Warp11XX

It's not as bad IMO as it seems at first glance. A slow DIY job sure beats the mugging you would get taking it to a stealership.

IIRC I had 10 lines including clutch in my kit. I ordered mine for the '03 model. I can inspect this evening if you like...???

I would check the following in order: Charging system - simply confirm 14VDC at battery when running 1500 rpm or more Spark Plugs - inspect, clean, or replace for peace of mind. Leave all plugs in place, use known good spare 7th plug to test for good blue fire from coils at each plug cap individually while cranking or running at idle Assuming all above checks good, spend all day Saturday removing plastic and carbs for a complete manual cleaning. Call a Japanese friend with 9" long fingers and incredible dexterity. Invite him over. Drink beer and take your time Put the giant beast back together Sunday while recovering from all the beer Saturday. Curse your now AWOL Japanese friend and his ancestors repeatedly. Sync the carbs. Ride it to work Monday... Good luck!

Please expand on the actual process.... I may do that. I've cleaned my 1994 Mazda 323's headlight with toothpaste.. wax on, wax off.. rinse with water, it's that easy. Not back to original clear lense, but good amount clearer.. Ditto...cheap and relatively easy. Toothpaste is about as fine an abrasive as you can commonly find. For the really yellow and nasty lenses, a quicker alternative is to just use a damp rag sprinkled with baking soda, and then a final polish with the toothpaste and coated with Honda polish.

Original Colgate tooth paste and some free time is all you need. No really...it works. Use Honda polish to keep it looking good longer after you get them clean.

+1 even though I'm freezing my ass off this week on the Bird because the Wing has charging issues and damn near metal on metal brakes. Sucks it does ! :icon_snooty:

Amputate your pinkie... problem solved. Sorry no help here....

Molybdenum is best. What did they look like? The splines are where all of the Valkyries eat their drivetrain over time, mostly because most dealers don't even bother to check them. I'd look at the cush drive, as well. The little rubber bumpers dry and split. Splines on the output shaft looked good, u-joint is brand new OEM. Driveshaft and final diff is replacement in used, good condition. Same problem before and after changing these components. After that, I'd check the u-joint and the output shaft for play. After that... None present. Does have very slight runout by observation of the front section of the u-joint while spinning/running on centerstand. Can't confirm yet if runout is in the acceptable/normal range and haven't indicated it yet. I estimate a few thousandths by observation and feel. No luck so far finding a stated tolerance for this dimension. Bearing on output shaft seems good with no discernable side play. Suspect a possibility of micro-bent output shaft at this point. Requires engine pull to service that area. Look at the rear shocks -- I know a couple folks that bent the shocks and didn't know it. The rubber top shock mount inserts also go bad. Both conditions manifested themselves as weird vibrations. Good suggestion and haven't addressed that possibility yet. Since it is a repeatable problem on the centerstand, that almost eliminates suspension doesn't it? Most of my off-the-top-of-my-head knowledge about 1500 machines is from Valkyries, but they're not that different. Not really....just a bit lighter weight maybe...

Yes and no.... I used a red flavored, hi-pressure grease, but not moly. Was this possibly an "oops, my bad" moment?

I finally got around to doing the swap on my leaky rear differential, and replacing the swingarm to trans boot and u-joint. I've had a small but persistant problem ever since I've owned the bike. It is a '92 Aspy if that matters. The problem seemed related to the wear condition of the Dunlop tires I was running. At least it became much more noticable and intense, seemingly related to how much the rear tire was worn and cupped. The problem appears when I let off throttle and try to hold it in a "null" position while riding. At that throttle position, a vibration becomes apparent that feels as if something in the driveline is not quite running or spinning "true". As long as I have power to the wheel driving forward, or am at throttle off position while using the engine to slow down under compression, there is not the slightest vibration that I can feel. Only when coasting at neutral throttle (which I actually do a lot more than I ever noticed before) does the vibration become noticable. I found out by accident this weekend that it also does it at a significantly noticable level if I'm running 70+ and simply pull the clutch in to just coast in gear, but not being under power at all. The faster I'm going, the worse the vibration seems to be. I'm thinking at this point that it must be something in the final transmission drive such as the output shaft bearing being really badly worn. I did a lot of work and made several changes at one time...a different (used) differential and driveshaft, a new u-joint, and changing to new Michelin Pilot GT tires. It used to seem that the problem did not get to the noticable level it is now on brand new tires until the tire got significant mileage and started to show the first signs of cupping, and at least the first small sign of higher mile center flat spotting. It's annoying as all hell since it "walks" in and out of this vibration in normal riding conditions up and down hills and such as I adjust throttle. What do you guys think?

Goodridge USA wouldn't even call me back when I was shopping for lines...so I say "fuck em!"... :icon_thumbsdown:

"Parts" as in the whole unit itself, or a component in it? Other option may be using a controller from Gerbing, Widder, or other heated gear suppliers. They are pretty pricey though compared to Dual-Star stuff and may not be worth it or fully compatible. Just a thought....

Bingo! :icon_thumbsup: You won't ever like dropping the coin on Hel lines, but you won't be sorry either. It gives a HUGE increase in available stopping pressure, fits well, and looks really, really nice when installed. Just prepare yourself to spend most of a day installing and bleeding the brake system on the Bird...10 lines w/clutch...DAYYUM .

Mike, Cheaper alternative is to de-link and get Galfer lines from CycleBrakes. I have Galfers on my 900 and love their performance as well. They aren't as "pretty" as the HEL lines, but are functionally AWESOME! Checking local suppliers has led me to some deals as well. A local shop here can do the lines on a custom basis, but can't get the exact replacement plumbing that makes the HEL's work really well. You could simply adapt standard fittings and use clips/clamps/ties where needed to fit them to your CBR. Just a thought.... Good luck!

Yer SUCH a big tease... :icon_needpics:

This is a good company... Vizi-Tec Linky They took a lot of pains(ultimately unsuccessful) to find the connectors for the Blackbird taillights. They offered me a discount on purchasing without plug and play connectors and it worked out beautifully with Clear Alternatives regular LED tailight assembly. They will custom design programs for you if they can.

HEL U.S.A. HEL U.K. High dollar, but NICE! :icon_thumbsup:

Aja, Thanks for the reply. You have the general idea, but I'm not concerned about future owners having a problem. I own the "new" well and site and will "share" water service with the soon to be constructed house that my daughter is planning adjacent to my property. Is this the way to go...??? I'm thinking of installing a large pressure tank at the well control building/wellhead and operating it at a high enough pressure to feed two houses, one at 600 ft. distance but nearly level from wellhead, one at less than 300 ft. (my daughters' house), and using the pressure switching system that controls the pressure tank and submersible well pump/controller to regulate the "flow" to the houses ie: pressure drop activates the pump (well is 400 ft. deep and pump is hung at 370 ft. or therabouts). Do I need additional jet or pressure pumps, or another pressure tank setup at the houses? Is this the most efficient and economical way to do this? Will I, or how do I become capable of maintaining 60 psi average water pressure in both residences?

Yeah...thats what I'm sayin... Seriously though...the "new" well has been disconnected from the community supply it provided previously. The county we're in here has recently provisioned the neighborhood with public water. I'm another 600 feet vertical rise on a mountainside from the last connection and the county PSA exempted me taking advantage unless I funded and provided the additional pumps and excavation work (1/4 mi.) to get it to my house. That o'tay with me since I don't wanna drink their nasty ass New River water mixed with Clorox chaser anyway. :icon_snooty: Both my current well and the new well are separate aquifers and don't seem to affect each other at all. My current one is less than 2gpm flow. We have fairly unique geology here...limestone does fun/funny things...like gaping holes suddenly appear in the planet for no apparent reason. Most recent one was the Coca-Cola truck pulled into the parking lot of a local convenience store. Driver went in to inform store employees of the delivery. Walked back out and only half of his trailer on the mini tractor-trailer was sticking out of the ground :icon_shocked: . HTF do you explain that to your dispatcher/supervisor/insurance rep? Uhhhhh... the Earth ate my truck boss. Another family in a nearby town walk out on their front porch one morning and immediately noticed that the front yard was now a 60' diameter by 35' deep meteor crater about 10 steps from the front walkway. Another oddity....in the neighborhood below my house is a well that is estimated to be 1000+ gpm....go figure . Lots of drill bits get lost off rigs around here when they punch into caves. That's an expensive fix... I'm puttin a bump in The Pub to try and get some more views and advice...

I've had problems with capacity and flow rate of the well I have feeding my household now. I recently acquired an adjacent property that has a much higher flow rate well available for my use. I need to configure this well to feed two households with fairly heavy usage demands. The "new" well is approximately 11gpm flow and previously supplied 50 households in conjunction with a 14,000 gallon storage tank. I don't have access to the former storage tank and it wouldn't help anyway...it's located approximately 300 feet vertical drop from my house. The well in question is 400 ft. deep and located on nearly the same ground plane at the wellhead as my home is now. The other home will be approximately the same level as well. Distance is 600 ft. to the wellhead from my current indoor pressure tank. What do I need to do to configure this well to meet my needs? I'm thinking that I may simply need to relocate my industrial size pressure tank to the well building and plumbing it out to the two houses. Am I anywhere in the ballpark of being on the right track? The second house will actually be constructed closer to the wellhead than my own house is now, if that matters. The well itself has it's own electric service and meter, so I am assuming that control can/could be done through pressure switches...??? You guys know everything else....why not this too... Thanks for any insight!

:icon_doh: DOH ! How have I missed that? Thanks Alan... Anyone have any direct experience with the 412HD series shock on a Wing? Like? Dislike? Worth $300?

It's a '92 Aspencade. I can't find anything to "upgrade" the rear suspension to a heavier spring...maybe I'm not looking in the right places. I couldn't afford a huge investment like Ohlins or Works right now, but something priced in the typical range of Progressive suspension stuff might find it's way to my garage soon, if it was available. Right at the moment I tip the scales at 328 pounds. If I actually knew the SO's specs, I'd undoubtedly be sworn to utmost secrecy under penalty of death, but I'm guessing at 130-ish. That is 460 on the seat with no allowance for what is in the bags, and I have a fairly large Hannigan trailer behind me at times. The tongue weight is pretty low though...I doubt it is adding very much suspension load even when packed heavy. I only know it's there when stopping and starting actually.

I understand what you're saying about the preload settings being set first and foremost. No adjustments on the rear for preload though except for air pressure. Not much else that I'm aware of to help out the GL's in the rear...sound familiar? Mother Honda seems to make a regular thing out of designing no adjust suspension systems . Preload seems to be at "reasonable" sag(unmeasured), but hitting a dip or similar at speed lets me know that the rear compresses a lot when the mudflap scrapes pavement. I'm wondering if I can just add some resistance to that fast compression without compromising anything else by changing to the heavier oil.

Suspension gurus....am I thinking in the right direction here? I'm applying experience from the original front forks on a 900F, so bear with me... Will 20W oil give me increased damping in the rear shock of the Wing in the same manner that it did with the 900F's forks? Do I have to worry about "chatter" on uneven type surfaces due to slower rebound. The manual recommends ATF as the fluid to use. I'm assuming that ATF and standard Honda fork oil are 7W. I discovered through experimenting with the 900 that 20W was ideal to combat front dive under brakes without sacrificing crucial rebound speed over washboard surfaces. I'm thinking this is only different because it's a rear shock and not a front...correct? Am I screwing up? My reason for wishing to go up in damping are for heavy loading(I alone weigh over 300 ), frequent two up riding, occasional trailer towing, and I'm now running max air almost all the time. I don't want to take this big beast apart again, so I'm hoping to guess right the first time. Thanks for any input...

What has Ron Jeremy got to do with any of this?