Pete in PA

I have heard of 900RR's starveing the oil pump in a wheelie and spining the rod bearings but not one XX. This sounds fishy to me also, hold out for the regional rep. to see the bike and see what he says.

This does belong in the garage, luckily I decided to go to the Pub tonight. :roll: From your description it does sound like a loose clearance on a valve although this doesn't usually happen all of the sudden. at 40k miles I've personally looked at my valves 3 times and logged the clearances. Intakes no change. Exausts change up or down 1 thou. still in spec. If normal wear it won't be covered under warantee. sorry. Please let us know what it is as this is very rare.

Fram had a problem a few years back with the can seperateing from the base with the inevitable result of a wreck. Happened to several bikes, with lawsuits etc. I've been useing purolator bike filters, no probs. With all the cross building going on, this co. makeing 3 brands of filters, who knows what you're buying. :roll: :evil:

If the threads aren't too bad try running a tap in it. Methinks a dealer tightened the plug too tight. I've never used a tourqe wrench on drainbolts on any of my vehicles and never had a problem. Still on factory washer also. :razz: I did try once to dry out a fouled plug from a lawn mower in a gas barbeque. It melted :!: :oops:

The adjusters are for just that, adjusting. Once you tighten the axle nut to 69 (why not 70 :roll: ) ft. lbs you could throw the adjusters away. Something else is amiss here. Are the spacers all in and in the correct location? If the swingarm bolts were loose the allignment marks still wouldn't change. What about the hub assembly, is that all together correctly? I'll ponder awhile more.................

Buy a Battery Tender. best invention for bikes. hook it up and forget it. A fully charged battery won't freeze. A dead one will at 32 F. I don't even do the Sta-bil, I just stick the exausts out the basement and run once a month to get fresh fuel in the carbs. I do run it till warm.

A tip for all you out there that keep being "surprised". Every time you start your bike watch your headlight/instrument brightness. When you rev the engine off idle you should see a slight brightening of your lights. If not your electrical system is running off the battery alone and will slowly kill it. When you notice this get your multimeter out and get a voltage reading ignition off then start the bike and rev. it and see if the voltage goes up.

Just as they are out of the package. Don't add the factory pads, plastic or metal. When I push my bike backwards I get a faint squeal also.

I was scroling down to answer your question and you answered it. :roll: Never open more then 1 drawer at a time on your roll around. VERY top heavy! Glad you and XX OK. I personally remove the left fairing for access and cleaning/inspection.

Every Spring I go to a local bike shop that does a HP shootout. The only thing that stops it is rain. The rear tires just slip on the drum. How did they run bikes that day? My bike got 135 HP on a model 150 Dynojet Dyno.

Most of the "wear" metals in an engine aren't attracted to magnets.

Thanks Jimmy, I think I'll try a Wix or Purolator pure 1 next.

That rod catches all your chain lube goo throw off. It can be a big mess under the cover. I don't know why it had to be routed right there.

For Apolloxx, if I try that I would have to do it in a Wal mart in another county. That way if I get caught I don't get delivered to the prison I work at. That would not be good. :shock:

Geez, knock it off with the math already! What do you guys do for a living, figure out decaying orbits for satelites so they don't crash on us? I'm happy I can figure out gearing ratios if I change my gearing. :roll:

Checked the price of the 5 qt. Mobil 1 15-50 at wally world. Shot up to $22 from $18.88 :evil: I'm now running this stuff in my XR also. NEED MORE :!:

Boy Joe, a little bored there or new abacus to play with? :razz: Now imagine, there are a couple of bikes out there with 13 factory teeth, you might as well R@R the front sprocket every 2k miles.

Mine were slightly notched when I bought it used. 3800 miles. I added grease to them and rotated the bearings (not the races) and adjusted them several times, no help. Now they are more notched. I don't do wheelies, ( I leave that for the XR) but I do loft the front end off of slight pavement rises.

Cold air going in doesn't allow the fuel to atomize as quickly(remains in larger drops) so it leans out the mixture. Cold air is actually more dense. When it drops below 45 deg. F. my bike gets a hesitation when you whack the throttle wide open at 3500 rpm.

I plan to replace mine this winter (sooner than I think, 32F this morning :shock: ) After I do I will do a write-up on it.

I have given thought to doing exactly that. You almost have me doing it but with my luck I'll snap a weld. :cry: Do you have the small "window" where you can look at the fork tube through the Heli or not? I think mine is the older design with the window.

I've still got my factory battery. Bikes a 98. The reg/rec. can fry open or closed. It can send 18 volts to your battery, or no chargeing current at all. Can also be intermitent, so don't just hook up your multimeter, get a reading, and stop. Take a reading for a couple of minutes. When my reg/rec. went bad it would read around 14 volts for a min. then shoot up to 18 for 2 seconds, then back to 14. Check the important threads section. The Yamaha R1 Reg. is the cure, just like the X-11 CCT is the cure. Use the Electrex troubleshooting tree it is excellent.

I'm still running a tank with Techron Fuel system cleaner in it. What a difference! I didn't have any driveability problems (I thought) but now it runs faster, better throttle response, smoother pick up, I like it! I'd meant to run this stuff earlier since I saw carbon on my intake valves but forgot. All for $6.

A sweet smell can also be coolant. look for any dribbleing at hose clamps that need tightened.

It is much easier to never (on purpose) introduce air in the system. I just pump the old fluid through till reservoir is almost dry, hold lever in applied position (zip tie) clean rest of old out with a clean rag then fill with fresh fluid and pump till clean fluid is at my clear tube.