blackhawkxx

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You put a lot of work into your Bird and you sell it? Well, at lest it's not a 14. Let us know how the new one runs.

I just bolted mine to the frame, nothing in back. At idle, mine showed about 13.8 as soon as I gave it some gas, it went to about 14.5 and no higher no matter how high I revved it.

If you get these, be sure to let us know how their parts are.

Just don't pull it off the center stand.

If you have a friend who rides, let him take it for a spin and see what he thinks. It might be all in your head, or not.

Come guys, just chuck your allen wrench into a air gun and zip, zip, zip nascar style, 30 seconds top.

filament type.

Since I did this about a week ago, it's pretty fresh in my mind. A R-1 is not a straight swap. 1) You need to elongate one bolt hole in the R/R. The Yam's holes are just a tiny bit closer. 2) You will need to buy two longer bolts as the new R/R is a little thicker. 3) The plugs are different. There is more than one way to deal with this. If you want to be able to go from the Honda part to the Yam or back (like carrying a spare), you will want to use plug a play set-up. Bartonmd was making and seller them for cheap on here so PM him. I put the Yam. R/R on and I can carry the Honda part as a spare. Changing back would take 2 min. BTW- I have a 97.

I had mini turn signals on the rear. When I put the integrated taillight on my 97, it blinked too fast. So I hooked up the inter. and the mini turn signals together and it worked right and with both the taillight and mini's blinking, you can see it a lot better.

I just did that last week (even though I had no troubles) and it was a breeze and seems to work great.

That Spintron video is just cool!

I must have one of the early Yosh slip-ons because they are aluminum and I don't think you can get them anymore. They should be lighter than S.S. but you do have to shine them up a couple times a year.

How often did you change the coolant (if you had the bike for some years) and if so, what brand did you use?

I don't know but sometimes you have to put them into the cart before the sale price comes up.

It does say but if I remember right 142 on the outside and 140 inside or it might be the other way around (a lot of help ha). If it is jetted up, I wouldn't change it until you rode it with the stock pipes. From the factory, the Bird had a dip in the power curve around 5,000 rpm and the jetting seemed to help it. Pete from Pa is the jetting expert around here, maybe he will chime in.

Why did it leak with three new washers the first time?

Don't you love it when a plan comes together?

Thanks math guy.

Please let us know what you find.

I was thinking if one side was let's say 150mm and the other 130, add them together 280 and divide by 2 to get 140. Most likely not that easy. Where are the math guys when you need them.

I know to measure the fork oil level, you should pull the forks. But, if you wanted to measure the level with the forks on (spring out), the tubes are at a angle, could you measure the low side of the oil and the high side and average them to get the correct measurement?

Fixed it for you.

Runner-http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=53401

I have one and set it to +4. No issues.