AlphaBird

[/quote/208 Gp had same high speed instability problems ,at least on my R1 at 150+ (Road America,Grattan) otherwise very forgiving,used to run sc1/sc2 combo,rear was pretty much toast after one day. H2 needs long warm up,like two laps but other then that I like the feedback and the way the rear slides/drifts.It seems to last longer too. My reasoning for going to Michelins is as follows:every GP team uses Michelins (O.K. there are some exceptions but those teams don`t count) and you hear all those guys who learnt to ride on Dunlops having problems with French tires after the switch,so when finally Honda/ Yamaha/Ducati calls me I will be ready :grin: I`ve have not tried 208 Gp A but I`m pretty much stockpiled for the season,maybe next year. BTW H2 turns in much better on the brakes. Also, perhaps "lightning years better" was a slight overkill :oops: Another reason----http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/s...&threadid=28291----why I changed from the Metzlers--they would "cold tear" at ThunderHill after 1/2 day---but with all due respect, a buddy of mine runs s2/m2 on an F4i---and kicks ass--he was the guy running 19th in the Infineon AMA supersport race race before he got taken out in T1 by the kawasaki-weenie Having said that, the D208GP-A is definitely the tire of choice in the AMA, for me they just plain last alot longer--ie two whole days from a rear---but of course, I have the less powerful 929 :roll: Seems like the "high speed Instability issues" are more of a set-up issue-I had to change things around a tad--chnaging from the Rennsports which are incredibly stable. But 150 down the straight at T-Hill-No issues--however, the downhill part of the Laguna straight did incite a little wobble--but thats only at about 135 so its kind of fun. You might want to try the S2/M2 combo as the M2 is actually harder than the H2

It really depends how you ride. One thing that might motivate you is put a zip-tie aorund the fork tube and then go slam on the brakes. Then see how close to bottoming the forks are---the last 1/2-1/4 of travel is accomodated by the internal bumpstops---dampening is less than ideal here. Picture yourself hitting a down hill pot hole at full lean---it wont be pretty. Of coure alot of this depends on how much you weigh. Bla, Bla, bla

Like Oil-comparing race tires is a tad controversial--but a comment like "H2`s,awesome tire,lightning years better then 208GP and little better then Supercorsa" is a tad far-fetched---I havent used the H2s and I never will, they have a pretty nasty reputation out here of "letting" go at odd times--I have too many friends that went from Dunlop D208GPs to H2s and crashed due to some weirdness, most were pretty accomplished racers.The S2/M2 is supposed to be better combo. I used to use the Rennsports(same as the Persmellis) RS1/2. But the rear would be dust in a single day, so I upgraded to the D208GP-As, they work very well and the rear tends to last about 2X longer than the Rennsports

Thats the one----is it a speedpack?????How much????Any issues???Looks very sweet

I saw one that was slightly different that strapped to the back, looked like an over grown TLR tail piece---it had a CF shell like yours but that accordian stuff on the bottom to make it tall as--it actually looked pretty trick on the R1--but might ne tough on your tail section

I had this problem on my 02 as well---the front tire was waaaay more worn on one side than the other---a new tire remedied the whole deal

There was enough freeplay--No charging required, If I remember correctly, I think it was happier exciting out that side(left) anyway--I will have to look tonight/get back to you. but either way, it wasnt a big deal at all--On my 929 I used the left side for the hydrualic mount---no issues either---those instructions didnt change since '98---probably why the Ohlins are such a deal

Pecisely where I mounted mine--not enough room on the right

I just velcroed mine to the side of the fairing----Front/rear detection is optimal--unfortunately--as the velcro ages--the detector has been know to "take flight" usually above 100mph---Hugo can vouch for this

Not postive, but I am pretty sure the rotors are the wrong size---dont know if they are interchangable or NOT, I would guess NOT Just by rough feel--I compared my 929 fornt wheel with the XX---they seemed damn close to the same weight

The Pit Bull is the schnitz---$150 sounds about right

here you go-----http://www.pit-bull.com/Front%20and%20Fork...ing%20Chart.htm Just rememeber---you need to remove the brake line bracket and horn---prior to shoving the pin in there---standard pin and #1 adapter---929/954 is the number 5 pin as you said

---Not sure why you are confused??? That is absolutely correct---I used a 300Ohm resitor on the 929, and a plug on the XX, but there is only a single plug on the XX-- I will give you $20 (towards your map) if you get an 18HP INCREASE with the pipe AND a custom map(same dyno)---sounds to me like someone is seriously "yankin your chain" (It when from 125 to 143 at the wheel, on the 18HP w/o a PC)--my stock bike out 140HP on Dans Dynojet(at the rear wheel--plot was posted on the old sight)----125HP from a XX sounds incredibly low---even if you do have a pair of socks stuck in the RAM inlets -Although Akra is "conservative" in their claims--7HP versus 18HP is a pretty big delta---- why you assume because you have two "@ the rear wheel" dyno runs, the dynos are the same is beyond me... Now if you can find two plots from the same dyno plotted against each other..that might be interesting. BTW---even on the same dyno, same conditions you will see a 1-2 HP variation from run to run

This is INCORRECT(regardless of what Dynojet says)---you only need one--- a 300Ohmm resistor across the two white O2 wires will do the same thing--Its kind of a bitch to undo the connector--but with a little advanced yoga technique you'll get there--Trust me, unlike Mirth--Ive done it Also the Akra will come with a a bung that is NOT punched out--if you had your heart set on keeping your 02 sensor--you can drill/tap it out---all the 02 sensor does on the XX is lean out the mixture at constant partial throttle--but its your call Again--this is incredibly optimistic (polite for complete BS, especially w/o a PC3/custom map)---most likely two different dynos, My bike put out 140/80 bone stock--I would be amazed if it put out close to 160--with the pipe--look for closer to a 10HP delta with a good map---and you will lose a little bottom end under 3K---see Akra graph http://www.akrapovic-ai.si/main/main.htm Akra has some graphs on there website for a 98 XX I believe--I would only look at the increase though as most dynos vary in absolute, looks like about 7HP--but carries out the HP better at high end--FI will help a tad, but not 2-3X. Finally there are two things to watch installing the pipe 1) keep it off your lower fairing, by first trying to alighn it away from the plastic, or put a washer under the lower, front bottom bolt--if it is touching the fairing, it WILL melt it 2) shim your rear at least 6mm or the pipe will drag by the collector w/6mm shim, this goes away--it would most likely go away with beefier front/rear springs as well

Hugo---why dont you go ask Howard--what Lindemann did to his valving ---and share that with all of us, especially Mirth---I think he might be a tad surprised :roll:

Doesnt have that much to do with valving, mostly too soft-springs---my 929 had similar issues--stock valves were re-worked, new springs, etc---it can now handle just about anything I can throw at it---

Precisely what I did---anyone want a brand new set of 205s ???

With all the talk about fork re-springing/valving--I thought I would do a little experiment to quantify how "bad" they reallt are--I put a zip tie around the fork and slammed on the brakes at about 10mph--interesting--the things are bouncing off the bump stops from this little manuever, I weigh about 220lbs. I have noticed the XX front end "skipping around a little on hard cornering" --now I know why-its bouncing off the bump stops--Yikes---revalving/springing the forks has now gone to priority 1. The only road crash(vs 4 track crashes in the last 18 mos) I have had for a while was on my 929, prior to fork/spring work---when I bottomed out, bent rim in a pothole in the apex of a corner---No need to repeat this. Just thought others might want to check it out

Mirth--do you know if the ratio between axle/shock is really 3X--I always heard 2X ?? Reagrdless--the kickstand aint gonna work worth a rats ass

FYI---there is NO ride height adj on the Ohlins--apparently they didnt think that we sport-tourers would need it--Yep--I was surprised too :-o Randy I guess I kind of agree---BUT---once you do the forks you cant--change the pre-load, thus the sag---the only thing you can do is adjust the rear ride height---for me--the new springs should raise the bike 15mm in the front from where it is now--the rear is already set at 25mm sag(where I like it)--so to maintain the geometry--either the front goes down(not good for me as i like clearance) or the rear goes up---possibly ALOT like 15mm---- another 7.5mm of shim should do it as the rr height linkage ratio is typically 2:1--just not sure if there is that much room on the shock mount bolt---time will tell

5,000 track miles???? :shock: 32 days X 165mi/day = 5,000mi---yep :roll: ---this year will be much less-- need to save $$$ for 2004 racing budget---unless of course-I get "sucked in" this year :roll:

Not sure but I believe the rotors are bigger on the 929---the caliper mounts are definitely different--Ive seen 929 wheels w/ rotors for $200

929 Forks/triples/Calipers for $300---Damn all you need is a front wheel---cheaper than a de-linking kit Dont know the guy---but seems like a deal to me http://www.fireblades.org/forums/messagevi...&threadid=12134

All this talk about forks/shocks has got me curious. Seems that with every improvement--usually resulting in a decrease in sag--frame geometry is going to change. For example--my forks are stock and have 45mm of sag--I have replaced the rear shock and have 25mm of sag---I have shimmed the rear up 6mm, and I love the way the bike handles. Now if I replace the fork springs to 1.0-1.5kgs, I will reduce my front sag by say 15mm---most likely reducing my beloved quick turn in---to get it back I would need to re-shim approximately 15mm to get the geometry back-- Does anyone have any experience with this--I think BDAZZ---jacked his rear over an inch, via a dogbone after he did the forks/Penske???

Im running a ERV-2 520 chain on the 929---about 5K track miles(hard miles)---damn thing hasnt stretched one tiny little bit-----pretty impressive--I am NOT sure what chain came stock on the XX---but it stretches like a rubberband compared to the ERV-2