Dion

Gixxer 750 and 1k are 42's also http://www.mcnews.com.au/NewBikeCatalogue/...xr1000page2.htm

Do a search on XX4me and MiDNitXX They've been there done that. Hiding it all is going to be difficult.

I had EXACTLY that same experience on some Pilot Sports in '04. Had my buddy's GF on behind me, following him at dusk down old Hwy. 40. He'd gotten a little bit ahead and at the last moment, I saw a right hander completely covered in gravel in my lane. Whole bike went sideways for some distance, and all I did was hang on and do nothing abrupt. When those Sports hit the roadway surface again, not even a wobble -- hooked up smoothly and predictably, almost like they didn't know they'd just gone a few feet sideways. When we got to buddy's GF's house, she was VERY impressed at my riding skill. LOL -- "All I did was hang on -- that was the bike and the tires!" I'm not sure the Pilot Powers are dual compound, though. I'm pretty sure that's the Pilot Power Race or Sport Race (or whatever they call it). Either way, GREAT tires, IMO. I thinkyou're right, the race are the dual compound

Hey trav, Like they said, It sounds like you forgot to connect something or reversed something. Make sure you hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key on. Can you be a little more descriptive on "bang,bang,bang......."? Hold off on dumping fuel in the stacks

Honestly, I don't think the Bird is made for getting a knee down. The shape and size of the bike means you need to be really off the bike and right on the ragged edge. I've done it once but think it was mainly because the shape of the road came up to meet my knee.

I would shime the rear first. This will quicken your steering and give you time to get use to the change. I would not go 15mm right off the bat up front. this would be a radical change and will lower your clearance remember. Mine is shimed 6mm rear and forks are dropped 1cm. But I also upgraded the springs before dropping the front. It does make the kids on the 600's wonder how such a big bike can turn like that but,.... I can also feel that these changes are pushing up to the edge of stability for me on the bike. "Remember Ellie small moves"

The Michelin Pilot Powers are a sport tire that gets up to tempreature quickly. If I'm not mistaken, they will also work pretty well for a track day. Not sure I can tell much difference in handling or wear between the Pilot Sport and Pilot Power. On the rear, mine are bald at 4000 miles, with the fronts lasting through two rears. Both tires will be solid as a rock all the way down to footpeg scraping, chicken strip removing angles. I don't get mine over far enough to scrape the fairing, but if I had to push it lower than I usually go, these tires would give me the confidence that a low side wouldn't be the tires' fault. GREAT tires for riding twisties, but to ride cross country or a lot of supserslab, they wear a bit too fast to be practical . . . unless you enjoy tire changing. I love em! they're dual compound, harder in the middle. I put a fresh set on the day before leaving for SEXXT and set out in the rain un scrubbed and within 25 miles I was riding the same as I would on dry roads. At SEXXT I was following Vern into a right hander and didn't see the inch sized gravel in time. As I was preparing for the crash both wheels stepped out a foot, hit pavment and I just kept going. Don't know how many miles I actually got out of it But it was bald when I changed it at NEXXT and still held like new. The trick is to up the pressure when you're commuting/slabbing it and drop it for the twisties. I'll let you know how they work on the track. They saved my life twice last year so I could care less about mileage.

Put it up on the centerstand and have the wife sit on the back. that should get it up enough to do a quick check. Pulsation is not normal but the GRRRRR sound or buzzing sound(like bees)is normal.

Hey...no other action here. When you see little xx's running around, start worrying about me. If it's the only way to get a new XX I say go for it!

Just trying to help :cry: Mine would quit and start right back up until the stator went completely.

When it dies on the road do your gauges still work while you're coasting? If not You might want to grab the manual andf run through the reg/stator checks.

I stand by my earlier statement. Put your money into upgrading your brakes and suspension

Jeff did it on his ST

Hey Sean, I'm all for "Catch and release" but if you don't play'em for a little while what's the fun? Sandman, Like Joe said, I seem to remember seeing a link here where someone compared the stock, K&N and another aftermarket filter with the end result being that unless you are really building a motor and trying to squeeze out every last 1/4 horsepower the only advantage of a K&N is that you get a nifty little sticker with it. You're better off spending your money on upgrading the brakes and suspension. Disclaimer: I'm not a doctor but I play one with DBLXX. Any opinions expressed here are stictly my own and should be treated with the appropriate grain of salt and/or as outright bullshit.

I think I've just been called out :evil: Save those straps for the hotel John :submissive:

Like K9 said, big screw driver so it doesn't slip and lots of leverage.

Put on a tire based on the ride Josh, Don't worry about the strip. Travis is the only one taking it seriously.

Is it me or does this just look wrong......

Chain lube?

So you're saying "Don't ask how you know" :wink:

Remove the seat Undo the tank bolts prop up the tank open the airbox R/R filter Reverse

I'm guessing better cold start flow and slicker shifting. I tried the amsoil at the change before last and wasn't impressed with my shifting. It has 5-40M1 in it (Pete's suggestion) The thing just snicks so quickly through the gears now.

:stupidsign: +2 Then I use WD40 to clean all the chain gunk from the rim/rear end. :wink: +3

Make sure the pads are in correctly and not cocked in the caliper.

I like em