blackhawkxx

Not thinking of lowering the Bird for the track by cutting the spring are you?

That has to be the dirtiest lower shock mount that I have ever seen.

Ain't they all (for awhile). J/K.

Sorry about the laugh but that's just funny.

They are a lilttle hard to get off. Rock them. There was one guy a while back that never did get them off. He ended up working on the carbs on the bike. Not me.

I'm not sure about the Bird but my Goldwing does. Start from the battery end of the positive cable and work your way to the motor. Might be near where the + cable connects.

I read it now, OK? I am no youngster and never had a oil related engine problem on any vehicle in my life. If it ain't broke.... PS-I did buy a chevy truck once (never again) and when I was changing the vavle cover gaskets, there must have been a full half inch of sludge in there. I guess the previous owner must have read your thread.

He would know.

Right, anyone that runs the bike at the strip, slipping the clutch at 4-5,000 rpm's, just think of the clutch material that must be in the oil. One thing for sure, you can't hurt your motor by changing the oil too much.

When you turn the key on, the headlight comes on. When you hit the starter button, the headlight goes out and then back on therefor cycling the light twice.

For some reason, I like that word.

I always read this in the magazines but it doesn't seem to be the opinion here. They said that the lube one puts on is just so the chain don't rust. I don't think that the magazine guys ride their own bikes so they don't worry about it.

A lot of people us Shinko tires for drag racing.

There are v-rods that run at my track. They do leave hard because (1- they do have good torque (2- they are so long and heavy that the front end just don't come up plus they are just easier to launch. After 100 feet or so, you should be able to go right by. When I put my 16 on, it felt like I was riding around in 5th gear while in 6th.

Thanks for the laugh. :icon_clap:

I don't think that adjusting the screws out would help with the sputtering. Do the carbs run great after 3,500? Are you at a high elevation? A carb sync might be a good place to start. Something must be off because (no kidding) mine is a smooth as silk.

Does it track straighter?

You must have messed up and got the "liberal, left wing kit" because my Dynojet set-up runs smooth as silk.

No play makes Tom a dull boy.

Has anyone taken them apart to see just what is inside?

I would start out at about 25 lbs rear and if you are spinning, work down from there.

It was the Dale Walker Holeshot 3 that I was talking about. http://www.holeshot.com/shifters/ps3.html It looks like a good idea but I would like to know how well it works.

As I recall, it uses a motor with a cable to pull up the shifter, right? Does it work well?

:icon_think: F.I. XX do but does the 97-98 also have the sensor? I would think so.

What kind of "cluchless shifter" do you have?