ccriderXX

I have been running Genmar risers. I just got some Heli Bars and have a question. Has anyone mounted Heli Bars on top of Genmar risers? I have searched and read many posts. I have seen that some have raised their Heli Bars a half inch. The Genmar risers are about .75". I have also read that some have put VFR bars on top of the Genmars. When I place my Heli's next to the Genmar lifted stock bars, it looks like my only advantage is that the Heli's move the bars back and out a slight amount. The Genmars come with a short column of aluminum the same diameter as the fork, to put on top of the fork cap. The stock bars have the bolt clamping near the top of the fork. What I am worried about if I try raising the Heli's this much is, that only the bottom clamp will be doing all the work. The top clamp would just clamp the Genmar aluminum piece which is basically floating above the fork cap. I am sure the bottom clamp is enough to keep the bar attached, but it isn't how they were designed to work. Also I know I may be getting close to needing longer lines doing this.

Will the front wheel stay up if you engage the cruise control mid wheelie?

I am using a Accessory Plug and Outlet I got from Gerbing. I have heard it called a Powerlet. I think it is the same as the BMW plug. It has "Hella" molded into the plastic. I have also heard you can get something like this at from John Deere. I have my outlet connected to my heat-troller. I really like it. I was originally using the coax adapter that came with my electric liner, but that required two hands. The accessory plug is easy to connect with one hand while riding, even when you can't see it in the dark. (don't ask how I know that) I placed the outlet at a right angle to my bike, so it unplugs easily as I walk away from the bike (doh!). I put the outlet on the left side of bike in the abs (non painted) panel, just below the Honda wing on gas tank. I mounted my heat-troller in the same panel, but just below the handlebar. I can reach the outlet easy when I am riding and can adust the heat-troller without looking. The wire to vest runs down out of my jacket, then fwd along the break between the gas tank and frame. Since this picture I have changed to a right angle connector. It routes the wire parallel to the tank and frame, and still pulls out from outlet easy. matey, I thought your picture was of under my seat. My accesory wiring is very similar. Jeff

Oh oh the secret is out... I was also reluctant to drill out the pin diameter on the bike. I could have gone to my brother in law who is a machinist, but instead checked out Home Depot. I took my calipers down there and measured stuff looking for a suitable bushing. I ended up using a brass pipe nipple. Item number 048643072084 on the receipt. I used a 5/16" drill to drill out the brass bushing then cut to length. For me this mod really helped. It is amazing how much more comfortable I am on the bike. I have the Corbin G&L seat. With stock pegs my legs felt cramped. Now, I can go 680 mile days!! Jeff

Since we are talking about Avons.... I just installed a 46 on the rear, I really like it instead of the MZ4 I had on there. But I feel a weird side to side motion when pulling away from a stop sign, or at very low speeds. It is like I can feel that tread pattern. Over 5 mph all I feel is a great tire. It sticks good. Has anyone else noticed this feeling at slow speeds? I did check and I don't have any side to side play in the rear bearings. My front MZ4 is almost gone though.

I searched for "buell pegs" and got this: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forum/viewtopic.p...ight=buell+pegs Actually I bought some a couple weeks ago. They look to lower the pegs about an inch. I will post some pictures soon. I haven't installed them yet. The buell pegs do need to have .05" ground off of the width, and need a bushing added around the stock CBR pin. The holes on the buell pegs are larger than the CBR pin.

Speaking of butt connectors, Warchild tried some "Posi-Lock" connectors when he installed a LED light to his FJR. I am going to start using them. http://www.fjrtech.com/getdbitem.cfm?item=42 http://www.posi-products.com/posilock.html I usually solder connections, but that is time consuming.

I have had an Ohlins on my ZX11 for over 20,000 miles and the preload adjuster still works fine. The only way I can see it would fail is if you lost fluid/have a bad seal. My preload adjuster is remote from the shock.