blackhawkxx

And too much is just enough.

Using a light so you can see better, look down at the sprocket and keep spinning the wheel, you can center the chain on the sprocket. There will be a slight gap on either side of the sprocket tooth.

That's what I did. I have a 97 and never any trouble but instead of taking the chance of burning up the wires or something, I just changed to a R-1, cheap, easy and quick.

I take it that you have to use the wood under the center stand because you installed the 6mm shim in the rear shock to make it a real corner burner?

Being how it says to use a whole can for a car, one half is what I use. BTW-just a few days ago my Wing started to run like crap all of a sudden. Went home, grabbed my 1/2 can of S.F., went to the gas station, filled the tank and added the S.F. Within ten minutes of running, the Wing was running fine.

I have used both the old red cap and the gold cap in 15W-50.

I think you might be talking about enlarging the hole the vacuum pulls through to move the slide. I think the early models had smaller holes than later. I drilled my 97 per instructions when installing the K&N jet kit. My carbs run perfect.

The last Cycle World tested them both. It said that the 14 was more comfortable on the street. It said the Busa handled better (like a big Gixxer) and had 10 more hp.

:icon_shocked:

And it is coming from Hungary!

My son was just telling me that he saw a program on TV where someone is making a kit to put twin turbos on a corvette but they are back by the rear axle.

+1 and you never hear us whining "why is my FI light on?" or "why is there gas in my oil?"

Why not just follow the Honda manual and set it while on the side stand?

$129 shipping.

You put a lot of work into your Bird and you sell it? Well, at lest it's not a 14. Let us know how the new one runs.

I just bolted mine to the frame, nothing in back. At idle, mine showed about 13.8 as soon as I gave it some gas, it went to about 14.5 and no higher no matter how high I revved it.

If you get these, be sure to let us know how their parts are.

Just don't pull it off the center stand.

If you have a friend who rides, let him take it for a spin and see what he thinks. It might be all in your head, or not.

Come guys, just chuck your allen wrench into a air gun and zip, zip, zip nascar style, 30 seconds top.

filament type.

Since I did this about a week ago, it's pretty fresh in my mind. A R-1 is not a straight swap. 1) You need to elongate one bolt hole in the R/R. The Yam's holes are just a tiny bit closer. 2) You will need to buy two longer bolts as the new R/R is a little thicker. 3) The plugs are different. There is more than one way to deal with this. If you want to be able to go from the Honda part to the Yam or back (like carrying a spare), you will want to use plug a play set-up. Bartonmd was making and seller them for cheap on here so PM him. I put the Yam. R/R on and I can carry the Honda part as a spare. Changing back would take 2 min. BTW- I have a 97.

I had mini turn signals on the rear. When I put the integrated taillight on my 97, it blinked too fast. So I hooked up the inter. and the mini turn signals together and it worked right and with both the taillight and mini's blinking, you can see it a lot better.

I just did that last week (even though I had no troubles) and it was a breeze and seems to work great.

That Spintron video is just cool!