., RR. (According to Honda Parts Catalog, this one fits 1999 and up) Yeah I saw that, never heard it called a "cushion ASSY" before. Maybe I will see if someone has one lying around.

http://www.rotella.com/press/article_68.html Looks like the new Rotella will be even better.

You have to check all Wal Marts near you. Some have a much better stocked automotive area than others. The one I was just in over the weekend had both Rotellas in 5 gallon pails, in addition to the 1 gallon and quart size. Also 1 gallon Castrol GTX in 10w-40 which may also be one I try next year.

Interesting. I checked Ron Ayers fiche and they only list one shock. I was pondering running an add for a 99 and newer shock for my XX since they suposedly lessened the compression damping from 97 and 98.

Just turning the screws in is only one part of a 4 part process. There are 5 positions on the needle that can be changed, don't know if the main jet is right, what pilot jet went in, and then there is the pilot screw adjustment. Here is a great step by step procedure on jetting. http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtune,CV...pm_engines.html I'll be yanking my bank again Sunday suposed to rain all day anyway. Still not quite right.

Will be interesting to find out. After I use up my stock pile of various oils I'm mixing I'll need something new.

I know some still don't approve, but I continue to rotate my front pads so the wear stays even with no ill affects. If I can avoid blowing $60 just for one worn out pad out of 4 I will.

Here's mine. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...c=30221&hl= I know no pics, not as fancy as Warchild's.

anywhere from only 3/4 to closed! This is how they pass the EPA polution tests. Funny thing is per the manual the final opening after the idle drop procedure (ignore this) is 3/4 open, but then in the high alltitude setting they have you close the pilots 3/4 a turn. That would close them all! How would it idle?

I'll even pull the bank of carbs to adjust the pilot screws. I don't know how anyone can do anything under the carbs/over the engine/coolant pipes. It's got to be WAY quicker to just remove the carbs. While they're out, remove the pilot screw and slot them with a dremel so you can use a screwdriver. Follow the manual and the only problem some have had is once the carb bands are loose the bank doesn't want to release from the engine. On reinstall, coat the rubber with grease for next time and they will fall off.

I pulled this up again because THAT was my question...How do the pilot jet and pilot screw work, seperately or together. On the XX the pilot screw adjusts fuel at idle, turned all the way in, no fuel. This last time I just pulled my carbs I looked closely and the pilot screw is it's own seperate circuit. It bleeds fuel for idle only. as soon as you crack the throttle plates, the pilot jet also comes into play and only then do they work together. I also went from the stock 42 to 45 (next available size) and just looking down the hole at a white background with both next to each other I can't see that the 45 is bigger. It must be a REAL tiny amount.

I just had mine apart again (GROAN) in search of perfect running without too low mpg. They keep changing the gas twice a year. :icon_doh: Yes each has a drain on the float bowl. I just remove the carb bank and take it outside and turn them upside down and back a few times to drain, much quicker. I get the basement stinking of gas several times a year, pissing off the wife. The vac. petcock should stop the flow with out vac. Good time to opp. check it. For the bowl screws have a newer form fitting screwdriver and they should come out fine. If not, use an impact screwdriver.

98 Bird...My speciality. Did you buy it recently with all those mods or did you do them yourself? I had a Dynojet kit in the begining, (I've owned mine since July of 99) and I got it running great but to get rid of a hesitation at 3500 rpm it ran really rich. 32 mpg rich. I long ago went back to the stock needle but shimmed. I think the Dynojet needle has the wrong taper. You can get 38 mpg this way, and good running.

How did you mount the horn against the frame? Got any photos?? Hose clamp, works great. I was going to drill and tap a hole in the frame but this was easier.

Here's where I got mine. http://erston.com/stebel.htm I'm also surprised you mounted it in the stock location, doesn't it hit the fender on hard braking? That thing is so loud it doesn't matter where you mount it.

I'll give you a review. I used the ones from superbright LED's in the rear and had a problem you wouldn't think of. Due to the extra weight of the bulb VS. a regular bulb along with road bumps it would flicker and not be at full brightness going down the road. This was noticed by a buddy behind me at night. I took the socket apart and stretched the springs for the contacts to try to tighten up the connection to no avail. The bulbs are just too heavy. I'm now back to using regular bulbs.

400 miles so far and no slipping. I think my new oil will be 2 quarts of Mobil 1 5-30 and 2 quarts of Mobil 1 15-50. Wally World SHOULD carry those oils forever.