Justin

Probably do fine, but first rule of thumb is to not mix & match. & if you do, make sure the tire compound is of similair properties As long as the front is stickier than the rear it's ok, I always run a sportier tire on the front. I do however try to keep the manufacturers the same. My usual combo is M3 front, Z7 rear ... IMO the best riding combo I have found, really good for the twisties.

that's pretty interesting, thanks for clearing that up

I say just look at the sprocket... If the teeth still come to nice points leave it.... if the teeth are rounded, replace it. The rear sprocket wears a lot slower than the front, so don't assume cause the rear is fine the front is ok too. But like rockmeup said, with 25k it's prolly due for replacement. My last chain developed a nasty kink early on, but the sprocket was fine, so I just did the chain.

I'm with you, unless they did a titanium frame, black plastics in canada that year *shrugs*

If you don't care about fire rating than go with 7/16 OSB, the stuff is dirt cheap and really easy to hang. If you want to meet code, then 1/2'' drywall is the right way to do it. Spend a few bucks on insulation and you won't be sad when winter comes. Throw a kerosene heater in there and the insulation will keep it nice and toasty.

Just curious, I touch my stock pegs a lot now, will lowering them make them more likely to catch on something? I've been thinking about lowering my pegs for some time, as on long rides it would really help my knees and hips, but if you ride aggressive, would it be a safety hazard? Also, any left?

Years ago I removed my center-stand as it would catch the ground when really riding the twisties hard. I have seen side-stands that attach to the back of the right swing arm, but for the life of me cannot find them. Basically you set your side stand, lift the back end, and flip the other side-stand down. I have also seen some that attach to the swing arm spool, so it's not permanent. This would be so much easier for road side chain service than rolling the bike around. Anyone have links to manufacturers?

Thanks guys for all the input... I'll send out some pictures tonight and see if I can get an estimate.

Well thanks, I may take you up on that offer ... when you say evilxx has a welder, do you mean a plastic welder?

Please refer to http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=48957 As long as it's in one piece it'll work, preferably black lol. Probably not gonna find one.. but worth a shot.

Mine is mounted in the map pocket of my tank bag. I use earphones. This works really well for me and the map pocket keeps it dry.

I had a tree branch fall on the side of my bike, and it broke the fairing where the big bolt holds it on top. I don't really care about it cosmetically, but I need to fix it so my fairing can be attached. I don't have pic yet, but basically it broke a 5-6 inch ring of plastic off around the bolt. Would jb-weld work to reattach that piece to the fairing and be strong enough to hold? I have used jb weld a lot in the past, but thought i'd check with the experts here. Other option... plastic welding, anyone know of any places in the Denver area that does it? Or a place I could send it out to?

I hated the original Roads on the XX...but I might give the new ones a shot when they come out. I'd love to get more mileage from a tire, but I am not willing to give up performance for it.

Oh.... I shouldn't..... but here goes.... New tires are NOT slick. Do you think manufactures would sell "slick" tires to society as litigious as it is? Racers put brand new tires on their bikes and run WOT all the time with no issue. Now... there can be grease and grime from the shop on new tires, but the real reason a break in period is recommended is because new tires can behave differently than what a ride is used to... so they recommend you get used to the tire before going WOT. From Dunlap's website.. Q: How much run-in should I give a new tire? A: When new tires are fitted, they should not be subjected to maximum power or hard cornering until a reasonable run-in distance of approximately 100 miles has been achieved. This is necessary for a number of reasons. Replacements for worn tires with different patterns and construction will not react the same. Also, a new tire is stiffer than an old tire. The new tire has a rounder tread profile, different contact patch and "lean-over edge" than the worn profile of an old tire. The new tire will also not react the same in combination with its remaining tire. Carrying out the required run-in will allow you to become accustomed to the "feel" of the new tires and tire combinations, so you are better able to achieve optimum road grip for use in high speed, high acceleration and handling situations. From Bridgestone... Break-in Period In order for your new tire(s) to provide optimum performance, tires should be ridden very cautiously for the first 100 miles in order for the tread surface to be “Scuffed-In” and work properly. Directly after new tires are mounted, sudden acceleration, maximum braking and hard cornering must be avoided. This will allow the rider to adjust to the “Feel” and handling characteristics of the new tire and for the new tire to be “Scuffed-In” correctly in order to achieve optimum grip level. So, yes, it is advised that you get to know your tires a bit before riding them hard, but they are not slick. I have ridden many new pairs of tires to the very edges right after mounting them and have never had an issue, ymmv.

Yeah, Pilot Powers are pretty decent tires.... although I prefer Metzeler M3's. Pilot Roads on the other hand I didn't like so much... it seemed they were shaped like "U", they didn't roll through turns at all, and quite a bit more slippery than sport tires.

I think you are correct... platinum and iridium spark plugs they recommend not to gap because you can rub off the coating of either metal

Yeap... my front bearings went at @ 35k ...at 62k now, so getting close to that time again.

The rumors about Z6's are bs, myself and anyone I ever knew who ran the z6 rear, bird or otherwise, loved it. P.S. all tires are harder and more slippery in the cold.

Don't mean to piss on your parade, but was it a dynojet or factory dyno? Mine did 146 on a dynojet, but I think it would be a bit less on a factory model.

What high current? should be no real amount of current in the switch.. If it's done right I can't see a issue at all Your constant movement of the connection(pressing the button) may brake the solder depending where it needed to be soldered.. you can use glue to help stop this... just don't get it on moving parts... All I know is they don't last when they are re-soldered, I assumed it's due to the current, but could be the movement.

Just order a new unit... I soldered mine twice after it broke... the solder just doesn't want to hold on the high current connection..

The pressure depends on how I plan to ride it.. For touring I run 40-42 psi rear and 37 front, for sporting I lower the rear to about 38. Tire life as usual depends on your riding, I haven't been doing a lot of knee dragging and throttle twisting lately, so I am going to get at least 4k out of my rear, probably 6-7k out of the front... If I had been riding it harder I would imagine 2.5k on the rear and 4-5k on the front.

I am running M3's on the Bird now and they are great tires. I used to run a Z6 front and M1 rear but got 2 M3's when my supplier was out of Z6's. Surprisingly the M3 gets almost as good wear as the Z6 and Much better than the M1. I'm willing to trade a few miles for having the handling of a pure sport tire. So thumbs up from me on the M3

You didn't hurt it. Just wind it back up and hold it in place while you install it. It's awkward to do but it still works like new. I did this once just to see what would happen if I pulled the pin. Then again I'm all for John getting more orders Your probably right, but I'd rather have he piece of mind knowing it's not going to fail on trips etc... and like you said, I don't mind sending my money John's way.. rather send it to him than give it to the stealership

Makes sense John... I'm going to order a new one from you when you get the next batch though as I am just not going to trust the one I have after I rewind it myself... I'll paypal you more $$'s, just send me one when they come in