Rider99XX

I have a 99 with a PCII, K&N, stock gearing, stock pipes. I put mine on the dyno last week. 20K+ miles on it HP - 131.5 Top speed - 181.00 actual, the speedometer was showing 200mph. I didn't get a torque reading.

I MIGHT be in if the price is VERY good. Any ballpark price????? A WAG??? WAG = wild ass guess :twisted:

I have a set of Tourmaster soft luggage and love them. They stay put at way over 100mph and hold enough for two people for several days. AND...NO BODY RUBS

How much for the kit??

I made my own mount from 3/4 inch aluminum angles and some poprivets. Works great. Takes about 2 minutes to install or remove. Mounts to the gas cap ring. It positions my camera just above the top of the windshield. It may not win any awards for looks but it works and it cost me less than $10 dollars.

I've had a ZG DB for about 3 years now and love it. Mine also came with the plastic spacers 3 years ago. Be very careful while washing around the dash/inner fairing area, DON'T bump upwards on the rear, outer edges of the windshield, bad things can happen to the windshield. Ask me not how I know this :roll: I got it for what I thought was a pretty good deal, $49.95 along with my PC II for $239.00 from a place out in CA.

Well my decell wobble is GONE GONE GONE!!!. That slight buzz through the clip ons is GONE GONE GONE!!! Bike feels new again. The bearing change was well worth the effort!!!!

I just replaced steering head bearings with the All Balls kit. It takes longer to disasemble the front end ( wheel, calipers, forks, horn, breakline clamps etc. etc.) than to replace the bearings. I used a floor jack under the header to support the front and the rear end up on the centerstand. I used a loooonng punch to remove the races. Come in from the bottom for the top race and from the top for the bottom race. Take your time and don't work on just one side of the race, tap a little on one side then do the other side. There are nice wide notches to position the punch in. As for the bottom bearing on the stem, I used a one inch wide chisel and LIGHTLY taped it under the bottom of the bearing. Once it moves once it will come off pretty easy from there. The seal will be toast, but then again you ARE replacing the seals, right? I then used the race from the upper bearing and a 12 inch length of 1.25 inch pipe ( perfect fit to the race ) and tapped the bottom bearing on to the stem. Don't forget to put the seal on first!!!! The top bearing is installed the same way. I slid the stem in from the bottom, supported the stem from the bottom then tapped the top bearing on just like the bottom with the old race and the pipe. When I say "tap" I mean just that. Don't beat the hell out of it. Remember the frame is aluminum and you CAN damage it :shock: Tap a little, LOOK a lot!!

Hey Kenny, just whistle while you ride :twisted: Anne and I are going to the Gap in sept. You should go with us.

I ordered a set of steering head bearings from BikeBandit.com. I ordered them on 7/13 and received them on 7/18. Not too bad considering USPS delivered them. I also got emails confirming my order and emails tracking my order. I've had bad experiences having USPS deliver things (just ask bajjer9) but they came thru this time. I'd order from them again.

Seems like anything inside the tire with enough weight to balance the tire, at 160+ mph could cause problems. Just a thought. BUT! Hopefully the people at Innovative Balancing did their research.

Here is the link to the ceramic beads used for balancing your tires. http://www.innovativebalancing.com/ The site doesn't list mc tires on the tire size list but makes reference to the amount of beads you need to use elsewhere in the site. It looks pretty interesting.

Has anyone tried the ceramic beads for balancing their tires? I think the company is Innovative Balancing or something like that. According to them you'll never need external balancing again. The price is really inexpensive too, like $1.99 a bag and you only need a bag or two per tire depending on tire size plus you can install them yourself through the valvestem. Anyone? Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?

I may be missing something here but what holds the oil in if the damping rod is out? What plugs the hole in the bottom?

I just replaced the seals on mine. The damping rod will hold some oil. You need to pump the damping rod several times to remove the oil inside it. Then pump the rod several times after you replace the oil to remove the air inside the damping rod.

Damn, James, I had my box turtle and duct tape ready to send you something:twisted: As for financing Charles' XX...hmmm, I'm sure that two enterprising riders like ourselves can come up with a way to con I, I, I mean acquire his XX. I figure all we need to do is go over to Monroeville and get the pony ride outside that gas station and take it over to him. I'm quite sure he'd swap the XX for that. Maybe leave him a roll of quarters. I have an old box fan he can plug in and blow on him so he would feel like he's actually going somewhere. He would have to make his own varoom varoom sounds. :gotgas: :gotgas: :gotgas: What do you think?

Now James, if you don't know your own hose size...well...then you must be spending way too much time on your XX. :twisted:

Hey James, I can MAIL you some Water Wetter if you need some :twisted: Just buy Charles' XX and you'd have a digital guage. I haven't forgot about the trailer pics, just been busy busy busy, will try to get them to you this weekend.

Well I left the fork alone overnight. This morning I tried one more time to slide the seal out. Two tugs and out it popped. I took my time putting it back together. Will road test it today to see if holds.

Sounds like a delicate operation. Thanks.

Call me stupid or what ever, it probably all fits. But I NEED HELP so I'm turning to the largest group of XX experts known to man. Here is my problem; While installing my new fork seals I left out the back up ring, the ring that goes under the seal and on top of the bushing on the right fork. Now I cannot get the seal back out. The first one went great, no problems at all. I just had a massive brain fart on the second one, more than likely I just got in a hurry. How can I get the seal out????????????????????????

My XX developed a very slight vibe/buzzy feeling in the right grip and left footpeg between 40/50 mph. Doesn't seem to be rpm related. I checked everything that could be tightened, everything was tight. I know I need steering head bearings, those are on order. New fork seals and new fork oil goes in tomarrow. The seals on the front wheel are somewhat dry rotted so a bearing and seal job are in the near future. There is no descernable side to side movement in the front wheel nor is there any tight/rough spots when you spin the wheel. So to comfort my feeble mind I'm going to install new bearings. Maybe that will help but if it doesn't it's no big deal, the vibe is hardly noticeable.

Why didn't I think of that :roll: Thanks mqqn.

I know some guys in here use a piece of PVC pipe to install their fork seals. Question is what size pipe should I use. I figured I'd ask before I go and buy the wrong size. Also, how much fork oil goes back in and is there any thing I need to do when I pour the oil in?

Thanks guys. Thats what I needed to know.