MileHi

I have a little over 2000 miles on mine... Zero stretch so far. Mine's the gold color.

Dude... no need to post the same questions in two seperate threads... I'm old and senile enough that I thought I was losing what little mind I have left! Check out my response in the group buy thread... Oh, and you will want the units with the longer leads... That gives you more mounting options.

What do you want??? Bling or more light??? The higher the Kelvin temperature the less light ( and more bluish to purplish) the light. If you're after "more" light then look for a bulb that produces between 4000°K and 6000°K. Anything greater than 5000°K shifts from white to blue. Some don't like to replace their hi beam as they "lose" the ability to flash their hi. I have found that the HID lo bam has reduced the need and that initial flash (from the ignitor) when I hit the hi beam suffuices... YMMV

Good choice John... The short leads really present a problem whne the ballasts don't fit behind the instrument cluster!

I got some JSMs off of Ebay... The leads are only about 15 inches long.

Not the case with the 'Bird... It's like the headlight modules was designed for HIDs... Not so the interior of the cowl... :roll: I just spent the better part (well, on and off) of the past two days trying to find a place for my ballasts. I think that if I had to do it again... I'd get the HIDs with the longer wires. My shorter ones really limited where the ballasts could go.

Add me to the list... Fram filters on my old Buell S1 and a couple of friend's Harleys... I know... I know... (I got rid of the paint shaker!) Fired the H-Ds up and literally BLEW the oil lines off of the cases... Mine stayed on, but there was a high pressure spray from most of the oil line fittings. That cured me!

+1 and the NAPA Gold 1365.

Cossi, that price is about right... I did a bit of searching last year when I got mine for about that price.

I use it in all my bikes... Works great... 'Course so does M1 and other synths... My old Bandit seemed to shift smoother with it.

+1

Sure will... I'm just using left over motor oil currently. Pablo's instructions are some the most complete that I've ever seen! And I noticed that he now has the option of a setup that doesn't require the magnet and pickup... Cool Beans!

Nope... I have a Pro-Oiler though... Works great.

Try Checker/Kragen/Autozone/NAPA...

Modifying the Buell pegs is quite easy... You just have to grind 'em down to make them fit. And slips a sleeve in them so the stock Honda pin doesn't rattle around. As for the bars, you could try and find a set from a 2002 or later VFR. A lot of guys have had good luck with those. Damn... three responses... bam bam bam...

Interesting and timely post... This morning I was playing around with the ergos on my 'Bird. I have noticed that on long rides I was getting a major pain between my righr shoulder and my neck... Just on that side. I've installed the Buell pegs and that took care of my lower body, but I was still having som problems with my torso. I've rotated the helibars about 3/4 of an inch forward from where they were originally installed and that helped tremendously. I then spent a fair amount of time riding the same sections of road with the Givi screen and then the Airblade DB. The Givi gives me a better air flow for my current ergos. Anyone wanna buy a brand new Airblade??? :oops: I also decided that rather than buy new jackets (I don't need a kidney belt!) I have unretired the mountain bike and will start riding it in the mornings again... Well I needed to get back in shape anyway...

Helped a buddy with his "B" Avon rear on his FJR... Used my 20" tire irons too... The B carcass is designed for the heavyweight ST bikes... FJR, BMW and (I think) Honda ST... The B is substantially stiffer than the regular model... We looked like the Three freakin' Stooges trying to mount that beast Nyuk... Nyuk... Nyuk...

The FJRs use a "B" carcass rear tire... That somabitch has a REAL stiff sidewall...

This was the Harley P/N that I used for the pair... Buell rider pegs N0006.1AD

From a BMW dealer... the part numbers are 32721458395 & 32721458396. The left and right grips are sold seperately.

Can't help ya much... I only have about 600 miles on mine. I'm just getting used to them.

There are two "apparent" problems with the Dexcool. It doesn't mix well with the green stuff and requires a thorough flush. The two types of anit-freeze react and can produce solids that can clog the cooling system. Air pockets are another problem with the stuff. The Dexcool doesn't handle air in the cooling system very well. There are a lot of complaints from GM owners about the Dexcool eating away at intake maifold gaskets allowing contamination of the oil and of the coolant. It also seems that the general consensus is to only run Dexcool in engines (ie. GM) that came from the factory with it. Chrysler recommends that it NOT be used in thier products.

I've tried a number of different LED bulbs on the 'Bird... The wide angle helps, but they are still somewhat directional and not much light get to the reflector. So instead of the whole turn signal/brake lense lighting up, you get a rather small (but very bright) spot that is hard to see. Oh, and those are the exact LEDs (ie. same site) that I've tried.

not to get too personal, but what weight are you and your front springs? i'm 220 and have a combined 1.05 set of Race Tech springs up front. Oh yeh, what weight fork oil are you running as well? tia Similar dude... right now I flutuate between 210 and 220... It's the 1.0 kg/mm springs and I still have the stock/OEM fork oil and valving. AFAIK, the front end doesn't dive nearly as bad as it did with the stock springs. I have a permenantly attached tie wrap on the leftt fork leg so I can check it out whenever I want/need to. I do plan ofn having the fork valving done a some point (hell, I already have the valving kit), but will pobalby happen after I get moved to Boise.

When I installed the SuperBrace I still had the stock suspension and a very worn front tire. It felt like it frimedup the front end, but there were too many other variables to give you a definite yes or no. With the stock fork spings and my fat ass, panic/hard braking could cause the SuperBrace to hit the horn. I've since installed the RaceTech springs and Penske shock that I bought from Don and spooned on a set of Pilot Roads. The 'Bird REALLY handles and rides GREAT! But I really can't say which individual component gave what improvement. I can say that I'm vary happy with the ride/handling now. I plan on taking a decent ride tomorrow to to get a better feel for the ride and to scrub the tires in.