ccriderXX

I went back to the stock dampened Honda front sprocket because of the howling too. Then I realized I have fairly loud Two-Brothers pipes and always wear earplugs.

Well it should wheelie easily. Heck my friend and I used to wheelie side by side, him on his Yamaha RD350, me on my Honda CB360T. The H1 had way more power. Nice bike Joe, good luck with the sale.

I use the wrenches in the toolbox to adjust my chain while on trips. So the answer would be yes.

Boy that really sucks. I saw the ending of a Mythbusters episode last night. They showed how a piece of tire tread (retread, alligator?) could be kicked out the back of a wheel going 50 mph. It went through a car window and de-capitated a manikin.

Corbin Gunfighter and Lady Seat with Backrest for Blackbird. $325 + shipping SOLD SOLD SOLD It was on my ’99 XX. It is covered in the Carbon Fiber pattern leather. It is in very good condition. I have used Lexol to condition and protect the leather. It does have two ½ inch scratches shown in a close-up picture. The scratches do not go through the cover and are not noticeable unless you look close-up. Also, the back pad has some marks on the cover from compressing it with a T-Bag elastic mount. Retail price at Corbin is $439 for the seat and $229 for the backrest. Paypal is my preferred method of payment. The seat is ready to ship in a 32”L x 12.4”W x 18.5”D box filled with packing peanuts. The box weighs 18lbs. My zip code is 98270. More info about Corbin seats: Corbin Blackbird Website

Suggestion: Check out this link: http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=52883 The carriers are very wimpy/easy to knock out of alignment. I was able to repair mine.

Agreed, that windshield could put an eye out...

I can't tell if these are round or oval, but I was able to buy a new sleeve/skin for one of my TI oval TBRs. It was easy to drill out the stainless pop-rivets. Trying to stuff all the packing material was a little difficult but doable.

These are a very high quality product and work awesome. Because you retain the rubber on top of the stock peg, footpegs are comfortable all day long! Thanks Dave. I just put some long days on my bike and these pegs are the best!

Very good write up Hobie! Very timely too, I have to replace my chain too. My DID is getting kinked at around 20K miles. I need to consider getting an oiler for longer chain life. Instead of pushing the pin out, last time I just used my 4" grinder to cut right through a links side plates. Just like butter. Oh and lots of good sparks. I have my original stock rear sprocket somewhere that was on the bike for 20K, and I have the current AFAM steel sprocket that was on for 20K. They don't look too worn. Joe, don't you advise using them again?

Here is a cool one that an Iron Butt rider designed. Too bad he is sold out. He just put these on the market. www.fuzeblocks.com

Riceburner, you have a PM on PCll.

Just curious, what year is the PCll from? Will it work on my '99?

Whoops, that reminds me why I went with +2.5in, I had my VFR bars on top of Genmar risers. But even then my lines were too long.

+1 I have VFR bars and got my Galfer lines at CycleBrakes too. I will have to look, but I think I got +2.5. Way too long. Remember, these things aren't that flexible. 1-1.5" should be about right.

Boy it is easy to move those carriers. I used a rubber mallet and a 3/4" dowel. I gingerly moved the rotor back into place by tapping on carrier arms as needed. I will have to describe it better later. Got the wow down to .0025in at the worst area. I did take it for a ride tonight and it seems better. The road was wet so it was kind of hard to tell if I was locking up the wheel on hard stops. It is better, not perfect but better. Thanks for the suggestions guys!

Yes this does make sense. Thanks for the suggestion Stan! Whoa, thanks for the link, I did search but did not find this tidbit. I am going to try this. If I did bend the carrier myself (somehow ) then it make sense that I can un-bend it, right. Amazing how weak the carriers are laterally, considering how strong they are radially.

So I should use my rubber mallet near the carrier to tweak it back. I will try that. Oh and I did change my own tire, but that was a while ago and I didn't notice the pulsing in the rotor until recently. But I am sure I could have bumped it somehow.

He does have some good lathes, I will have to ask him, but I think he would have to somehow hold the rotor instead of the carrier. Since the rotor floats on the carrier, it seems like it would move while machining. But maybe while machining it cold it wouldn't move much. The floating on the carrier is probably more for accommodating expansion and contraction in use.

I assume you are serious since I don't see a smiley. And I don't have anything to lose. I have heard of someone using a crescent wrench to tweek a rotor, and I was thinking of using a rubber mallet. Can this really be done? And my brother in law is a machinist, I wonder if machining it flat would work.

Thanks. But, I have had a bad experience buying rotors for my old ZX11 on Ebay. I got warped ones. Thankfully the guy refunded my money then. Not wanting to sound too picky, but I guess I am, I should have said: "Looking for '99XX and up right front brake rotor with gold carrier and in excellent condition (less than .004in runout)" This may be hard to find.

I posted over in the garage about finding I have a bad rotor on the front right of my '99XX. Anyone have a spare rotor they want to sell? My rotor is .193 in thick. I assume if I mix another it should be close to that. Or, anyone have a line on the best price for some Galfer wave rotors?

I recently had my front wheel off as I had gone back to the stock springs in my forks. I lost weight and my gpsuspension modded forks had too stiff of springs. On my test ride in noticed a strong pulsing / shudder in the front. I had not noticed this before, so I assume I must have somehow bent, or dinged my left front brake rotor. I don't know how this happened as I was very careful with the rotors. I had a ZX11 that had similar symptoms that I had to replace rotors on, so I was pretty sure I had a bad rotor. I had a Harbor Freight dial indicator left over from that issue a few years back. I fashioned up a ghetto bracket to mount the dial indicator. A picture is attached. The runout tolerance in the manual is .012in. The left rotor measures at .002in, but the right had a big .020in wave. And both rotors are .193in thick, the limit is .16in. So my '99XX right front rotor is shot. My first thought is to see if anyone has a spare rotor they would like to sell. I assume either side will work. My next thought is some Galfer wave rotors would be nice too. Any suggestions?

PM sent on fender.

I thought someone stold your Mojo? I am curious if anyone likes it too. I'd pick one up.