twodealdrive

sale is pending on the seat plus I have a G&L with backrest already. thanks.

this seat is in good condition, but not perfect. One small scratch on top that I couldn't get to photograph clearly and a small chip that is touched up. You can feel the scratch with your fingernail and you have to move around a bit to see it. It's about 2 inches long. The other spot is a chip from a boot. I have a nickel in the photo for comparison, the black touchup doesn't match perfectly. The touch up spot is on the left side toward the front by the padded seat. In the next to last bottom photo, where you see the reflection of my arm, follow the reflection to the edge by the seat and that's where the chip is located. The seat has no rips or tears and the key is included to lock the lid. Very handy feature, locking trunk space. I'll be at Indy for the MotoGP race if you wanna save shipping cost. Otherwise shipping will be actual cost. Thanks for looking.

thanks for the update Vern on when they were purchased they are sold

I'm taking my XX back to stock, so I have to part with these great sounding MIG slipons. I've never heard any other pipe sound like these. I would guess they about 12 years old. I got them when I bought a '99 XX from Vern (xrated) and kept them when I bought an '01 XX from Josh (JB4XX). I know the don't make these anymore, they're as light as a feather, stainless steel and carbon fiber. Here's what's included; 2 carbon fiber slipons, in very good condition. There are a few spots that need some clearcoat, I showed the biggest piece with a quarter so you could gauge the size. They need a nice coat of clear powdercoat, that was my plan if I had decided to keep them. There's also a nick on the bottom side that you don't see unless you lay on the ground. I show that in the pics too. the midpipe slipons have always been polished on a regular basis and I hope you can tell by the photos. You'll see a mark on one of the pipes but that isn't seen, it's on the inside of the rear foot peg. One small dent that is visible is from a gas station pump curb, the kind with the painted metal band. I was just sick about it but it turned out to not be as bad I thought. I polished it up and it's not really noticeable unless you know it's there. The small dent is on the right/clutch side and down pretty low. When the bike is on the sidestand, you have to be a few feet away or crouch down to see it. It doesn't effect performance. I have all the hardware, springs and brackets for mounting them on your XX. One of the original bracket-to-slipon bolts fell off but I have a suitable replacement. Otherwise it's the hardware that I've had since I got the MIG's. To make these pipes work, you have to remove a little of the rear cowl so the bracket can fit to the subframe. They're pretty easy to figure out for mounting but if you have any questions, I can help, just say the word. If you want to make an offer, just PM me. Shipping will be exactly what it costs from my zip code to yours. thanks. here's what they look like on an XX

power commander 1999-2001 XX

this unit is used but came off my running 2001 XX and is working fine. Everything, wires, connectors, PC unit itself, all in excellent, working condition. The software disc is included along with the USB cable and 9v battery connector. I've collected a few maps and put those on a CD, the registration card is inside as well and it all ships in original box. The model number is 102-410. This power commander is for use on 1999-2001 models. I'm returning the bike to stock to sell this fall or next spring, that's why I'm getting rid of the power commander. I'd rather sell it to someone here instead of doing the ebay thing. $175 plus shipping, which will be actual $ to your zip code. Shouldn't be much, it's a pretty light and small box. PM me if you have any questions. Here's some info from the Dynojet site; USB (Universal Serial Bus) port provides an instant, problem-free way to connect your Power Commander to a computer Provides precise information for fine-tuning a fuel-injected motorcycle when changing an air filter, installing a new exhaust system or doing additional engine performance modifications Each unit includes a built-in microprocessor and a specific map designed to improve engine performance over stock; Dynojet continuously maps new calibrations for each bike for downloading at their web site . If you do not have a computer, you can change the settings with three touch buttons on the faceplate OEM-style wiring connectors with improved harness protection are supplied; no wiring modifications required Includes easy-to-follow instructions Direct injector control technology manages the fuel curve on models that do not have the sensors to monitor fuel adjustment Features an expansion port for future add-on modules from Dynojet Software is compatible with Windows 98se/ME/2000/XP; opens all maps with .djm extension USB special cable and 9V battery power adapter are included Made in the U.S.A.

I have a hacked iPhone running a t-mobile sim card, works great. The software is free to download and use and it's both windows and mac compatible. You can still buy or get free apps from iTunes. I have a 2g 8gb and the $275 price for a 3g 8gb is good. The 2g 8gb go for close to that much on ebay if they're clean and have all the parts.

nice touch slipping in the shocker in the last photo with the cams not being 180 out (I too somehow know about this) it seems like a wiring harness issue with the different years but that's guess. Good luck, hope you get it soon.

I've never used the BT-57's but I have the BT-021 on the rear and a race take-off BT-002 on the front and love the feel. I've got over 1k on the rear and I can't even tell that it's worn. I love the grip, feedback, the are very confidence inspiring, so far so good with the 'stones.

my 01 r/r just did that, no burnt/discolored anything. But all the tests in the manual pointed to the r/r. I got one off ebay for $40. There's an 2001 R1 r/r on ebay now for $49 plus shipping. What year is yours good luck

I found one on eBlop but I thought I'd do business from a board member if they have an R1 r/r they wanna get rid of. It's for an 01, I'm not sure which year R1 r/r is best, I've seen 99-2001 in my searches on the site. They all have to be pretty close. FYI, the safety feature in the HID ballast makes it nice when the r/r dies, you don't have to pull the headlight fuse. I made it almost 90 miles before complete battery death. I was 2 miles from home, so not bad. Coulda been worse.

if there was such a book in existence, and I'm not saying there is for sure, I bet it would say you have to loosen the radiator mount bolts to move it out of the way so you could get to the exhaust header for removal. Then changing an oil pan would be relative easy. And if I were writing this book I'd put this information is chapters 2 and 5.

I'm running the bridgestone bt-002 up front and bt-016 on the back and I love them. Just got back from Deal's Gap NC and I had plenty of grip, never felt a slip and we had some 75 degree days and some 55 degree days. I adjusted the air pressure to suit the different temps and it was a rock solid ride. I've put over 3k on the front and it's like it never wears out. Rears are a different story but so far, 3k in it's looking good. I don't touch knees but I'm edge to edge on the tires and like them a lot. I tried the Michelin Pilot Power 2ct on the front and Pilot Road on the back and didn't care for them. Lots of movin' around at an aggressive pace, nothin' serious but still a little unnerving and didn't help the confidence much.

I've got one with a burned #4 rod bearing, not sure if that meets your needs or not

well, it's good to know mine aren't the only ones. Powdercoat sounds like the way to go.

thanks for the info on the powdercoat, that might be a possibility. I'm not sure why it's cracking, I've tried a few different products trying to condition the MIGs but it didn't seem to help much.

I've got the MIG highmounts in black and the clearcoat is cracked and flaking off in in one spot. I've got a spot about the size of a quarter that is bare down to the carbon weave. Anybody else having issues like this? Any solutions or possible ideas floating around? Spray on some clearcoat? How 'bout a clear powdercoat? Do they make that? I need to do something about it pretty soon. Thanks for the help.

I always checked it with me sitting on the bike and checking the play with an old ski pole I had. It's not very accurate as far as a measurement but more of a feel. When I was in NC this year I was talking with Mike Wheeler about it and he said he always checked chain slackness with the rider on the bike. He said he preferred a little loose to just right. I've never really heard anybody else talk about it but I think Wheeler is a good mechanic, so I'm going to keep doing what I'm doing. It's been good so far. I also do a good cleaning every 1k miles or so, kerosene, toothbrush and clean till the rag is not showing any grease.

I just bought some new Versah pads from a place that was going out of business. The book said '99 and before all the pads were the same, after '99 the rear pads were thicker.

sorry for the confusion, it's the cover that seals the cam chain around the crankshaft. It's on the clutch side and the round disc you unscrewed to check the timing marks, there's 6 or 8 8mm bolts holding it on. Take that off and you can see the cct pushing on the cam chain guide and also see the amount of slack when you roll the engine back counter clockwise. When you get the greatest amount of slack, pull the pin on your new cct. Or try it with the old one and see what that does.

yes, it does run and I too found out first hand. Bunbun, everybody's given you great advice, as usual around here, but here's what I did when I re-installed my new cct. CBRxxquad is right, take up the slack before you release the new cct. Roll the engine over clockwise with the lower cover off, then watch the cam chain and roll it counter clockwise and you'll see the slack at the guide on the left. (toward back on engine) Pull the pin on the cct when it has the most slack in the chain. I hope that explanation makes sense.

that's the one think I thought of right away too was mounting a 170 to an XX rim. You always hear talk of mounting a 190 but never the other way. Maybe I'll measure a 170 & 180 at a local shop and see what widths I come up with on unmounted tires. thanks

I'd only consider it to quicken the steering or fall into a turn. Maybe it's a totally stupid idea but I'm just thinking and looking for comments, especially someone whose done it.

PM sent

what about taking off another rod bearing cap and looking at the color of that bearing. Would that get me close in buying a new set? All the other main bearings looke good, rod big end too, and the journal of #3 has no scoring, scorching and discoloration. Can I clean things up, blow things out with compressed air and be good with just replacing the #3 bearings?