HERBXX

I watched the video after i put the kit in. I found the video confusing. My one bit of advice is measure every shim, dont make any assumptions, and two do it with the forks on. You just have to get the cartridges out. You don't have to remove the sliders from the tubes, You dont have to mess with the seals unless you want to. All you need is the copper washer that holds in the oil in the fork leg bottom.

IF anybody has the time i would like to know how many threads are visable under the collar that compresses the rear spring on your shock. I was so excited to get the ring nuts loose i forgot to take note of the factory setting before turning them an unknow amount . I think i moved them about 1.5 or 2 turns but im not sure. BTW i got it loose on the bike with a puch, alternating taping the top and bottom, nut in different direction till the top (jam nut) came loose. Thanks Herb

i had one , returned it.. too much of a pain , it was more straight forward to install gold valves, then install the stupid thing .

You can mig it as wll if you have the right wire and gas.

After i did my forks with the ractech stuff they squeaked for about 100 km or so. I figured it might have been the spring rubbing on the spacer or something else getting broken in. I was also wondering if it something to do with poliching the damping rods. If they are gurgling mabe they didn't take enough time to bleed the cartridges . I would give it a bit of time and see if it stops.. my 2 cents

I think the springs are 37 mm in diameter, i know the fork tube is 43 od. So any tube around 37 mm should work. The ID is not that critical. I have used iron pipe , some use pvc tubing, my rt springs came with aluminum tubing. If you like i can meaure the stock spacers tonight as they are at home on the shelf, but im pretty sure 37 would do the job.

All i know is that I didn't get brake fluid on it, what the monkeys that put it together at the dealer did i have no idea ........... I was kind or scared to let them change the wheel, but i ;ve had it on and off 2 or 3 times since so they must have done okay.

It happenned to me . !! I got a new front wheel from the dealer. Is yours front or back ??????

Strapping the back end down to the floor, or a work stand with tie downs works well for me . I use a tiedown through the back wheel.

I found that a bit a first, but with me , once i adjusted the play the throttle cables and got used it , it seems fine. Getting the cables set up without much play made a big difference.

No not yet !! I agree they should have been replaced !! . The local dealer didn't have any. I ordered four last thurday, I couldn't believe they didn't have them in stock and I was already set up to do the job last friday so I did it anyway. If your carefull you can take those bolts out and the oil stays in so im not too worried about replacing them when i get the seals. If they don't come in soon and the retorqing doesn' t help , I have to get somebody to measure one and i'll buy a box of them from an industrial supply company. I suspect that the 8mm id , 11.5 od by 1.5 mm think would do the job . If anybody has one laying around it would be great if they could measure it for me Thanks Herb

I , with my brothers help installed the gold valve and rebound valves and springs It was a bit finickity (sp) but not too bad. Hints 1) measure EVERY SHIME 4 times!! , unless you like doing things twice (guess how i know) 2) wrapping a tie wrap around the teflon seal on the rebound valve makes it a snap to get it back in the cartridge. (the wrap pops off as it slides in) 3) don't do the job on good friday, cause its a pain when you find you need a new tool (like a long allen key (hex) key that you can some how put on you torque wrench) I used 1kg springs with 130 mm spacer for 24 mm of preload, reabound stack r20 , compression stack c38. It rides great and i'm please with the results . The only problem is the bolt in the bottom bolt in the forkleg is weeping a bit. (less then a drop in a 45 minute ride). I went easy tighting it as i couldn't get my socket allen key on it , and there fore couldn't use the torque wrench. I will fix that tonight after i get an 1/4 to 3/8 adapter. BTW . We didn't have to take the forks off the bike, just the front fender and wheel. :!:

cool !!! I have clear 100w highbeam now and i like it!!, but im sure HID would be better !!

When using a HID for highbeam is there a delay for the beam to come back on after you turn it off then on , Like when a car is coming toward you ??? or is this not a problem ?????