chaserkeywest

Isnt is lovely that 99.9% of the " OH SHIT " noises coming from a Honda Blackbird are CCT or Clutch Basket Rattle?

Ya I go along with the Sea Foam{ or fuel injector cleaner} idea, cant hurt and there could be some H2O or a little Crud in the fuel system. Also if that is the OEM chain and of course it probably is and the bike has been parked alot, you could have a few tight spots. Lube it up and the lumps will go away in a few miles. Run the mother and see if it clears up!

Corrosion Block or Bosheild are two very good lubes sold in marine stores. (removes corrosion and lubes at same time. Spray in key hole and slide bars and hinges. Do it once every month and use it on switch gear,bag locks and hinges anything elso thats supposed to move

Silicone sealer will come off no problem, alchol will break it down easily. GOOP is a better choice for making sure they stay inplace, although a little harder to remove. What ever you do, clean nuts,threads and grease before you close them up so you dont get a nasty surprise when 2 years later you pull the caps.

Yep! just cut it off, I did that and decided if I was bothered by it I would just weld on a new on in different location but, I have gotten used to not having a tab.

The BT 20's are closer to the BT 57' , designed to be good traction with higher mileage. The 10's,12, 14s are sticker sport tires, but will get less mileage regardless of how you use them. I would use the 20's for touring/comuting. I have used in the past with good results a BT 20 rear and BT14 front. From what you discribe you ""need "out of the tire, the 12 isnt a wise option as is a sport/track day/warm weather tire. If you put a 12 rear on now, you may need two new tires when the front 57 is gone. Again ...put a BT20 on the rear, you will be happy with it for 5-6000 miles instead of 3500 miles out of a 12/14 rear

Had a bunch of BT20's also Bt 14's great tires. The 20's are good choice for Bird if you are not into butting your Knee down alot but, want more miles out of them. The 14's are sportier but, you wont get as many miles before there cooked.

I have the same bars that Venus 97 has, except mine are all the way up. Meaning that the bottom of the bars are just below flush with the collers, so If you look at V97's photos you can see that they can come up several inches, if you make the other changes, cables,hoses and screen shave. You can bring the bars lots closer by rotating the collars aft and or swinging the bars aft. Like I said I had to shave the side pieces on the stock screen with a Dremmel to get them all the way up but, by re-routing the throttle cable I still used the shock cable. Of course I can push them down to clipon level in 3 mins. if I want but, I dont want! I used the stock screen with a Laminar Lip added after trying a Zero Gravity Tour for a few weeks, I have less buffeting with the Laminar Lip. I looked at the Varobars and they are really nice stuff but, offer less adjustment, they are very popular in Europe but Converibars are not know in Europe ...much

I have them too, for about 1 1/2 years, wouldnt leave home without them! Dont have photo's, sorry but I had to shave the bottom of the stock screen to get them to the full 3+ inches over stock that I wanted. You dont have to go that far ofcourse to get 2 1/2 or more, but you do need the Xtra hoses. I had Helibars, these offer much more adjustment up or back.

I bought 3 horns from JC Whitney for the Ducati and Bird, had the same on my Bandit. You can find it "SUPER BLASTER" or something like that, looks like OEM but bigger and you will have to monkey around with the brackets but it a easy swap and very loud ! It sounds like auto/truck horn and not the moped tweet of the OEM.

Had the same issue with clock then it was FI light coming on..... Check the search section for the "evil corroded plug end " that those of us that have a 2000 have had to deal with. It maybe just a dirty connection, pull the fuse and polish it up, spray some corrosion Block on it but, if this continues you will be pulling the tail section and locating the taped up ball on the end of the wiring harness. You will see that a multi pin plug is all green with crud, it I am told was Honda's way of pluging in to check the bike before shipping but, they didnt do a good job of closing off the plug end resulting in corrosion problems later. This is not a big deal but it does take some time

I used it for one oil change and didn't like the shifting. It was awhile ago, maybe I'll try it again. :icon_think: Pete I have used Moble 1 15/50 car oil in the last two bikes including the bird. I ran a comp/leak down on my Bandit after 25000 and it was 150lbs even on all 4 cyl. Both bikes shifted beautifully. I ran the same Mobile 1 in my air boat engine/ same results great, no wear.

Best bang for the buck...Ventura rack/back system have one for Ducati Monster. My Bird has Corbin Beetle bags with those and a Wolfman tailbag I'm good for 5 days before Laundry Mat. Beetle bags are $1100 so thats not the cheap way out but the Ventura is a supper system that with two bags carries lots of stuff and when you remove the trip bags your only left with a small rear rack that is handy and not unattractive.

I motion John increase price to net a minimum $5.00 profit on CCT's. Do I hear a 2nd? You bet...maybe more for his trouble! WTF

YEP!