blackhawkxx

Don't they have a million mile warranty?

If I had Dave's money, I would buy it in a heartbeat.

Good deal.

My son's 1000RR has a 4-6 extension and dropped, geared, otherwise stock and will run 9.60. He still rides it on the street without to much trouble.

Most are for show. A 6 inch does help at the strip, not so great on the street.

Beside my three bikes, I have stored cars for over 30 years that some don't get started for months on end. I do use Sta-Bil but have found that if I also add SeaFoam (not a lot) the gas in the carbs stay better after long term storage.

Did you notice that your helmet fit looser after you lost weight? I lost 60 lbs this year and I think I need to drop down one size.

I replied on this earlier but for some reason it isn't here as I looked later. Anyway, here is a good link to the subject: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...amp;hl=fork+oil

Yea, me too.

Nikon N-70 body with Nikon 35-80 zoom lens also Nikon 80-200 zoom lens, neck strap, carry bag, filters, new batteries and the manual. Like new condition. Over $800 new, sell for $210 shipped in lower 48. If any one is interested, I can put up some photos.

Come on now, you don't have to rub it in.

I know some of us was wondering what the prices are to get our bikes tuned on the dyno. Here are the rates that Schnitz's are charging. http://ryanschnitz.com/Dyno/DynoRates.htm Dyno Rates Diagnostic/Power Run - $40 Drag Map (100% Throttle Only) - $100 Full Custom Map (Power Commander) - $250 Full Custom Map (Turbo 9 psi+) - $350+ Power Commander Hub Configuration - $80 Engine Break In (1 hour minimum) - $75 per hour Dyno Rental Rate (2 hour minimum) - $60 per hour MISC. Leaded Fuel Fee - $25 Using exhaust bung instead of air/fuel pump and filter to read air/fuel ratio. - $25 *All Prices subject to change at anytime. 233 N 2nd Street - Decatur, IN 46733 - (260)724-0438

It mounts in the same place but you have to make one of the holes just a little bigger (holes in the R-1 are slightly closer together) and use longer bolts. Do a search on here and you will find all the info.

And too much is just enough.

Using a light so you can see better, look down at the sprocket and keep spinning the wheel, you can center the chain on the sprocket. There will be a slight gap on either side of the sprocket tooth.

That's what I did. I have a 97 and never any trouble but instead of taking the chance of burning up the wires or something, I just changed to a R-1, cheap, easy and quick.

I take it that you have to use the wood under the center stand because you installed the 6mm shim in the rear shock to make it a real corner burner?

Being how it says to use a whole can for a car, one half is what I use. BTW-just a few days ago my Wing started to run like crap all of a sudden. Went home, grabbed my 1/2 can of S.F., went to the gas station, filled the tank and added the S.F. Within ten minutes of running, the Wing was running fine.

I have used both the old red cap and the gold cap in 15W-50.

I think you might be talking about enlarging the hole the vacuum pulls through to move the slide. I think the early models had smaller holes than later. I drilled my 97 per instructions when installing the K&N jet kit. My carbs run perfect.

The last Cycle World tested them both. It said that the 14 was more comfortable on the street. It said the Busa handled better (like a big Gixxer) and had 10 more hp.

:icon_shocked:

And it is coming from Hungary!

My son was just telling me that he saw a program on TV where someone is making a kit to put twin turbos on a corvette but they are back by the rear axle.

+1 and you never hear us whining "why is my FI light on?" or "why is there gas in my oil?"